Hail.
I have an annoying LHM leak from the base of the pressure reg on my XM 2.1 12V, about a litre every six weeks. I expect the accumulator is a bit flat and maybe the PR seal has gone? Though I may have read something about mounting bolt distortion causing the leak.
Anyway, if I need a new regulator, will any variety work OK, from XM, BX, Xantia whatever, or is the pressure reg fitted to the XM unique to the XM? (I'm wondering if I should try one from the scrappy.)
If the accumulator sphere is renewed, is there any chance this annoying drip will dry up, or is it here to stay..? Whats the correct tick rate for an accumulator in good nick at normal height?
Any ideas or info appreciated.
cheers
Russell
Pressure regulator dripping
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Russell -
It all depends on the servosteering bits fitted according to modelyear.
Pre '95 models has the BX type system with a single port hydpump (1 single rigid steel pipe). These models uses a modified PR with an extra pipeport (3 rigid pipes in all), meaning you can use pre '95 XM/BX and the very first Xantia models PR's with this extra pipeport.
Post '95 models have the 2 port (2 rigid steel pipes) hydpump, simplifying the system, thus using a dead standard PR, known ever since the days of the D models. Meaning you can use CX/non-servo BX14 & BX16/ later Xantia & XM PR's
Simply look for 1 or 2 rigid steelpipes running off your hydpump, then you know which PR to look for.
The leak would not be related to any condition of the sphere. I'd say you have a chance it's the PR's return rubber hose leaking on the stud, or the stud housing seal leaking. Of course the sphere seal is also a good bet, but it would tend to leak from day one, not after long service time.
Simple check : try re-tension the main accu sphere, by handforce only.
Best way to be sure is cleaning down well the complete area, and then see which way the leak takes within the next day.
Good ticking intervals are from 1minute and longer.
Down to 30 seconds are acceptable, but a telltale.
Less than 30 seconds are poor to really bad, meaning little to none safety spare pressure is left in the sphere if engine stalls during drive. No brakes pressure then, and un-necessary stessing the pump & PR.
It all depends on the servosteering bits fitted according to modelyear.
Pre '95 models has the BX type system with a single port hydpump (1 single rigid steel pipe). These models uses a modified PR with an extra pipeport (3 rigid pipes in all), meaning you can use pre '95 XM/BX and the very first Xantia models PR's with this extra pipeport.
Post '95 models have the 2 port (2 rigid steel pipes) hydpump, simplifying the system, thus using a dead standard PR, known ever since the days of the D models. Meaning you can use CX/non-servo BX14 & BX16/ later Xantia & XM PR's
Simply look for 1 or 2 rigid steelpipes running off your hydpump, then you know which PR to look for.
The leak would not be related to any condition of the sphere. I'd say you have a chance it's the PR's return rubber hose leaking on the stud, or the stud housing seal leaking. Of course the sphere seal is also a good bet, but it would tend to leak from day one, not after long service time.
Simple check : try re-tension the main accu sphere, by handforce only.
Best way to be sure is cleaning down well the complete area, and then see which way the leak takes within the next day.
Good ticking intervals are from 1minute and longer.
Down to 30 seconds are acceptable, but a telltale.
Less than 30 seconds are poor to really bad, meaning little to none safety spare pressure is left in the sphere if engine stalls during drive. No brakes pressure then, and un-necessary stessing the pump & PR.
I had a similar leak from the PR-area of my '93 XM TD12. It turned out to be the rubber hose just were the metal clip sits that holds it in place on the return outlet. The rubber muff had split, so it didn't leak while the engine was off (not much, anyway) but as soon as some pressure build up in the return line it started peeing! I had previously "rescued" a PR together with a gearbox I bought from a scrappy (a '92) and that had a much more secure clip attachment that didn't strain the muff as much - so it was just a case of swapping them.
//NiSk
//NiSk
Jeremy -
Your point is correct - quite a few "standard" PR's are in fact the BX PAS type with a blanking plug. Now I remember we had this discussion before [;)]
- keep forgetting this special point, as I've never seen these PAS PR's with a blanking plug myself.
It does in fact adds an extra dimension as for using any available (PAS type) PR at hand - adding a sealed blank plug.
Good point Jeremy [8D]
Your point is correct - quite a few "standard" PR's are in fact the BX PAS type with a blanking plug. Now I remember we had this discussion before [;)]
- keep forgetting this special point, as I've never seen these PAS PR's with a blanking plug myself.
It does in fact adds an extra dimension as for using any available (PAS type) PR at hand - adding a sealed blank plug.
Good point Jeremy [8D]
Thanks for the info, looks like I'm in the market for a spare PR.
I think from older posts that I have a problem with the little O ring seal in the current PR. I think these can be reconditioned: I was told a spring tends to sproioing with gusto if these are taken apart, but if anyone knows different, or has a step by step, I might well take a look, especially if I can get a second hand replacement.
If my accumulator sphere is a bit flat, I assume this might account for the slight bounciness of the ride. Most of the corner spheres are not all that old, but I can't see when the accumulator sphere has ever been replaced in my service history.
Anyway, many thanks all.
Cheers
Russell
I think from older posts that I have a problem with the little O ring seal in the current PR. I think these can be reconditioned: I was told a spring tends to sproioing with gusto if these are taken apart, but if anyone knows different, or has a step by step, I might well take a look, especially if I can get a second hand replacement.
If my accumulator sphere is a bit flat, I assume this might account for the slight bounciness of the ride. Most of the corner spheres are not all that old, but I can't see when the accumulator sphere has ever been replaced in my service history.
Anyway, many thanks all.
Cheers
Russell
Incidentally, I just tried to listen for the PR ticking at various heights, but I can't hear it over the hiss of whatever is hissing, but goes away for a few seconds when the steering is moved slightly.
I tried the citaerobics, and apart from the back end going up much faster than the front, all seemed smooth and more or less in order.
Still couldn't hear it ticking over the hiss...
cheers
Russell
I tried the citaerobics, and apart from the back end going up much faster than the front, all seemed smooth and more or less in order.
Still couldn't hear it ticking over the hiss...
cheers
Russell
Russell, have a peep Overhauling the PR. Comments to this description (on that forum) appreciated, if you feel like.