Hi All,
I have suspected for sometime that the cylinder head-gasket was going on my ZX 1.9 D (P-reg). Why? ...
Air was leaking into the cooling system and causing the coolant to be squeezed out of the filler cap. A local-mechanic had a quick look at it, bled the coolant system and went for a test drive. His diagnosis: no problem; keep on driving and keep an eye on the levels.
From reading this forum and the Haynes manual I thought that this may be due to the head-gasket failing, although not always (leaking water pump gasket, blockages in the radiator, etc).
However, now there are traces of oil in the coolant and I think it's getting worse. So I have stopped driving the vehicle and need to get it sorted out.
So to the main point. <b>Is it sensible for me to try and remove the cylinder head myself, get it crack-tested / skimmed by an engineer, and then refit it myself?</b>
What are possible pitfalls of the DIY approach and what should I watch for? Or should I leave this one to the professionals?
Thanks in advance,
Billy
D.I.Y. Cylinder head removal - good idea?
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tomsheppard
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I guess I'm farely competent when it comes to mechanicing. I am confident changing brakes, drive shafts, belts, etc.
I have looked around for a local mechanic (Poole / Bournemouth) area but the trusted ones are busy for the next 2 - 3 weeks. Also, I fancy giving it a go.
What should I do to prepare? I guess get hold of:
<ul><li>full range of replacement gaskets (1, 2 or 3 notch)</li><li>replacement cylinder head bolts</li><li>replacement manifold gaskets (inlet & exhaust?)</li></ul>What else should I watch for? And what (specialist) tools should I make sure I have (e.g., do I need a T55 Torx bit -mentioned in Haynes manual - to loosen the bolts)?
Thanks again
I have looked around for a local mechanic (Poole / Bournemouth) area but the trusted ones are busy for the next 2 - 3 weeks. Also, I fancy giving it a go.
What should I do to prepare? I guess get hold of:
<ul><li>full range of replacement gaskets (1, 2 or 3 notch)</li><li>replacement cylinder head bolts</li><li>replacement manifold gaskets (inlet & exhaust?)</li></ul>What else should I watch for? And what (specialist) tools should I make sure I have (e.g., do I need a T55 Torx bit -mentioned in Haynes manual - to loosen the bolts)?
Thanks again
bb -
You dont buy a selection of HG's - you simply buy a stage 2 replacement HG.
Then purchase an engine decoke set - which holds all the other gaskets for the top of the engine - EXCEPT the HG.
Some gaskets you wont need at first glance - untill you find it necessary to remove other bits not planned at first [;)]
- dont go dismantling everything just to replace the gaskets though [8)]
As the timing belt and tensioner/roller must be removed - it's a good idea to replace the lot - unless you positively know it's got a low service life (less than approx 25Kmiles).
Once the belt is off - check the waterpump - it will be due at approx 120-150Kmiles anyway.
HINT :
If you need a special size/tool during the job - then go purchase THAT tool ONLY ! - in best quality !
never buy those cheepo sets which holds every thinkable tool/size !
Best tools are 6edge "round corner" sokets and ring spanners - never the hobby 12edge tools.
This way you slowly over the years collect a large collection of quality tools - at very affordable spendings.
PS : The package of the HG will hold information on the torque of the head bolts. Size will be torx55.
TIP : Follow the Haynes description in general terms on how the work is done. When it comes to some technical details, Haynes may/will let you down, as it's not possible to cover every thinkable variant on engines produced over the years and export markets. Technical changes on the Citroen production lines are often experienced - w/o any notice - you have to learn the hard way [:p]
You dont buy a selection of HG's - you simply buy a stage 2 replacement HG.
Then purchase an engine decoke set - which holds all the other gaskets for the top of the engine - EXCEPT the HG.
Some gaskets you wont need at first glance - untill you find it necessary to remove other bits not planned at first [;)]
- dont go dismantling everything just to replace the gaskets though [8)]
As the timing belt and tensioner/roller must be removed - it's a good idea to replace the lot - unless you positively know it's got a low service life (less than approx 25Kmiles).
Once the belt is off - check the waterpump - it will be due at approx 120-150Kmiles anyway.
HINT :
If you need a special size/tool during the job - then go purchase THAT tool ONLY ! - in best quality !
never buy those cheepo sets which holds every thinkable tool/size !
Best tools are 6edge "round corner" sokets and ring spanners - never the hobby 12edge tools.
This way you slowly over the years collect a large collection of quality tools - at very affordable spendings.
PS : The package of the HG will hold information on the torque of the head bolts. Size will be torx55.
TIP : Follow the Haynes description in general terms on how the work is done. When it comes to some technical details, Haynes may/will let you down, as it's not possible to cover every thinkable variant on engines produced over the years and export markets. Technical changes on the Citroen production lines are often experienced - w/o any notice - you have to learn the hard way [:p]