Closely following advice I was recently given through this site, I have just purchased a 5dr 1996 ZX 1.9D. It has 105k, cost me £700. £80 got me a 12 month MOT, I'm very pleased so far!
The only drawback was the lack of service history. I bought it from a guy who was selling on behalf of his mate who has moved to france, and hence I couldn't talk to him. I now therefore intend to give the car a full service. Fuel, air and oil filters should be alright, but I also want to change the cambelt. Anyone have any advice, on this procedure. I'm fairly mechanically experienced and minded, but have never actually changed a cambelt. How do I ensure non of the pulleys turn between old belt off and new one on. Is there a particuar position to have the engine in before taking the old belt off?
I also wanted to change the oil in the gearbox. I haven't looked yet but is the filler hole also a level indicator? I'll check the book but what is the best oil to use? Also wanted to flush the cooling system, any special techniques for this, or ways to ensure theres no trapped air on refilling?
Sorry there's so many questions, this is my first ZX and any hints or tips would be highly appreciataed!
ZX service advice
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Jim -
Depending on exact engine generation, it may be a simple question of locking all 3 axles with lock pins.
You can do without using this : Replacing cambelt procedure.
Depending on exact engine generation, it may be a simple question of locking all 3 axles with lock pins.
You can do without using this : Replacing cambelt procedure.
Congratulations on one of the best car purchases you'll ever make (if you get a good-un that is).
If you stay on top of the servicing and do a bit of preventative maintanence, the 1.9D goes on and on and one forever for next to no running costs.
Anders has pointed you at the cambelt changing procedures. It your mileage, examine VERY closely the condition of the cambelt tensioner and water pump. Unless they're perfect, and likely to stay that way until the next belt change, get them changed out now, neither are expensive from GSF/Andyspares. While it's apart, you may as well change the alternator belt - again, just a few pennies, and a no-brainer while it's in bits.
Gearbox - the combined filler/ level plug is just what is says. The ONLY oil to use it the genuine BV stuff, again from GSF/Andyspares for around £3 a litre. My ZX had just had a Halfords service centre oil change before I got it and the change was apalling. A quick change back to BV and the box was like new again.
Have a search through the forums for advice on how to change the coolant. It's VERY important that the cooling system doesn't get neglected on these cars and you MUST use a header tank (AKA Cut off lemonade bottle) to bleed the system after a change. Don't use cheap coolant - either go for the genuine Citroen Antigel, or use a top class EG coolant such as Bluecol. Your heater matrix will last a lot longer, which is nice as it's a dash out job to replace it.
As part of your regular checks on the car, examine the radiator, the hoses and anything cooling system related for any dodgy looking areas, or any unexplained coolant loss. Its far better and cheaper in the long run to swap bits out a little early than just a little too late on the diesel Citroens.
Other bits to consider - change the brake fluid, but take extreme care that you don't shear off the bleed nipples on the calipers. If you get the old ones out sucessfully, it is worth replacing them with new ones, covered in copper grease!
Front brakes - strip and clean them up, making sure the pistons are not jammed and the pads are free in the calipers. This makes a big difference to their sharpness. Be prepared to do this fairly regularly.
Rear brakes. Strip, clean and examine them. If you've got the Bendix brakes, make sure the handbrake actuator arm is free to move on the shoe and not rusted solid. If you need to change the shoes, spend the extra fiver and buy the genuine Bendix shoes (GSF again) rather than the Lucas copies you may be offered.
Rust - they generally don't. But still hose out the rear wheel arches and have a good look around there. Make good any loose paint and underseal you find. Same advice for the horizontal floor sections behind the rear wheels.
Exhaust - have a look at the exhaust where the front pipe bends upwards near to where it bends up to mate with the back box. This is the lowest part of the pipe and gets sprayed with salty water off of the roads. This is embarassing when it breaks (don't ask....)
Clean up the earths for the headlamps. It makes the lights brighter and prevents "one eyed monster" syndrome.
Finally, the genuine Purflex oil filters are only about £3 from GSF. Change them at every oil change. My ZX D likes either semi or fully synthetic oil, and runs noticeably smoother on that than it does on mineral.
Enjoy your car. Mine's been brilliant.
If you stay on top of the servicing and do a bit of preventative maintanence, the 1.9D goes on and on and one forever for next to no running costs.
Anders has pointed you at the cambelt changing procedures. It your mileage, examine VERY closely the condition of the cambelt tensioner and water pump. Unless they're perfect, and likely to stay that way until the next belt change, get them changed out now, neither are expensive from GSF/Andyspares. While it's apart, you may as well change the alternator belt - again, just a few pennies, and a no-brainer while it's in bits.
Gearbox - the combined filler/ level plug is just what is says. The ONLY oil to use it the genuine BV stuff, again from GSF/Andyspares for around £3 a litre. My ZX had just had a Halfords service centre oil change before I got it and the change was apalling. A quick change back to BV and the box was like new again.
Have a search through the forums for advice on how to change the coolant. It's VERY important that the cooling system doesn't get neglected on these cars and you MUST use a header tank (AKA Cut off lemonade bottle) to bleed the system after a change. Don't use cheap coolant - either go for the genuine Citroen Antigel, or use a top class EG coolant such as Bluecol. Your heater matrix will last a lot longer, which is nice as it's a dash out job to replace it.
As part of your regular checks on the car, examine the radiator, the hoses and anything cooling system related for any dodgy looking areas, or any unexplained coolant loss. Its far better and cheaper in the long run to swap bits out a little early than just a little too late on the diesel Citroens.
Other bits to consider - change the brake fluid, but take extreme care that you don't shear off the bleed nipples on the calipers. If you get the old ones out sucessfully, it is worth replacing them with new ones, covered in copper grease!
Front brakes - strip and clean them up, making sure the pistons are not jammed and the pads are free in the calipers. This makes a big difference to their sharpness. Be prepared to do this fairly regularly.
Rear brakes. Strip, clean and examine them. If you've got the Bendix brakes, make sure the handbrake actuator arm is free to move on the shoe and not rusted solid. If you need to change the shoes, spend the extra fiver and buy the genuine Bendix shoes (GSF again) rather than the Lucas copies you may be offered.
Rust - they generally don't. But still hose out the rear wheel arches and have a good look around there. Make good any loose paint and underseal you find. Same advice for the horizontal floor sections behind the rear wheels.
Exhaust - have a look at the exhaust where the front pipe bends upwards near to where it bends up to mate with the back box. This is the lowest part of the pipe and gets sprayed with salty water off of the roads. This is embarassing when it breaks (don't ask....)
Clean up the earths for the headlamps. It makes the lights brighter and prevents "one eyed monster" syndrome.
Finally, the genuine Purflex oil filters are only about £3 from GSF. Change them at every oil change. My ZX D likes either semi or fully synthetic oil, and runs noticeably smoother on that than it does on mineral.
Enjoy your car. Mine's been brilliant.
Hi Citman -
The synthetic oils have un-doubtly better lubrication performance, which then gives problems with the syncro rings in a gearbox, as these relies on friction !
That's why your clunky gearchanges !
Stick to the BV 75W-80 gearoil as recommanded from Citroen. Synthetics will not give you "performance" in a gearbox [8D]
The synthetic oils have un-doubtly better lubrication performance, which then gives problems with the syncro rings in a gearbox, as these relies on friction !
That's why your clunky gearchanges !
Stick to the BV 75W-80 gearoil as recommanded from Citroen. Synthetics will not give you "performance" in a gearbox [8D]
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Stuart McB
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Must say the purflux filters are so cheap from GSF there's no piont in going any where else. I also use the GSF TD oil on my ZX and it run's like silk hardly any topping up unlike that nasty stuff halfords use. As for the gear box I can say it does take 2 litres and again the right stuff from GSF is so cheap why go any where else. Coolant while it's out you might aswell change the thermostat. The header take is the most sure way of not getting air bubbles in the system. I found that the bottle that gearbox oil comes in is very close to the same size as the filler next on the rad. Just give it a really good clean first.
Thank you arry b for some great advice, have printed it out and are working my way through.
Have come to do the cambelt and are stuck on the crank pulley. It looks like this has to come off to get the cambelt cover off and the new belt in. Whats the best way to get the pulley bolt undone? Is it left hand thread?
Have come to do the cambelt and are stuck on the crank pulley. It looks like this has to come off to get the cambelt cover off and the new belt in. Whats the best way to get the pulley bolt undone? Is it left hand thread?
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Dave Burns
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No its not a left hand thread, the problem is that the bolt has locking compound on the threads and this makes them difficult to remove when cold, run the engine to operating temperature if you can, though it sounds like its a bit late for this advice, don't want to worry you but this bolt has been known to snap, though the ones I've had to do cold have come out ok.
I would resist cobbleing something up and operating the starter to loosen it, thats plain silly but IIRC has be offered as a method of undoing it on here before.
If you have got a good quality 22mm socket and some long bars you should get through it, put the car in fifth and get someone to press the footbrake, or lock the srarter ring gear with something if you can.
Keep us posted
Dave
p.s have you sussed the r/h engine mounting, that has to come off too so the engine needs supporting.
I would resist cobbleing something up and operating the starter to loosen it, thats plain silly but IIRC has be offered as a method of undoing it on here before.
If you have got a good quality 22mm socket and some long bars you should get through it, put the car in fifth and get someone to press the footbrake, or lock the srarter ring gear with something if you can.
Keep us posted
Dave
p.s have you sussed the r/h engine mounting, that has to come off too so the engine needs supporting.
Jim
This is a different way of doing it - I haven't tried it myself and I make no recommndation at all.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=6572
Jeremy
This is a different way of doing it - I haven't tried it myself and I make no recommndation at all.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=6572
Jeremy
Dave, I have only taken some covers off so should still be able to run the engine. Assuming I manage to remove the crank pulley would it be adviseable to put loctite on the bolt when replacing it?
Jeremy, a friend also suggested this technique. I may give it a go, but turn the engine over by hand as I cut along the belt. Think I best mark the belt and pulleys as suggested earlier as back up though!
Jeremy, a friend also suggested this technique. I may give it a go, but turn the engine over by hand as I cut along the belt. Think I best mark the belt and pulleys as suggested earlier as back up though!
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Simon Canfer
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