ZX Braking System / Power Steering Advice

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B_Draper
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ZX Braking System / Power Steering Advice

Postby B_Draper » Thu Jul 04, 2002 2:06 am

Hi All
My '94 ZX 1.9TD has just passed it's MOT* by the skin of it's gear-teeth <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> but the tester has pointed out a few things about the brakes.
The N/S/R flexi hose is apparently badly cracked and needs to be replaced soon - I'll will be doing this job within the next week or so and would appreciate any advice about this i.e. Pit Falls and a comparison to the Haynes Manual! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
I'll also be changing the rear drum shoes at the same time as the drums have been very noisy over the last few months. The MOT tester noted this as well!
It has also been noted there is some dampness around the Power Steering Ram. The MOT took place on a dry day. Is this normal<img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
I have noticed the Power Steering Fluid Resevoir is leaking around the bottom pipe so I wiil be placing jubilee clips? (Loop of metal with a screw incorporated in to it) on to the pipes. Not sure if this would contribute to the dampness around the Power Steering Ram as the entire Off Side of the engine bay is damp because of this. My thinking is the fluid is gradually dripping down to an area near the Ram, but this will be confirmed as soon I can get the car on to some ramps.
To reiterate, I would like some advice about changing the rear drum shoes and the flexi-hose on the N/S/R brake drum. Would it be worthwhile changing the flexi-brake hose on the other side of the car as well<img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
Thanxs in advance for any help!<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
Regards
Ben
*For non-UK readers, an MOT (Ministry of Transport) test is a yearly check on the car's road-worthiness on all cars over 3 years old.
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Jon
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Postby Jon » Thu Jul 04, 2002 2:19 pm

Hi Ben,
First of all, the leaking power steering resevoir, even if you replace the pipe clips they still seem to leak, and when I worked in Part Dept at a Citroen dealer we used to issue quite a few power steering resevoirs for ZX's. It also leaks on my current ZX, despite replacing the snap together pipe clip with a jubilee clip. I have cleaned the outside of the resevoir with brake cleaner to see if I can tell where it leaks from, without sucess so far, there is still a tiny weeping leak from somewhere. I regard this as more annoying than safety critical as it loses very little fluid over time.
With regards to the PAS ram, I've had 3 ZX's, and the ram has always been slightly damp on each car, again without any major leak.
Rear brake hose is fairly easy, you will see at the top of the hose there is a flat bracket and on the other size is a nut (17mm head??)that secures the flexi to the metal pipe. Its important that you get a suitable spannner on this retaining nut, and also hold the flat bracket in place with clamped mole grips before you start to undo the flexi, otherwise the bracket twists round and may damage the metal pipe. The rear brakes are fairly forward, if the cars a 1.9TD it should have the Girling system.A few words of advise, if you are replacing the wheel cylinders, buy a set of rear(arm)brake pipes, they're only about £5 each as the pipe invariably snaps or rounds off where it screws into the wheel cylinder if the rear brakes have not been done for some time. Thats what happened to me, despite using a 10mm brake pipe spanner.
Remove both drums, and dismantle the shoes, springs etc on one side only, refit the new shoes using the undisturbed other side as your guide.Then replace the other side.
Remember that you will need to replace the rear hub nuts, and possibly the dust caps.
Dave Burns will probably be able to advise further on any aspect of the rear brakes.
Jon
Jon Wood
IT Supervisor
GSF t/as Andyspares
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Dave Burns
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Postby Dave Burns » Fri Jul 05, 2002 12:59 am

The 1.9td I'm running has the Bendix system fitted, if the auto adjuster's are doing their stuff and the drum hasn't been off for some time, it more than likely has worn a good bit and produced a deep lip on the inner edge of the drum.
This can make getting the drum off almost impossible, you then need to put a screwdriver through one of the wheel bolt holes, and push the handbrake lever away from the shoe to clear the notch on the lever and at the same time rearward's to contract the shoe's.
You may have to slacken the cable adjuster's at the rear of the handbrake lever (cabin) to get enough travel on the lever in the drum.
I grind any lip off as it makes setting up the brakes much easier, check that the brake cables return fully without sticking as this can hamper a good set up.
Make sure the adjuster ratchet wheel's turn freely with a smear of high melting point grease on the thread's.
Copper grease the shoe contact point's on the backplate and the handbrake lever where it rub's against the shoe.
Good luck
Dave
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B_Draper
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Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2001 6:51 pm
Location: United Kingdom
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Postby B_Draper » Thu Jul 11, 2002 9:24 pm

Hi Chaps
An update to the current situation
After thinking carefully, I decided not to renew my brakes myself as I am not the most competent mechanic (I get very impatient and use my swearing vocabulary up very quickly!) and my life (and other road-users) are worth more than the cost of having new brakes fitted to my car!
I had my rear-drums cleaned, which immediately stopped squealing. Excess dust must have been the cause of the squeal - Hurrah. However the garage noticed the following (how convenient!)
1. Front Disc and pads were several mm below recommended minimum thickness
2. O/S/R wheel cylinder was leaking
3. N/S/R flexi hose was seriously cracked (which I knew)
The garage in question, Stop 'n' Steer wanted £230 to fix/replace the above parts - As you can imagine, I told them where to go. It must be said they were truthful in stating what work needed doing to my car.
A mate recommended a local garage, E.W.S Autos near Dudley, West Mids (I have no trouble recommending them) who charged me £160 for the lot, which I thought was a good price. They also let me get close to the car to inspect the new parts in place which I appreciated. I find in some garages, the following
1. You can't go near your car until the work has been completed
2. You can't be sure they have done everything you have asked or they done everything correctly and by the book!
Cheers, Jon and Dave for your advice, even if I didn't go through with this!
If anybody wants more details on E.W.S Autos, please let me know
Later
Ben
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