Our zx1.9td has developed a wobble when travelling at speeds over 40ish. It feels like the car is not responding as it should and that it might veer or something worse. This is obviously a bit of a worry!
Havig looked at the tyres I noticed that the inside of the thread is wearing out far more than the outside.It is second hand(we got it a couple of months ago- and no we didn't give it anywhere near enough of a check over-you learn by your mistakes etc) so the tyres may not have always belonged to this car. Any ideas?
Wobble!
Moderator: RichardW
There are lots of things that can cause wobble, for example:
- track rod ends
- front wheel bearings
- loose wheel nuts/bolts
- damaged wheel rims
- damaged tyres
- worn front suspension main ball joint
- worn rear wheel bearings
- worn rear trailing arm bearings
- worn front wishbone bearings
- loose/worn steering rack
- worn/loose rear subframe mountings
for a start . . .
//NiSk
- track rod ends
- front wheel bearings
- loose wheel nuts/bolts
- damaged wheel rims
- damaged tyres
- worn front suspension main ball joint
- worn rear wheel bearings
- worn rear trailing arm bearings
- worn front wishbone bearings
- loose/worn steering rack
- worn/loose rear subframe mountings
for a start . . .
//NiSk
If the tyres are wearing on the inside then its a sign of excessive toe-out. Normally if this is the case I find that if I walk around the front of the car with the steering set straight the front wheels can be seen to be pointing outwards. for a better check try lining them up with the rear wheels. There should be a small amount of toe out but this should be hardly noticeable.
The intention of setting the wheels with a little toe-out is so that when the linkage is under tension as on acccceleration the wheels should be parallel. It seems likely to me that you have a ball joint failure and the tracking is changeing on the change fron overun to drive. This should be noticeable if you grasp the front and rear of the wheel and try and push/pull on it. you may even be able to detect play with the wheel on the ground. Be careful if you jack it up that the suspension dropping doesn't put tension on the joint and disguise any slack (I don't think it will)
Other wear points could be ball joint at bottom of strut, inner rack joints, loose rack, siezed strut top bearings (usually knock)
Jeremy
The intention of setting the wheels with a little toe-out is so that when the linkage is under tension as on acccceleration the wheels should be parallel. It seems likely to me that you have a ball joint failure and the tracking is changeing on the change fron overun to drive. This should be noticeable if you grasp the front and rear of the wheel and try and push/pull on it. you may even be able to detect play with the wheel on the ground. Be careful if you jack it up that the suspension dropping doesn't put tension on the joint and disguise any slack (I don't think it will)
Other wear points could be ball joint at bottom of strut, inner rack joints, loose rack, siezed strut top bearings (usually knock)
Jeremy
How much MOT is left on the car? It may be worth your while if you are not sure what to look for to take the car into your local testing station and get an MOT done; this should pick up on any wear problems in the suspension or steering, so you will at least know where to start.
I know a lot of people moan about the MOT but it's the best £40 odd quids woth of motoring related money you can spend in my view. Not bad value for a full safety diagnosis of your car.............
I know a lot of people moan about the MOT but it's the best £40 odd quids woth of motoring related money you can spend in my view. Not bad value for a full safety diagnosis of your car.............