Hi all
Has anyone ever found a guide to how to repipe a BX from start to finish?
I'm just after something that tells you where best to start and finish, whether to replace other bits while you're at it, whether you need new cable to body clips etc.
With all the helpful comments on various forums, somebody must have written this job up by now?!
Adrian
Information on repiping a BX
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adrianeaton
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tomsheppard
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Nobody has dared! As far as I know, the front to rear pipes and those around the front subframe are the most awkward and most folks avoid the front subframe area as there is usually Total rustproofing aplenty! The Ideal (And almost certainly the easiest) way to do it would be to remove the tank and both subframes, repipe the subframes and replace the front to rear pipes
before putting the whole plot back together. If you have no leaks then do the Hydraurincage for a couple of thousand miles first. Rebuild the front struts while the subframe is out and replace the timing belt, tensioner rollers, water pump and the clutch while it is all out and getatable.
before putting the whole plot back together. If you have no leaks then do the Hydraurincage for a couple of thousand miles first. Rebuild the front struts while the subframe is out and replace the timing belt, tensioner rollers, water pump and the clutch while it is all out and getatable.
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oilyspanner
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I have done a few front to rear sets and my method is to use genuine cit ones as they are pre bent and give you a clue as to routing, a pit or big axle stands are essential, let the exhaust loose from the rubbers and you can see where you are ,remove the pipes one at a time and its possible to wangle the new ones over the crossmember withous bending them unduly, be prepared to replace smaller pipes at the rear 3 and 4 way connectors as you will disturb these, usual tight fastenings can be helped along using a mini blowlamp and keep the swearbox handy. have fun
Stewart
Stewart
Adrian,
If you have a look around the files etc on "Citroentech" you'll find a long winded rundown that was done by that young guy from Scotland "Deathwolf" a couple of years ago and who subsequently posyed it either in files or photos.
I think he did it the 'scarey' way by pulling all the plumbing out and then repiping pipe for pipe and used the newer non corroding tubing that's sold by GSF & Pleiades and made up his own.
If you have problems finding it on there, just send me an e-mail & I'll try to find it for you.
Alan S
If you have a look around the files etc on "Citroentech" you'll find a long winded rundown that was done by that young guy from Scotland "Deathwolf" a couple of years ago and who subsequently posyed it either in files or photos.
I think he did it the 'scarey' way by pulling all the plumbing out and then repiping pipe for pipe and used the newer non corroding tubing that's sold by GSF & Pleiades and made up his own.
If you have problems finding it on there, just send me an e-mail & I'll try to find it for you.
Alan S
Here it is Adrian. It was hidden in an album.
Alan S
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ci ... yahoo.com/
Alan S
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ci ... yahoo.com/
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adrianeaton
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Cheers for the info gents,
Oilyspanner - are the genuine Citroen pipes non-corroding if you buy replacements these days?
It is mainly the front to backs I'm worried about, as these are showing signs of external corrosion and I don't want to get to the point where I have to lift the car off the deck with a leak!
I think Plaidies do made up pipes for the BX so maybe they're a better option than the Citroen ones if they're not corrosion free?
Adrian
Oilyspanner - are the genuine Citroen pipes non-corroding if you buy replacements these days?
It is mainly the front to backs I'm worried about, as these are showing signs of external corrosion and I don't want to get to the point where I have to lift the car off the deck with a leak!
I think Plaidies do made up pipes for the BX so maybe they're a better option than the Citroen ones if they're not corrosion free?
Adrian
Having done this job myself, every pipe at the back, brake pipes, the lot, I would say definately set aside a weekend and drop the rear sub-frame- I didn't, as I need to use the car daily, and did it pipe by pipe as and when, and it would have been much easier to drop the subframe and do it all at once.
Also, when you order new pipes, order seals seperately, as the pipes don't come with them-silly, I know, as it's more or less essential to renew them at the same time.
It reminds me of the old Maestro clutch cable, which, when it broke, the end clip always came off,was lost on the road, but never came with the new cable and had to be ordered seperately!
Also, when you order new pipes, order seals seperately, as the pipes don't come with them-silly, I know, as it's more or less essential to renew them at the same time.
It reminds me of the old Maestro clutch cable, which, when it broke, the end clip always came off,was lost on the road, but never came with the new cable and had to be ordered seperately!
I think the genuine Citroen pipes are what they have been since '89 or so: cheap steel "protected" for a while by the plastic coating. Any replacement pipe I have bought (including Citroen originals bought from GS&F) has been like this.
For longest life you could get the relaively cheap front-rear pipes from Citroen/GS&F, then get a kunifer(?) pipe roll, 10mm seals (MUCH easier to cope with then 8mm), and a decent flaring tool. You'd then be able to make up copies of those crucial front-rears (your main worry) and have both a pair of masters and a fallback.You could then replace anything you chose to try thereafter.
For longest life you could get the relaively cheap front-rear pipes from Citroen/GS&F, then get a kunifer(?) pipe roll, 10mm seals (MUCH easier to cope with then 8mm), and a decent flaring tool. You'd then be able to make up copies of those crucial front-rears (your main worry) and have both a pair of masters and a fallback.You could then replace anything you chose to try thereafter.