Nice sunny afternoon. I'll quickly adjust the clutch. Jack front of car onto axle stands. Slide under. 2 points appear to have potential. A 10mmAF nut on termination of clutch cable. A 15mmAF bolt, with hemispherical cavity in head that screws into a pressed steel elbow (virtually inaccessible, even with nifty stubby spanner).
Neither wants to turn in the direction that would take up clutch travel (out for the bolt, nor shortening the cable assembly).
Have I missed something ?
Or will my neighbour Brute Fawce be the clutch adjuster ?
BX Clutch Adjustment
Moderator: RichardW
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- (Donor 2022)
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Check the pedal travel first. Between full height and floor you should have between 130 and 150mm. If it's out, go underneath and you will be faced with two nuts at the end of the clutch cable. The first is a locknut. Hold the larger nut with a spanner whilst undoing the locknut. Turn the larger nut to adjust the cable length.
I believe John's description is only applicable on the later clutch lever arm setup, which have the clutch cable working directly on an actuator arm & rod, from below.
On earlier models you have the steel elbow (L-arm) transferring cable movement to clutch lever, all fitted on top of the box.
This L-arm is prone to fracture, sometimes in it's lower (invisible) part, only seen when removed. It's normal material fatigue that does this. Many owners have welded the L-arm as an OK repair.
The bolt with hemispheric head has a locknut, on the threads towards engine. The 10mm cable nut would only be to retain the vibration damper lump thingy.
The hemispheric bolt must be winded out (ccw) against the small connection rod.
On earlier models you have the steel elbow (L-arm) transferring cable movement to clutch lever, all fitted on top of the box.
This L-arm is prone to fracture, sometimes in it's lower (invisible) part, only seen when removed. It's normal material fatigue that does this. Many owners have welded the L-arm as an OK repair.
The bolt with hemispheric head has a locknut, on the threads towards engine. The 10mm cable nut would only be to retain the vibration damper lump thingy.
The hemispheric bolt must be winded out (ccw) against the small connection rod.
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Got better (usable) access by removing the black rubber air duct, and going in from above.
13mmAF locknut required an offset ring spanner.
2mm of thread put the clutch back on centre, but depressing clutch now requires more force.
Will check whether adjusting cable length can "normalize" the clutch next time I'm underneath.
13mmAF locknut required an offset ring spanner.
2mm of thread put the clutch back on centre, but depressing clutch now requires more force.
Will check whether adjusting cable length can "normalize" the clutch next time I'm underneath.