Xantia Temp 55-65 on long runs
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia Temp 55-65 on long runs
Hi the temp on my new xantia has recently been dropping down to about 55-65 while motorway cruising, is this OK or is the thermostat dubious. Around town it sit's happlily at 90. I know running cold will knack up the mpg.
BTW this si the best car forum I have ever been on 10/10!![:p]
BTW this si the best car forum I have ever been on 10/10!![:p]
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by CommY</i>
Around town it sit's happlily at 90.
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My Xantia clocks 90C whether around town or on the motorway. Only does it rise higher when it's towing up inclines in very hot temperatures.
Around town it sit's happlily at 90.
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My Xantia clocks 90C whether around town or on the motorway. Only does it rise higher when it's towing up inclines in very hot temperatures.
It's the engine temp - not the radiator temp - that has to stay in 85-90 ish range for any modern engine.
If the engine runs too cold it will not only suffer poor mileage but also wear more.
Since you can actually see the temp come up to 90, during conditions where any engine would run hot, you may rule out problems with the gauge.
I'd then suspect the thermostat itself. Known to stay more or less full open when they wear out, then causing the engine to heat up too slow and run too cold.
If the engine runs too cold it will not only suffer poor mileage but also wear more.
Since you can actually see the temp come up to 90, during conditions where any engine would run hot, you may rule out problems with the gauge.
I'd then suspect the thermostat itself. Known to stay more or less full open when they wear out, then causing the engine to heat up too slow and run too cold.
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- Panjandrum
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Panjandrum I fully understand the logic of your question -
It has to do with the design of the engine and the combustion of fuel. Try have a look on these pages, where all the basics are explained :
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/
You'll find this library overwhelming on the sheer amount of basic technical descriptions found here.
It has to do with the design of the engine and the combustion of fuel. Try have a look on these pages, where all the basics are explained :
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/
You'll find this library overwhelming on the sheer amount of basic technical descriptions found here.
- Panjandrum
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Thanks Anders ...
"The engine runs best when its coolant is about 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). At this temperature:
The combustion chamber is hot enough to completely vaporize the fuel, providing better combustion and reducing emissions.
The oil used to lubricate the engine has a lower viscosity (it is thinner), so the engine parts move more freely and the engine wastes less power moving its own components around.
Metal parts wear less."
Left me still wondering... But I guess the engine and its lubrication are designed to operate at an engineering compromise temperature that balances friction, viscosity and lubricant performance. In the world of lubrication, 20 degrees off design optimum will make a big difference.
Likewise, 20 degrees difference in and around the boiling point of the fuel makes a big difference.
I got sidetracked into wondering why such a small difference relative to the combustion temperature could make a difference in the power produced.
I guess I should stop confusing myself.
PJ
"The engine runs best when its coolant is about 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). At this temperature:
The combustion chamber is hot enough to completely vaporize the fuel, providing better combustion and reducing emissions.
The oil used to lubricate the engine has a lower viscosity (it is thinner), so the engine parts move more freely and the engine wastes less power moving its own components around.
Metal parts wear less."
Left me still wondering... But I guess the engine and its lubrication are designed to operate at an engineering compromise temperature that balances friction, viscosity and lubricant performance. In the world of lubrication, 20 degrees off design optimum will make a big difference.
Likewise, 20 degrees difference in and around the boiling point of the fuel makes a big difference.
I got sidetracked into wondering why such a small difference relative to the combustion temperature could make a difference in the power produced.
I guess I should stop confusing myself.
PJ
Hi mate, just replace the stat, they r £5 from GSF for the genuine part, and are the easiest stat to replace ive ever come across. very acessible.
Only thing is remember to get a new rubber gasket as it doesnt use paper or anything "normal"
mine used to do exactly as yours did, replaced it and all was well. Just made sure when i topped up the coolant that i stick the fan and heater on full blast and left it running for about 20 mins with the bleed nipple and cooleant cap off, toping up whenever more air was purged.
Now it gets to around 85 doing 90 on the m-way in hot weather, sits at 80 for the most part and occasionally drops to 75 when i first get on the m-way. it used to take ages to rise to 75 and would never EVER go past that point
Only thing is remember to get a new rubber gasket as it doesnt use paper or anything "normal"
mine used to do exactly as yours did, replaced it and all was well. Just made sure when i topped up the coolant that i stick the fan and heater on full blast and left it running for about 20 mins with the bleed nipple and cooleant cap off, toping up whenever more air was purged.
Now it gets to around 85 doing 90 on the m-way in hot weather, sits at 80 for the most part and occasionally drops to 75 when i first get on the m-way. it used to take ages to rise to 75 and would never EVER go past that point