Zx Coolant change time

[Jiff Lemon]

With autumn/winter approaching, I'm looking at doing a coolant flush and change.
I have so far:
Coolant flush (good old "only available to motor trade" Forte Coolant flush)
5 litres of de-ionised water
Now in the GSF catalogue I'm looking at thermostat and new sealing ring (N17694 and N17624); Am I correct in assuming there's no thermostat gasket?
Also is Antigel (N98070) meant to be diluted or used raw?
Anything I'm missing or any Gotcha's I need to be aware of?
General plan is to drain system using drain tap, remove thermostat and give much reverse flushing. Hopefullt the only hose I'll have to remove is the top one, New jubilee clip on standby and the hose itself looks in good condition.

[arry_b]

You haven't specified the car, but you'll almost certainly need a header tank and need to bleed the system properly afterwards.
Get that wrong, and you'll be getting experience of changing head gaskets shortly afterwards

[Dave Burns]

The sealing ring is the gasket, nothing else required, dilute the antigel with water at 50/50.
As allready advised, pay particular attention to getting the air out afterwards.
Dave

[Jiff Lemon]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by arry_b</i>

You haven't specified the car, but you'll almost certainly need a header tank and need to bleed the system properly afterwards.
Get that wrong, and you'll be getting experience of changing head gaskets shortly afterwards
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Doh! Could of swore I mentioned it was a zx!
Going away to study the Hayes manual with regards to bleeding techniques.

[arry_b]

Easy - header tank made from a pop bottle jammed in the top of the radiator, then undo the bleed caps until no bubbles come out.
As usual, the Haynes makes it seem more difficult than it is.