I read somewhere that a problematic FDV or regulator unit can be sorted by re-seating a ball valve using a brass or other soft drift.
Question. Which one is it, as the only ball valve assembly I know of is the one that lies behind the de-pressurisation bolt on the main accumulator/regulator unit?
Thanks in advance
Doc
FDV or Regulator
Moderator: RichardW
That's the one they are talking about.
It's recommended that you <i><b>carefully</b></i> remove the depressurising bolt (12mm) and watch that the ball doesn't drop out & roll away, and slip a brass drift down the hole & against the ball. Give it a couple of short sharp taps to reseat it & then refit the 12mm bolt.
Alan S
It's recommended that you <i><b>carefully</b></i> remove the depressurising bolt (12mm) and watch that the ball doesn't drop out & roll away, and slip a brass drift down the hole & against the ball. Give it a couple of short sharp taps to reseat it & then refit the 12mm bolt.
Alan S
Alan, forgive me for being a bozo, but I am a little confused.
I think I have a problem with this myself (see my post on 27 May). On I think good advice from Jeremy I had a look at this problem by removal of the accumulator sphere, and removing the inner bolt that holds back a ball (the same one you're talking about?), and using a drift from that direction (it didn't appear to do anything;maybe I didn't hit it hard enough??). However on reading this thread, I am wondering if I have misunderstood, since you are suggesting removal of the 12 mm depressurising bolt (the one that the Haynes manual tells me to undo 1 and a half turns "but do NOT remove"!) to get to this (or another?) ball. If it is this latter bolt, then this may explain my problem, but there's no way I could get a drift down that hole since the radiator is stuffed up against it (is a BX TGD Turbo model). Am I being stupid? Can you clarify and releive me of my confusion?[?]
Many thanks
Barny
I think I have a problem with this myself (see my post on 27 May). On I think good advice from Jeremy I had a look at this problem by removal of the accumulator sphere, and removing the inner bolt that holds back a ball (the same one you're talking about?), and using a drift from that direction (it didn't appear to do anything;maybe I didn't hit it hard enough??). However on reading this thread, I am wondering if I have misunderstood, since you are suggesting removal of the 12 mm depressurising bolt (the one that the Haynes manual tells me to undo 1 and a half turns "but do NOT remove"!) to get to this (or another?) ball. If it is this latter bolt, then this may explain my problem, but there's no way I could get a drift down that hole since the radiator is stuffed up against it (is a BX TGD Turbo model). Am I being stupid? Can you clarify and releive me of my confusion?[?]
Many thanks
Barny
Personally, I reckon they need to come off the car to be done properly; too restricted in situ. That way you can do the lot and see physically what the results are.
When we did the rebuild on my sons BX16V series one, I did this plus washed out the FDV in petrol and blew out with compressed air and that cars hydraulics performed perfectly after that.
Alan S
When we did the rebuild on my sons BX16V series one, I did this plus washed out the FDV in petrol and blew out with compressed air and that cars hydraulics performed perfectly after that.
Alan S
Doing the valve ball valve under the pressure relief valve won't do any harm and may help. I've not actually done mine as i didn't think it would have worn, as its held in position by the bolt! The non-return valve will cahtter on and off its seat frequently and will wear its seat. To do the pressure relief ball you will have to remove the regulator or the radiator.
I originally did it on the car as I wondered if it would work and was trying to cure frequent ticking and another problem. If you enjoy taking the thing off then go for it! Personally I don't particularily enjoy removing the things and have things I'd rather be doing - so I'd do the non-return valve in situ. If it doesn't work you haven't wasted much time on it either. Make sure your brass drift is the right size - ie if its too big you may not actually strike the ball, too thin and it may shoot off to one side and again fail. I actually put an indentation in the end of my drift with a drill for better location but don't know if this is really necessary.
jeremy
I originally did it on the car as I wondered if it would work and was trying to cure frequent ticking and another problem. If you enjoy taking the thing off then go for it! Personally I don't particularily enjoy removing the things and have things I'd rather be doing - so I'd do the non-return valve in situ. If it doesn't work you haven't wasted much time on it either. Make sure your brass drift is the right size - ie if its too big you may not actually strike the ball, too thin and it may shoot off to one side and again fail. I actually put an indentation in the end of my drift with a drill for better location but don't know if this is really necessary.
jeremy
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oilyspanner
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I followed advice from this forum using an old MIG nozzle attached to a punch using a bit of old citroen rubber tube and did the one behind the acc sphere, I did some other things in the same session so cannot be sure which thing cured it but is rarely clicks now and was reasonable to do in situ.
Stewart
Stewart