I want to be able to adjust my camber - ZX

DomF9 · Post by **DomF9** » 15 Oct 2004, 23:40

Hi All
I've managed to test-raise the ride height of my ZX by the 3 inches I need. However, now found that the camber is out - ie the tops of the wheels are further out than the bottoms.
Is there a way of making the camber adjustable on this?
Thanks
Dom

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 15 Oct 2004, 23:52

As far as I know - camber, castor and axle inclination are not adjustable. Only toe-setting is. I did have a car years ago where the upper suspension arm could be adjusted with shims on the mounting bolts.

DomF9 · Post by **DomF9** » 15 Oct 2004, 23:56

Ta John
Yes I know they're not adjustable. I need to modify it, just trying to find out How?

oscarloco · Post by **oscarloco** » 16 Oct 2004, 00:22

There are some eccentric bolts called "camber kits" that let you adjust the camber to some degree. As far as I know, they can be fitted only to the front wheels.
Another option is to look for some competition pieces. There are some kits that replace the top shock absorber mounts with a slotted plate that can give you up to 4 degrees negative camber.

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 16 Oct 2004, 00:47

Silly to ask, but why do you want to raise your ZX by 3 inches? My curiosity is getting the better of me.

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 16 Oct 2004, 02:03

Interestingly my new tyres on the front of my ZX have worn the hairs off the outside & middle of both tyres but not the inside edges.

DomF9 · Post by **DomF9** » 16 Oct 2004, 03:01

Thanks for the comments chaps
Oscar, I will look into those. Thanks.
Stuart, I'm trying to turn a ZX into a replica of the ZX Rally Raid. First start is to raise the ride height by 3 to 4 inches hence the initial question. Sadly, this is the bit I thought would be the easiest! Having the rear wing handmade was actually far simpler!
Ross,
....HAIRS? ! How new are YOUR tyres? !

CommY · Post by **CommY** » 16 Oct 2004, 06:31

If the front strut set-up is similar and unadjustable as the Alfa Sud/33 there are a couple of tricks.
Depending on how the strut is attached to the hub could it be possible to elongate the holes for any of the fixing bolts (using one unelongated hole as a pivot).
If the rear is a stub axle set-up shims can be inserted to adjust rear camber.

DomF9 · Post by **DomF9** » 16 Oct 2004, 08:14

CommY
The front struts locate into a C-clamp at the top of the hub assy, and so there is no lateral movement allowed. Talking to my co-conspirator, he is now thinking of welding an extension on the inboard end of the mini-plate the lower balljoint sits on, thus enabling outboard repositioning (ie, extending the lower wishbone, so to speak).
The rear is a separate subframe assy, so we're just going to insert 3-inch alloy blocks between the chassis and the subframe rubber mounts, similar to what you suggest, which will raise the ride height. Ironically, it's the front suspension that's giving me a headache.
Thanks
Dom

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 16 Oct 2004, 12:27

Thats probably because the actual Rally-Raid ZX's had a much closer resemblance to an F1 chassis than to your ZX!
//NiSk

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 16 Oct 2004, 13:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DomF9

Hi All
However, now found that the camber is out - ie the tops of the wheels are further out than the bottoms.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dom
Is that not correct? Surely the wheels should lean out at the top - that is the camber angle, which is present so that the steering axis and a vertical centre line through the tyre intersect where the tyre contacts the road.
If the camber is incorrect, something is usually bent!

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 16 Oct 2004, 14:17

Up to the early 70's cars generally had positive camber which meant that the topsof the wheels were further apart. Around then people started experimenting with negative camber which produced a more macho look and the favorite way of achieb=ving it was to pull the strut tops together on a Ford Escrot. Since then negative camber seems to rule and I believe it is one of the components of the 'Negative Scrub Geometry' which is a feature of most modern designs.
So Dom - there is one way of changeing the camber angle - bent the bodyshell in the area of the suspension turret. The other way if there is room would be to elongate the top mount bolt holes but if this was done I would suggest that a plate was welded on top with the correct size holes in it to prevent any possibility of movement.
The other way would be to extend the bottom ball joint either on the joint itself or the wishbone but again be careful about elongated holes and welding in this area.
Jeremy

DomF9 · Post by **DomF9** » 16 Oct 2004, 15:14

Mike, it probably did have some sort of - or + camber originally, but as we've raised the car so the lower wishbone is now at more of a steeper angle and I suspect the lower balljoint travel is not permitting the hub to sit right. As a result the wheel is visibly pronounced outwards at the top. It msy have had a little camber previously, but now it's a lot.
Jeremy, that's looking like the plan now but what are your worries about elongated holes and welding in that area? Obviously it needs to be solid with no movement, is there another reason?
Dom

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 16 Oct 2004, 16:33

Is this thing actually going to run, if it is I think you will have bigger problems waiting for you, those being the drive shafts and the steering.
Running the shafts that far out of vertical alignment will greatly reduce the maximum horizontal angle of the outer joint, when the suspension unloads the joints will likely as not reach their physical limit and self destruct, especially so when this happens while there is a large amount of lock on, I think you can at least expect to experience horriffic knocking and juddering.
The steering wont be a problem while its in the straight ahead position but when its not, the increased vertical angle of the trackrod will exaggerate changes in the steering angle of the wheel as suspension movements deflect it, giving the front end more of a will of its own.
Dave

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 16 Oct 2004, 17:00

My only concern is that bolts may move in elongated holes, and I wouldn't rely on just being tight to prevent movement. generally the holes in things like bottom swivels are tight fits.
Dave - I agree driving it should at least be interesting and probably quite terrifying.
Cant the desired result be achieved by lowering the subframe on blocks and midifying the strut tops by lowering them too?
jeremy