Hello all.
Could anyone tell me how tight should the 8mm nut rear of rear height corrector be?, i have been oiling around that general vacinity due to just buying the vehicle and it standing for a while (it was stuck), and found after pulling off the rubber dust sheild i could turn the nut by hand, so reaching for spanner i promptly tightend it up, rear suspension not working!!, so slackened it off again up and down we go allbeit at a different normal ride height than before (sligtly lower),i think it may have been a tad heigh before so perhaps normal reaily is normal now, just a little concerned that the blighter might fall off and god only knows what the consequences of that may be, hence the question how tight should it be?.
Thanks in advance.
Xantia rear height corrector
Moderator: RichardW
Thanks for response.
I deffinately mean the 8mm nut rear of corrector unit, it is situated behind the round rubber dust shield and it retains a large metal disc, it appears to go through the unit and locks the corrector arm if too tight , or so i believe, i think thats why the vehicle will not move if its too tight, it does seem to be working correctly now but was just a little concerned as its not very tight and may come off!.
I deffinately mean the 8mm nut rear of corrector unit, it is situated behind the round rubber dust shield and it retains a large metal disc, it appears to go through the unit and locks the corrector arm if too tight , or so i believe, i think thats why the vehicle will not move if its too tight, it does seem to be working correctly now but was just a little concerned as its not very tight and may come off!.
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uhn113x
- Posts: 1161
- Joined: 06 Jan 2004, 22:06
- Location: Near Leeds, United Kingdom
- My Cars: 1981 Dyane - on road all year round.
1982 GSA Pallas - on road April - September.
1997 ZX 1.9D Dimension. - x 1
If it is the one that you can see when you remove the plastic cover on the opposite side to the linkage, it should <b>definitely</b> be tight!
It holds the diaphragm on to the valve spool, and if loose, will eventually start to leak.
It sounds as if there may be something else wrong with the HC - maybe needs a strip and clean.
It holds the diaphragm on to the valve spool, and if loose, will eventually start to leak.
It sounds as if there may be something else wrong with the HC - maybe needs a strip and clean.
Thanks,
That definately sounds like the one i am talking about, will have to tighten it up, any ideas as to why the rear suspension fails to work when its tight?, as it is at the moment everything is fine ,working correctly, it could be that when i tightened it last time the corrector arm turned a little throwing it out.
I will have a look weather permitting!!.
That definately sounds like the one i am talking about, will have to tighten it up, any ideas as to why the rear suspension fails to work when its tight?, as it is at the moment everything is fine ,working correctly, it could be that when i tightened it last time the corrector arm turned a little throwing it out.
I will have a look weather permitting!!.
I agree that this nut should be tight.
If you think of a 3" long rod, of which 1/2" each end is threaded, then you basically have the piston rod within the HC. It will then be one threaded end with the nut you can see protruding. The inner part of the rod will be grooved to give a sliding hydraulic valve action.
Other end of the rod will have a ball hook fitted under the nut, and this end receives the anti-roll bar position via mechanical linkages.
Now let's assume the nut in question IS in fact tight on the piston rod [8)]
Then it's not the nut, but the piston rod that is turned, and thus the other end with the ballhook also turns.
<font color="red"><i>This will definately cause the HC linkage to lock at some point.</i></font id="red">
- because the ballhook twists within the hooked linkage causing a mechanical lockup of the HC.
BUT : If you can in fact easily unwind the nut, then you are on the route by uhn113x
If you think of a 3" long rod, of which 1/2" each end is threaded, then you basically have the piston rod within the HC. It will then be one threaded end with the nut you can see protruding. The inner part of the rod will be grooved to give a sliding hydraulic valve action.
Other end of the rod will have a ball hook fitted under the nut, and this end receives the anti-roll bar position via mechanical linkages.
Now let's assume the nut in question IS in fact tight on the piston rod [8)]
Then it's not the nut, but the piston rod that is turned, and thus the other end with the ballhook also turns.
<font color="red"><i>This will definately cause the HC linkage to lock at some point.</i></font id="red">
- because the ballhook twists within the hooked linkage causing a mechanical lockup of the HC.
BUT : If you can in fact easily unwind the nut, then you are on the route by uhn113x
Thanks very much all.
Due to it persisting it down last night did'nt have chance to investigate further, however weather permiting it will be top height, axle stands and a quick shimmy underneath to see whats going on (due to a over zelous approach last time and nearly playing xantia power lifting i learnt that axle stands are a must when attempting anything to do with the suspension)!!.
Due to it persisting it down last night did'nt have chance to investigate further, however weather permiting it will be top height, axle stands and a quick shimmy underneath to see whats going on (due to a over zelous approach last time and nearly playing xantia power lifting i learnt that axle stands are a must when attempting anything to do with the suspension)!!.