Folks,
I was "called out" to a buddy's BX last night.
A colourful slick on the drive. One very upset lady driver. Hubby away.
The feed to the rear suspension had gone. It appears that the feed pipe (at about the 1 o'clock position when viewed from the sphere end)had corroded just above the union into the "cylinder". My local Citroen man reckons that this is unheard of. I am not convinced.
I don't know the BX. Is this a common one?
In typical "gallic-eccentric" style, a slight tweak of the pressured pipe produced an "atomised LHM" effect like dry ice at a heavy metal concert. And also drenched me. My skin now feels softer and my hair is shinier. Should we sell some to Anitia Roddick at The BodyShop?
rg
P.S. There is an excellent 1.9 turbo BX K-reg for sale in the Stockton on Tees area....70K, 2 owner FSH. About £850. (shucks - no money and no room on the drive)
BX Rear Leak
Moderator: RichardW
It depends on the age of the car. I can't remember the year, someone else will know- I think it was 1990/91, but prior to this the pipes were not particularly well corrosion protected.
The later ones are much better.
My BX is an 89 diesel, and 2 MOT tests ago, at about 170,000 miles, I had to renew all of the steel pipework from the bulkhead backwards- every single one!!!![:(!][}:)]as they were ALL corroded in places and failed by the tester.
Where I go for my tests he has got a bit of a bee in his bonnet about hydraulic pipework, and some may only have warranted an advisory, but never-the-less, they were not good, and some I could just break out by hand.
If one of your mates pipes has rusted through I don't suppose the rest will be far behind.
The later ones are much better.
My BX is an 89 diesel, and 2 MOT tests ago, at about 170,000 miles, I had to renew all of the steel pipework from the bulkhead backwards- every single one!!!![:(!][}:)]as they were ALL corroded in places and failed by the tester.
Where I go for my tests he has got a bit of a bee in his bonnet about hydraulic pipework, and some may only have warranted an advisory, but never-the-less, they were not good, and some I could just break out by hand.
If one of your mates pipes has rusted through I don't suppose the rest will be far behind.
Adrian -
2 workdays (2 x 7.5hrs) replacing the complete pipework is not insane.
Some of the components may indeed need removal, to get access for budging the old pipework.
It's not exactly just screw-off/screw-on jobs on older cars with rusty underbody works.
The job is challenging for the DIY'er, as it's more fiddly than first thought of. Not a complex job, requiring special tools though.
If the car is planned to be on roads for yet several y's, it's well worth considering CuNi or stainless steel piping. At least the piping can then be left untouched for good. Also known to give better trade-in values, as new owner will then know for sure the pipeworks will last his time out.
2 workdays (2 x 7.5hrs) replacing the complete pipework is not insane.
Some of the components may indeed need removal, to get access for budging the old pipework.
It's not exactly just screw-off/screw-on jobs on older cars with rusty underbody works.
The job is challenging for the DIY'er, as it's more fiddly than first thought of. Not a complex job, requiring special tools though.
If the car is planned to be on roads for yet several y's, it's well worth considering CuNi or stainless steel piping. At least the piping can then be left untouched for good. Also known to give better trade-in values, as new owner will then know for sure the pipeworks will last his time out.
I did it myself, so it was only the cost of the pipes, which are pretty cheap, plus new rear suspension cylinders which are a lot dearer............and a lot of beer to relieve the stress!!!
The pipes were completely seized into the cylinders and I couldn't get them out, even with the cylinders on the bench, heat, etc,etc.I ended upo having to replace them; I need transport daily and it was touch and go wether to scrap the car and just buy something else that night or not; I didn't as the rest of the car was sound enough to justify the expense, and there was nothing in the paper, but if I couldn't do the work myself it would have been straight into the crusher as the job is just not economically viable on a 13 or 14 year old car if you are paying pro labour rates.
It could probably be done in one day but could end up taking 2 days if problems are encountered; whoever quoted 2 days is probably erring on the side of caution; when it comes to bleeding the rear brakes the nipples are bound to be seized, which will involve extra time and work above just replacing the pipes.All the plastic pipe clips will break, the floorpan mauy be rusted through behind the clips, all that sort of thing!!!
The main problem is access; I took out the spare and its cradle, but in retrospect if I did it again I would drop the rear subframe and the transverse silencer box as well, which I didn't do but half way through I wished I had!!!
Incidentally, after I had done the work I returned to the old cylinders when I was a bit bored, and even with all the time in the world I still could'nt get the old pipe stubs out!!!!!
The pipes were completely seized into the cylinders and I couldn't get them out, even with the cylinders on the bench, heat, etc,etc.I ended upo having to replace them; I need transport daily and it was touch and go wether to scrap the car and just buy something else that night or not; I didn't as the rest of the car was sound enough to justify the expense, and there was nothing in the paper, but if I couldn't do the work myself it would have been straight into the crusher as the job is just not economically viable on a 13 or 14 year old car if you are paying pro labour rates.
It could probably be done in one day but could end up taking 2 days if problems are encountered; whoever quoted 2 days is probably erring on the side of caution; when it comes to bleeding the rear brakes the nipples are bound to be seized, which will involve extra time and work above just replacing the pipes.All the plastic pipe clips will break, the floorpan mauy be rusted through behind the clips, all that sort of thing!!!
The main problem is access; I took out the spare and its cradle, but in retrospect if I did it again I would drop the rear subframe and the transverse silencer box as well, which I didn't do but half way through I wished I had!!!
Incidentally, after I had done the work I returned to the old cylinders when I was a bit bored, and even with all the time in the world I still could'nt get the old pipe stubs out!!!!!
Sorry rg -
Got carried away and forgot the topic -
Donno why the Cit garage said "unheard of".
I'd say that all pipings underbody on BX'es are equally exposed to corrosion.
As BxBodger writes, it may end up in some very fiddly fighting ...
Cheapest/fastest solution is of course to replace this single pipe now & here, then see what next MOT brings up, and THEN decide ...
My guess this pipe is approx £15, and would be feasible to replace within a couple of hrs, if the BxBodger scenario is not getting too bad ...
The pipe in question is connected to a 4way union on the underbody frametube, not too bad to access if sparewheel and cradle is removed.
Simply cut the old pipe as close as possible to the union nuts, allowing for a socket reaching over the union nuts. That gives you the best odds removing the bits.
ONLY use 6edged snuggly fitting clean sockets, preferably the "round corner" type !!!
Remember to put (new LHM wetted) seals on the pipe ends, NOT in the ports where pipes are located.
Observe cleanliness ...
Then do the Citaerobics on completion.
Got carried away and forgot the topic -
Donno why the Cit garage said "unheard of".
I'd say that all pipings underbody on BX'es are equally exposed to corrosion.
As BxBodger writes, it may end up in some very fiddly fighting ...
Cheapest/fastest solution is of course to replace this single pipe now & here, then see what next MOT brings up, and THEN decide ...
My guess this pipe is approx £15, and would be feasible to replace within a couple of hrs, if the BxBodger scenario is not getting too bad ...
The pipe in question is connected to a 4way union on the underbody frametube, not too bad to access if sparewheel and cradle is removed.
Simply cut the old pipe as close as possible to the union nuts, allowing for a socket reaching over the union nuts. That gives you the best odds removing the bits.
ONLY use 6edged snuggly fitting clean sockets, preferably the "round corner" type !!!
Remember to put (new LHM wetted) seals on the pipe ends, NOT in the ports where pipes are located.
Observe cleanliness ...
Then do the Citaerobics on completion.
They are prone to break at this point if rear sphere replacement isn't approached in a cautious enough manner, as the cylinders have a tendency to rotate while the pipes tend to resist it....
A replacement black-plastic-coated steel pipe is about £5 + VAT AFAIR. Recovery and labour may add considerably more, methinks. As a DIY job it's reasonably straightforward, so long as the car can be lifted and supported safely, and the old pipe union removed without mangling the rear suspension cylinder. A long 8mmm socket SHOULD be sufficent to remove the union, but plenty of pre-removal lubrication with something penetrating is advisable. If the rest of the pipes are grey-metal in appearance, they are likely to be not far behind...
A replacement black-plastic-coated steel pipe is about £5 + VAT AFAIR. Recovery and labour may add considerably more, methinks. As a DIY job it's reasonably straightforward, so long as the car can be lifted and supported safely, and the old pipe union removed without mangling the rear suspension cylinder. A long 8mmm socket SHOULD be sufficent to remove the union, but plenty of pre-removal lubrication with something penetrating is advisable. If the rest of the pipes are grey-metal in appearance, they are likely to be not far behind...
Thanks, everyone!
Sorry to ask a very basic question, but does that shield thingie that surrounds the cylinder detatch easily? I see that I could get a long 8mm down through a hole in it if I snip the pipe.
Anyway, someone else will be playing with this tomorrow.
The K-reg BX 1.7 in the house opposite is gourgeous, and is reduced to £650.00 with 2 owners and FSH. I'm almost tempted...I've been admiring it for about a year...
rg
Sorry to ask a very basic question, but does that shield thingie that surrounds the cylinder detatch easily? I see that I could get a long 8mm down through a hole in it if I snip the pipe.
Anyway, someone else will be playing with this tomorrow.
The K-reg BX 1.7 in the house opposite is gourgeous, and is reduced to £650.00 with 2 owners and FSH. I'm almost tempted...I've been admiring it for about a year...
rg
FSH and BXs is a funny issue. It's more down to whether the right jobs have been done, and when. FSH may just mean that the bodywork and drivetrain have been maintained, while the hydraulics, rear arms etc. have been left to look after themselves. You can tell this best by looking the car over (see BX DIY website checklist).
Be aware that BXs, even late turbodiesel estates, have no value in the UK price guides now, other than the the sort of MOT/Tax equation on the "Bangernomics" website, and are being given away by some people. On the other hand, it's all in the eye of the beholder, and a good BX has plenty of "utility" value as far as I'm concerned.
Be aware that BXs, even late turbodiesel estates, have no value in the UK price guides now, other than the the sort of MOT/Tax equation on the "Bangernomics" website, and are being given away by some people. On the other hand, it's all in the eye of the beholder, and a good BX has plenty of "utility" value as far as I'm concerned.
Oh, and the "thingie" doesn't shift easily - in fact AFAIR you need to take the sphere off to even think about it (not advisable, as full hyd. pressure needed to "crack" it first). With the hydraulic feed broken/snipped off a long 8mm socket or 8mm socket on an extension will fit down through the pipe-feed hole in the housing for the sphere/cylinder.