bosch Stop solenoid on my citroen xantia

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 28 Apr 2004, 21:04

have been having this problem with my xantia now for a couple of months, turning the ignition off and the engine not cutting out. then the other day i tried to start the car and it won't start, talk about one extreem to another. anyway pretty sure its the stop solenoid. the problem being i cant get at it cos there is a plastic box covering it any ideas on how to remove it or at least what it is before i beat it up!
cheers
Tom

Post by **RichardW** » 28 Apr 2004, 21:40

Tom,
It does sound like the stop solenoid. What age is the car? If it's 97 or later then it will have an immobiliser and the solenoid is 'protected' by a plate bolted on with shear head bolts. I understand the only way to remove it is to remove the injection pump and drill the bolts out [:0] Pre '97 the usual Citroen procedure of skinned fingers and brute force should be enough...!

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 28 Apr 2004, 21:50

thanks Richard, the car is a N plate think thats about 97! it does have an imobiliser so it looks like its goning to be a fun weekend, any tips

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 28 Apr 2004, 22:02

N reg is 1995/1996 I think.

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 28 Apr 2004, 22:05

ok, but it still has an immobiliser its a 1.9TD SX.

Richard Gallagher · Post by **Richard Gallagher** » 29 Apr 2004, 01:18

Are you sure it has an immobiliser i.e. a keypad in the centre console? Because at that age, I bought one brand new in September 95, the immobiliser was only standard on petrol versions.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 29 Apr 2004, 05:40

Have you checked to see if there aren't two seperate faults at large, one being the solenoid and the other being air in the system, have you tried priming it before starting.
If it is the (genuine citroen) immobiliser the (starting) fault can also be in the electronic module fitted under the security shield.
Dave

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 29 Apr 2004, 14:12

it has a keypad console fitted for the imobilliser, allready thought about the air in the system and gave the system a prime using the hand pump which i replaced when i found it had a leak at one end.
Tom

AWG · Post by **AWG** » 29 Apr 2004, 23:15

My October '95 N estate has a keypad and it isn't petrol.
Although it's Hydractive II I haven't convinced myself that it has 8 spheres (4 for the corners, 2 for front and rear center, 1 anti-sink and 1 accumulator) but then it took me a while to notice the accumulator. Or could it have fewer?

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 30 Apr 2004, 04:36

You'll need an obstruction spanner to get at the bottom pump mounting flange nut, especialy if aircon is present, might be a bit easier if not but have a gander first.
A puller the remove the pump pulley while in situ, older pumps had one fastened to the pulley, later ones do not, threads in the pulley to accept the puller bolts is 7mm x 1mm (not common) bolts need to be in the order of 40mm long depending on the thicknes of the plate used as the puller.
If the engine needs a timing belt any time soon this the ideal oppertunity to get one on, if not the belt can be left undisturbed by screwing two 8mm x 1.25mm x 50mm bolts through the pump pulley and into the pump mounting bracket, this will keep it all in place while the pump is removed, note how the pump will twist against internal spring pressure on removal so as this position can be repeated for refitting.
Go to some trouble to make sure that no dirt what so ever can enter the pump via the open pipe connections, block them off securely.
When the pump is off, three of the five shear head bolts are best removed by punching them around with a dull centre punch, a sharp one will just plough the heads up, one of the five is deeply recessed and must be drilled out, the other one is well exposed and can be removed with a good pair of mole or vice grips.
I did this a while ago to change my stop solenoid and replaced the special bolts with standard socket cap screws (allen headed bolts) the thread is 6mm x 1mm, can't remember the lengths off hand but have some spare ones about so can look for them if needed.
Don't remove all four corner screws in the distributor head at the same time, allways leave one in or the spring pressure behind the distributor may push the head off and things will fall out.
Some security shelds had a spring tension pin (roll pin) holding it in place besides the shear head bolts, there is virtualy no option if this is fitted but to use an angle grinder to get the shield off, great care must be taken if this is the case, if you are lucky though there will be a torx head screw at this location.
The electronic module is clamped to the solenoid by small torx head screws, make sure the area around the solenoid is clean before unscrewing it, recovering the plunger and spring as you do so.
Dave

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 30 Apr 2004, 14:10

cheers for the help Dave, im going out now to give it a go

mseymour · Post by **mseymour** » 30 Apr 2004, 14:18

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AWG</i>

My October '95 N estate has a keypad and it isn't petrol.
Although it's Hydractive II I haven't convinced myself that it has 8 spheres (4 for the corners, 2 for front and rear center, 1 anti-sink and 1 accumulator) but then it took me a while to notice the accumulator. Or could it have fewer?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hydractive II has eight spheres.
One for each strut, front centre, rear centre, anti-sink and accumulator.

AWG · Post by **AWG** » 30 Apr 2004, 22:10

Thanks mseymour - now for a tool [:p]

stressed Tom · Post by **stressed Tom** » 20 May 2004, 22:05

anyone got any wiring diagrams for the xantia sx 1.9TD including the imobiliser!