Snapped clutch lever on ZX Volcane

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 24 May 2004, 00:58

Hi, I'm new and I hope someone can help.
The lever has snapped at the upper pivot of the release fork shaft. I have removed the air filter ducting to get access to it. Problem is that there is a roll pin with a protruding threading section that I need to get out. The Haynes manual seems to suggest that this need to be "driven out" but 1) which way, and 2) how as access is really difficult.
Is there a simple way of doing this?
I'd be really grateful is someone could help. I could email a picture if this would help.
Thanks
Paul

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 24 May 2004, 01:19

Doesn't sound like the proper pin has been used, on the TD's at least, the pin is solid and has no thread's, it is held in place by a fancy spring clip that goes round the end of the pin and the lever's boss, it has to be pulled out, there isn't enough space behind to knock it through.
Dave

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 24 May 2004, 02:13

Dave
Thanks. Not what I wanted to hear really. The thing I don't understand though is that it has never been touched from new. I fear I may have to drill it out.
Paul

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 24 May 2004, 02:40

On some of the early Xsara's this pin was a half threaded bar and is removed by screwing a nut on, it then pulls against the shaft untill it's loose on it's tapper. Not to sure of the nut size but it may be 8mm. Have seen this before and after the first couple of turns they are usuallly loose. If this fails it needs to be driven out towards you and this can be achived with an allen key or drift at 90deg's. as before they aren't that tight and after a few blows it should be loose. Hope this helps.

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 24 May 2004, 02:52

Stuart
What you say sound really promising. I was thinking this when I gained access but was not sure if the pin would just turn.
I'll give it a go tomorrow.
Cheers mate.
Paul

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 24 May 2004, 21:06

Just called a dealer for the new lever. £58! Included the shaft which I don't want but that's how they sell it. I'll see what I can find at the breakers.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 24 May 2004, 23:21

I have a spare one in Wrexham, I can probably find a pin too
Stewart

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 25 May 2004, 02:37

Thanks Stuart.
At the dealers today I realised that there are a few different versions, so when I do get it off, I'll take a picture of it and email it to you (if that's ok) so I know that you have the right one.
For now I can't get the damn thing off. I got the M8 nut on the pin and all I did was strip the thread on the pin. Access to from behind is really difficult because you can't hit it straight on.
I've decided to give up for now after having sprayed WD40 on it. It probably won't make any difference, but as a long shot it might just work. Tonight I'm going to search the internet for some kind of extraction tool.
Roll on tomorrow evening!
Cheers
Paul

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 25 May 2004, 02:38

Stewart
Sorry for spelling you name wrong!

davek-uk · Post by **davek-uk** » 25 May 2004, 13:37

Same thing happened on my AX some time ago. I couldn't remove the pin and had to drill it out - even then I couldn't get the damn arm off! In the end I got a local welder out and he charged £5 to weld it up and put a plate on to strengthen it; it took him 5 minutes and I had been fighting for at least 10 hours in total!

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 25 May 2004, 14:18

Dave
I'm a little worried about welding because of heat transfer to the plastic bush around the release shaft. For now I'm going to try a scissors type ball joint cracker. I’ve seen one that Draper make. Wish me luck!
Paul

davek-uk · Post by **davek-uk** » 26 May 2004, 13:49

Yes, the bush did suffer a little bit - it also suffered before the welding as I was trying to belt the pin out with a lump hammer. As I couldn't get the arm to budge, even after I drilled the pin out, I didn't have much choice. Mind you, it's easier to try the bizzare on a car that is basically worth its scrap value! It didn't seem to wreck anything it still works ok. Good luck, Paul!

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 27 May 2004, 00:09

If your going to drill out the pin you'll need to go a 'size up' so as to get the whole pin out and not leave a wee bit of the old pin behind in side the broken arm. If you do that you'll also have to ream the new arm to fit a slightly bigger pin. I didn't think you'd strugle with this pin. Last one I did almost fell out, but it was on a Rover (plase don't hate me)620 Si. Horible car I still have night mares.

davek-uk · Post by **davek-uk** » 27 May 2004, 13:29

Yes, worth pointing out Stuart. Where my pin was, is now a big, slightly untidy, hole. I have a bent nail through it so that if it eventually frees I won't have the arm twisting right around. It still hasn't budged in 25k miles!

Paul 67 · Post by **Paul 67** » 31 May 2004, 04:03

Dear all
Thanks for your contributions. Well I finally got it out. I have never done a job like this on a car. All in all it must have taken me 15 hours. I got it out with a combination of putting mole grips on what was left of the threaded section and whacking it via an 18" extension bar angled towards the distributor. That moved it about 2mm. That was after grinding away the head of the pin with a Dremel because I had “peaned” it over from all the whacking. Then I had to use a combination of a ball joint cracker and ascending lengths of M6 bolts to squeeze out the pin. Nightmare! Make no mistake; this pin is a full blown interference fit along its whole length - not a Morse taper.
Interestingly, the new lever arm (I bought new because I could not bear the thought of another snapped one!) is much more beefy than the old. I needed a new top bush too.
Thanks again everyone. The nightmare is over and once again, the car drives like a dream.
Paul