Why's my Xsara got the wobbles?
Moderator: RichardW
Why's my Xsara got the wobbles?
My young 1.8i 16v engine wobbles when idling. It makes the whole car wobble, including the gear knob and rear view mirror.
It did it with the OEM plugs and still does it with new set of NGK BR6EK. When you accelerate, the gear knob wobbles and power is noticebaly down until you reach 4000, when it takes off.
Engine mounts are not worn or cracked, so I can't accuse them.
My air filter is looking rather dirty, but surely it can't be that simple?
It did it with the OEM plugs and still does it with new set of NGK BR6EK. When you accelerate, the gear knob wobbles and power is noticebaly down until you reach 4000, when it takes off.
Engine mounts are not worn or cracked, so I can't accuse them.
My air filter is looking rather dirty, but surely it can't be that simple?
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Mine dose this as well. Sitting at traffic lights almost lumpy tick over. The wifes Renault Megane 1.6 Convertible (28k) dose this aswell. I've checked and changed all the usual bits plugs, plug leads. Checked for hose leaks etc and it's not made any difference. Only thing that has improved the 'take off' is some Bocsh super four plugs and some STP fuel additive. The NGK's made it slow as a pig in heels.
Ok, some progress. Changed my new twin electrode NGK plugs for a set of Eyquems provided by a Citroen service agent. Interestingly, they only have a single electrode now, as opposed to the two. I wonder if they were changed for a specific reason? Engine is much stronger now. I don't get that pre 4000rpm lag and the idle has significantly smoothed out. The gear stick still has a little wobble and if you drive with your hand on it, you can feel it moving. I suspect that this is more to do with Citroen's choice of eninge mount bush for this car. This journalist picked it up and commented on it in this article:
http://www.mynrma.com.au/motoring/cars/ ... saug.shtml
I might investgate getting a stiffer lower bush, but won't rush into it.
Thanks Stuart McB for nearly always replying to my posts.
http://www.mynrma.com.au/motoring/cars/ ... saug.shtml
I might investgate getting a stiffer lower bush, but won't rush into it.
Thanks Stuart McB for nearly always replying to my posts.
Ok, the wobbles have developed into full blown Parkinson's. She drives so well, but as soon as you stop at the lights, the engine shivers. Strange thing is that the rev counter doesn't move.
Citroen couldn't find anything wrong with it, but its not right! Nobody would ever buy a car from the showroom if it did this. Anybody got any other suggestions?
Citroen couldn't find anything wrong with it, but its not right! Nobody would ever buy a car from the showroom if it did this. Anybody got any other suggestions?
Could it simply be a "rich" running problem ?
The Lambda sensor & ECU will not allow the engine run rich, but if another sensor keeps telling it to do so - things may get unstable.
The CTS acts as a "choker", if disrupted the ECU is signalled a constantly cold engine.
Likewise the ATS if disrupted constantly signals the ECU very cold intake air.
Any ACAV system with vacuum actuators & hoses are prone to leak and disturb engine running.
The Lambda sensor & ECU will not allow the engine run rich, but if another sensor keeps telling it to do so - things may get unstable.
The CTS acts as a "choker", if disrupted the ECU is signalled a constantly cold engine.
Likewise the ATS if disrupted constantly signals the ECU very cold intake air.
Any ACAV system with vacuum actuators & hoses are prone to leak and disturb engine running.
I've checked the operation of the coolant sensor. The voltage changes steadily when the engine warms and vice versa, so it seems OK. In fact, so the Oxygen sensor seems to be OK, when connected to a volt meter, but I know that this is not the most reliable test for a 'lazy' O2 sensor.
With regards to the air temp sensor, I haven't checked this. Any ideas on which one it is? My throttle has three (obvious) sensors. One is grey and one is yellow. These are at the back. The other seems to mount at the bottom pivot of the throttle plate and has an associated sensor that looks like a resistor boking out into the throttle opening.
I still have Mr McRobert's MAP sensor clean in mind, but I need to be double jointed to get to it. I'm worried that if I undo it, I won't be able to put it on again.
Another thing worth noting is that the revs needle doesn't move when this problem occurs and I have no fault codes.
With regards to the air temp sensor, I haven't checked this. Any ideas on which one it is? My throttle has three (obvious) sensors. One is grey and one is yellow. These are at the back. The other seems to mount at the bottom pivot of the throttle plate and has an associated sensor that looks like a resistor boking out into the throttle opening.
I still have Mr McRobert's MAP sensor clean in mind, but I need to be double jointed to get to it. I'm worried that if I undo it, I won't be able to put it on again.
Another thing worth noting is that the revs needle doesn't move when this problem occurs and I have no fault codes.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LeFrog</i>
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With regards to the air temp sensor, I haven't checked this. Any ideas on which one it is? My throttle has three (obvious) sensors. One is grey and one is yellow. These are at the back. The other seems to mount at the bottom pivot of the throttle plate and has an associated sensor that looks like a resistor boking out into the throttle opening.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My bet this resistor boking out into the throttle housing is the ATC.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LeFrog</i>
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Another thing worth noting is that the revs needle doesn't move when this problem occurs and I have no fault codes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Rev counters are sloooow reacting gauges - as you dont want the needle to wobble around. It simply cant indicate this engine wobbling ...
If the ECU does not see any fault condition, you wont get the fault code/lamp set.
...
With regards to the air temp sensor, I haven't checked this. Any ideas on which one it is? My throttle has three (obvious) sensors. One is grey and one is yellow. These are at the back. The other seems to mount at the bottom pivot of the throttle plate and has an associated sensor that looks like a resistor boking out into the throttle opening.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
My bet this resistor boking out into the throttle housing is the ATC.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LeFrog</i>
...
Another thing worth noting is that the revs needle doesn't move when this problem occurs and I have no fault codes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Rev counters are sloooow reacting gauges - as you dont want the needle to wobble around. It simply cant indicate this engine wobbling ...
If the ECU does not see any fault condition, you wont get the fault code/lamp set.
What sort of revs are you idling at? My 1.8i 16v Xantia started wobbling and cutting out at road junctions a few years ago, and it got very embarrassing - it did it five times in one car park!
I found that the throttle cable was extremely slack. Tightened it up a bit, and the problem vanished and never came back. Worth a try?
I found that the throttle cable was extremely slack. Tightened it up a bit, and the problem vanished and never came back. Worth a try?