ZX rear beam & brake pipe question

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 23 Jun 2004, 23:23

the ZX has just failed its MOT on:
N/S/F Side Lamp intermittant
Both rear subframe mounting blocks?? unbonded??
O/S Outer C.V Boot leaking
Exhaust blowing @ Cat > Front pipe joint
Exhaust backbox loose & blowing @ joint
oh & the garage broke the drivers mirror glass!
mounting blocks? what? Does this mean I'm going to have to drop the rear axle??
If so should I upgrade it to the one I have with rear disks attached??
Its a 1.4i that I have upgraded the front brakes with Volcane ones.
Also is there a difference between the front brake flex's on a Volcane / 16v and a lower spec one, like my 1.4? i.e is the hole down the middle of the pipe bigger??
Asking cos after upgrading the front brakes, they still feel spongy - like they were before & the pedal travel is also the same as before.

Post by **RichardW** » 24 Jun 2004, 00:28

Yes, you have to drop the rear subframe. See here where it's described in all its glory:
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=1699
The Volcane one will be lowered, so your 1.4 will look a bit silly unless you fit Volcane front struts as well!
Spongy brakes could be due to a myriad of reasons, but the fact they have not changed after you changed the front calipers suggests the 'fault' lies elsewhere. They might just be like that!

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 24 Jun 2004, 00:39

really? nice one dude thanks.
I have already lowered the front on -35mm springs so should be ok

James.UK · Post by **James.UK** » 24 Jun 2004, 02:33

When I did the same brake swop on my ZX Avantage I had to fit a new master cylinder before my brakes finaly worked well..
Must you have a "cat" fitted in order to pass its MOT ? [;)]

Post by **Jon** » 24 Jun 2004, 13:52

Going back to the brake hoses, all ZX ones are the same be the calipers Bendix, Girling, or Girling vented, EXCEPT the ZX 16v which uses longer hoses.
If your brakes are still spongey after bleeding, you might have a problem with the rear brakes, possibly they are out of adjustment.

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 24 Jun 2004, 23:15

well according for the MOT station all four are pulling up fine. It seems to be the initial pedal touch, nothing seems to happen then when to poke them some more it stops on a dime

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 25 Feb 2006, 17:15

[quote="RichardW"]Yes, you have to drop the rear subframe. See here where it's described in all its glory:
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=1699

The above link is not working. Is there a way to bring it up on french car forum via topic number or does anyone know where it is if it still exists

Thanks

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 25 Feb 2006, 17:19

blimey this is a old thread! lol whats your question dude??
I don't think the old andyspares links work now? might be wrong tho

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 25 Feb 2006, 17:55

I think I have found what I was looking for on common faults and was about to try and remove this post. Anyway, since you were so quick to reply this is the issue.

Knocking offside rear front mount. I started out to replace it today, Undid the two bolts in the boot of only the front mount on the right. Wondered if this would allow any movement as hoped to just replace the front mounts. Anwway it did not move an inch. I have not read Dave's method as yet so will probably get all the answers there. I did repace the rear rear

mounts wihout undoing anything else a couple of years back just after new axle fitted (forward ones at the time were not very old so did not replace them). Just losened the rear mount in the boot and levered it a little.

Hoped to do the same to the front. Garage is full just now so when wind picked up and then started spitting a little, thought bu**er it for today.

If you have any tips over and above Dave's post I would appreciate it. I found this also.
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... ght=mounts

Not sure what he means about subframe falling in half?

Thanks

Dave

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 25 Feb 2006, 19:16

yeh I think he's covered most things.

When I did mine I jacked up & supported the car, then removed the backbox, put a trolly jack under the centre of the rear beam, undid all the boot bolts, but left the nuts on a half turn then got under the car & pulled, pushed wiggled & rattled the beam loose, then removed all the bolts from the boot, lowered the jack slowly nipping round each side just to guide it down.
Just need to jack the jack up again & get someone to run the nuts on abit while you wiggle from under to get into place.
Then just tighten everything up & refit the backbox.

8304 · Post by **8304** » 25 Feb 2006, 19:56

i replaced my front subframe mounts a bout a month ago - i found i didnt have to loosen the back ones as the drop of about 3inches you need at the front is able to be given by the flex in the back mounts... if you see what i mean.

I did find it dificult to get the bolts back through the mount and the subframe when re-assebling as the bolts hold everything straight on the subframe so it all moved making it difficult to line it all up but jacking in the right places and crow bar pursuaded it otherwise!!

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 26 Feb 2006, 16:42

rossnunn

Sounds a good idea to give them a good shake etc. Did you leave all the brake pipes connected and how far did you lower the frame?

8304

You did what I was about to try and do yesterday. I can and did envisage it would be a bit harder getting it all back together though. Might still try it that way.

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 26 Feb 2006, 19:07

erm....no I think I disconnect mine as I was changing the beam at the same time, but I'vew read that if you unclip the pipework from the floor & very carefully lower it down you can get round it that way.
If you do decide to undo the brake pipes, get some clingfilm and put it over the brake master cylinder filler hole then screw the cap back on tight, that'll stop alot of fluid loss.

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 26 Feb 2006, 22:19

Yes I saw that post somewhere yesterday. Good tip re cling film. Will not be starting this job again until it warms up a bit. At time I may lower the set up. I need slide hammer though. Been looking but can't just see one which will hold an m8 bolt. Needs lowering as it is about an inch to high. If you know of a slide hammer that would suit let me know. The Haynes sugggestion of m8 bolt and spanner is pretty naff.

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 26 Feb 2006, 22:44

I've never done the lowering of the rear beams on either my ZX or my bro's 306, we both bought in pre-lowered beams.
I've heared they are either simple as or a right pain in the butt.
If you do a direct swap with the rear beam, we had a small race between me my bro & his mate (with a 106) 106 took 4 hours, 306 took 1 1/2 hours ZX took 45mins!

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