brake shoe adjusters

ralph · Post by **ralph** » 25 Oct 2004, 15:48

Morning, I'm looking for advice on Girling drum brake adjusters.
When replacing brake shoes and cylinders four weeks ago, I reassembled the brakes without the adjuster spring on one side.
It no longer fitted very well, and I rekoned the flimsy metal arm would fall off the adjuster rod and jam up the mechanism if I put it back on.
Now, the brake pedal travel is getting longer, as is the handbrake travel.
I'll be taking it apart tonight, but just so I know, does the adjuster rod wind itself back in if the metal arm (which fits on the end of a spring) is not there?

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 25 Oct 2004, 16:58

Ralph
If they are the sort where there is a ratchet that screws itself along a rod, propelled by a spring pawl, then if you have left the pawl out, it will slowly unadjust itself.
I would categorically say that it is not a good idea at all to leave bits out of a brake assembly, or not to cure all faults as found! [V]

ralph · Post by **ralph** » 25 Oct 2004, 18:25

Yes, that's the one Mike. Thanks for the advice.

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 25 Oct 2004, 21:42

The self adjusters are a bit poor, to say the least. I adjust mine manually every six months or so by removing one of the wheel bolts and winding the adjuster out with the tip of a long screwdriver.
This gives an excellent handbrake, and improves the footbrake feel immensely, much better than the self (non) adjusters ever manage.
Takes about 10 minutes a side.

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 25 Oct 2004, 22:13

Good idea, Harry. I do this after I have put drums on, as well, just in case the S/A has not tightened it up enough.

bbrucez · Post by **bbrucez** » 26 Oct 2004, 13:25

I put mine back unadjusted and of course pedal travel & handbrake were unacceptable. I toyed with the idea of winding the adjustors along with a screwdriver through a bolt hole (had to rack my brains to remember layout - no chance if I hadn't seen it open) but after about a week, the self adjustors did their job and saved me one.

bpwood · Post by **bpwood** » 28 Oct 2004, 23:57

Handbrake on my 98 Xsara is a bit slack - the "Arry B" method sounds good to me, any more details please? If I could possibly do it wrong, I will!
Thanks, Paul.

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 29 Oct 2004, 00:57

Xsara hand brake cable can be tightend from inside the car with out undoing all the center console. You take out the rear ash tray then undo the screw / bolts in the viod. The remove the hand brake lever cover the 2 screws that hold the hand brake cover on lift forward and up about 6 inches and you can get a 13mm open ended spanner on the single adjuster nut.

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 29 Oct 2004, 04:30

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stuart McB</i>

Xsara hand brake cable can be tightend from inside the car with out undoing all the center console. You take out the rear ash tray then undo the screw / bolts in the viod. The remove the hand brake lever cover the 2 screws that hold the hand brake cover on lift forward and up about 6 inches and you can get a 13mm open ended spanner on the single adjuster nut.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ooh, don't do that Stuart. Not before you adjust the shoes properly first or your cable will always be under tension, and one day it'll snap, and you'll lose your rear brakes and the pedal will be all over the place. If you adjust the shoes at the wheel, the brake cable should need very infrequent attention, and the handbrake will be fully on after 3-4 clicks.
Or course, if you really do have a slack cable after adjusting the rear shoes, your method is exactly right! [:D]

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 29 Oct 2004, 04:37

How to adjust the rear drum brakes with a screwdriver through the wheel bolt hole:
<ul><li>Safely chock front wheels </li>
<li>Remove a rear wheel nut </li>
<li>Jack up that wheel</li>
<li>Release handbrake</li>
<li>Rotate wheel so you can see the adjuster wheel through the hole (torch needed)</li>
<li>Using a thin, stiff screwdriver wind the adjuster open by pushing on the flat side of the self adjuster teeth (you'll know what I mean when you see it). You're trying to expose more thread by doing this </li>
<li>Spin the wheel to make sure it rotates OK</li>
<li>Repeat until the shoes are lightly rubbing the drum</li>
<li>Put the wheel nut back in</li>
<li>Lower car to ground</li>
<li>Repeat on the other side </li></ul>
Followed by:
<ul> <li>Drive car, and marvel at how good the back brakes are </li>
<li>Remind self to get around to stripping and re-greasing the front calipers, as they're now embarassed by how good the backs are.... [:D] </li> </ul>

bpwood · Post by **bpwood** » 02 Nov 2004, 23:27

Thanks Harry, very clear instructions - just the ticket! Will give it a go.
Paul.