I would appreciate some advice on removing the head from a BX 1.7TZD, (100,000 miles). I have checked as many threads as possible and read the Haynes manual.
First the reason why I need to remove the head, just recently I have the noticed the dreaded steam emerging from the tail pipe and the water cooling level going down albeit slowly, approx 1/3 pint every 40 miles.
I had the same problem on a previous TZD, but that was under lease so Citroen did the work and the leasing co picked up the bill, ( head had to be replaced), now I have the pleasure of fixing this one myself.
Advice needed on:
1. Can the turbo come out of situ with the head, after the oil feed and return pipes are disconnected?
2. Its states in the manual that before reinstalling the head, the piston heights, above the block, have to measured, then you know what thickness of head gasket to order, ( I’am going for a genuine Citroen part). I guess the question is can you just order a similar thickness gasket as the one that’s just been removed, as nothing should have changed.
3. Whilst I have got the head off as their anything else which I should replace, as I don’t won’t to go through another time consuming and possible costly repair. The timing belt is already on the list.
4. Are their any special tools or advice on making this job any easier, especially as theirs not enough space to swing a cat around.
Any advice or comments would be much appreciated
BX 1.7 TZD - Removing the head
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tomsheppard
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RichardW
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Yes, it's possible to remove the had with the manifolds and turbo attached - just. There's not a lot of room down the back of the engine and it's damn heavy when you're leaning over the engine. Getting the manifolds off is pretty awkward too though, as you need to undo the allen bolt in the centre of the inlet (yeah, good idea that Citroen!). On my car this needed the attention of the stilsons on the bench, so would never have come out in the car. However, the manifold is in the way of the head bolts so you need wobble bar or similar to get them in and out.
Best tip is to use a piece of cardboard to protect the head / block whilst you refit the head, then once it's in line slip the cardboard out and the new gasket in. Otherwise you wreck the first gasket[xx(]
Watch where the oil feed pipe for the turbo goes when you put it back in, as mine ended up on the wrong side of the drive shaft and I had to bend it over to get it back on (having already torqued the head down[:(!]). Thought I was going to snap it and have to start all over again!
I would buy a gasket from GSF - I think it is the same at the Citroen gasket, except about 1/4 the price. Either order the same thickness or just bung in the thickest one (I did) to take up any 'slack' on the head.
You need a 16mm deep socket to get the engine moutn off to get at the timing belt - I have a spark plug spanner that's the right size.
If the clutch has not been changed and you fancy keeping the car a while, I would seriously consider pulling the engine out, changing the timing belt, head gasket, clutch, the heater hoses down the back of the engine and the octopus while you're at it.
Not a job to be taken lightly.....
Best tip is to use a piece of cardboard to protect the head / block whilst you refit the head, then once it's in line slip the cardboard out and the new gasket in. Otherwise you wreck the first gasket[xx(]
Watch where the oil feed pipe for the turbo goes when you put it back in, as mine ended up on the wrong side of the drive shaft and I had to bend it over to get it back on (having already torqued the head down[:(!]). Thought I was going to snap it and have to start all over again!
I would buy a gasket from GSF - I think it is the same at the Citroen gasket, except about 1/4 the price. Either order the same thickness or just bung in the thickest one (I did) to take up any 'slack' on the head.
You need a 16mm deep socket to get the engine moutn off to get at the timing belt - I have a spark plug spanner that's the right size.
If the clutch has not been changed and you fancy keeping the car a while, I would seriously consider pulling the engine out, changing the timing belt, head gasket, clutch, the heater hoses down the back of the engine and the octopus while you're at it.
Not a job to be taken lightly.....
The head is finally off, it went well, the advise about steam cleaning the engine compartment, taking the whole process slowly was well worth taking note of , almost forgot and plenty of elastoplasts.
I now have a couple more questions,
1. I guess when I took the head of I was expecting a crack or part of the head to water jacket holes to have been corroded excessively, causing the water to get into the cylinder. I did find some water residue in no2 cylinder, but cannot find any corrosion or other defects on the head or block. The head gasket looked like it had seen better days with serious rust corrosion ( bulging quite badly) at the water ways, and extending outwards, but nowhere near the cylinders. I have yet to make sure that the head is not distorted, but is their anything I should check??
2. I obtained a new set of head bolts from GSF but they appear to be too long, The originals are 135mm whilst the new ones are 160mm, their p/n is correct from the GSF catalogue (N01172), has anybody else had this problem. The engine is a A8A rather than XUD, don’t know if this is why.
3. When the head come off, the locating dowel remained in the head, and I THINK a small copper washer came adrift from the block under the dowel, it does seem to fit the hole in the block where the dowel would locate, does anybody know if there is a copper washer under the dowel, and should I obtain a new one.????
Any help appreciated.
I now have a couple more questions,
1. I guess when I took the head of I was expecting a crack or part of the head to water jacket holes to have been corroded excessively, causing the water to get into the cylinder. I did find some water residue in no2 cylinder, but cannot find any corrosion or other defects on the head or block. The head gasket looked like it had seen better days with serious rust corrosion ( bulging quite badly) at the water ways, and extending outwards, but nowhere near the cylinders. I have yet to make sure that the head is not distorted, but is their anything I should check??
2. I obtained a new set of head bolts from GSF but they appear to be too long, The originals are 135mm whilst the new ones are 160mm, their p/n is correct from the GSF catalogue (N01172), has anybody else had this problem. The engine is a A8A rather than XUD, don’t know if this is why.
3. When the head come off, the locating dowel remained in the head, and I THINK a small copper washer came adrift from the block under the dowel, it does seem to fit the hole in the block where the dowel would locate, does anybody know if there is a copper washer under the dowel, and should I obtain a new one.????
Any help appreciated.
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oilyspanner
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I have never seen this copper washer? the dowel is best removed from the head and pushed into the block,where it stops the new gasket from sliding around during fitting. dont forget to clean out the threaded holes in the block, I use an old headbolt with a couple of slots sawn in it, just run it down the holes to clean the threads. another tip is to make sure you disconnect the turbo oil feed pipe (steel one) at the top before attempting to screw its bottom end into the block, the threads are prone to crossing up, good luck
Stewart
Stewart