Xantia Hatchback 1996
Need a towbar for occasional light trailer use, nothing very heavy.
Both Witter & Towsure websites say that their products require drilling extra holes + cutting the bumper. I'm not at all happy about cutting the bumper and would prefer not to drill any additional holes if possible.
Can anyone make a recommendation of a towbar brand that is the least destructive to my car!
Thanks
Andy
Recommend a towbar (Xantia)
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Depends on what they mean by cutting; sometimes it's only trimming an inch or two off the underside (not visible). For some cars (not looked for a Xantia one yet, but will need to soon), there are 2 types; a flange type one (big bulky iron; the old fashioned type which normally require bumper surgery) and the new style "swan-neck" types (long tube like the detachable ones you see on newer cars); the swan neck ones tend to require either less or no bumper surgery. As for extra holes, it depends on how the manufacturer chooses to attach a tow bar to the chassis. A VW Bora I had didn't require any extra holes due to the rear bumper containing a steel girder which was just replaced by the towing bracket!
Andy, it also depends on what you are prepared to pay. I have a Bosal Citroen approved detachable which is neat secure and requires remarkably little surgery. Non in fact that I can see. It did however cost around £450 fitted!
The advantage of the detachables is the retention of the crumple zone and deformable bumber which means you don't damage the car behind when you touch them - even by accident[:I]
They also save the bumped shins, dirty trousers and car wash hiccups.
Robin
The advantage of the detachables is the retention of the crumple zone and deformable bumber which means you don't damage the car behind when you touch them - even by accident[:I]
They also save the bumped shins, dirty trousers and car wash hiccups.
Robin
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Andy,
I have fitted a Witter bar to a Xantia - I think only 2 holes are required, and they are not difficult / too damaging. We had to cut a piece about 1" wide by 2" long out of the bottom edge of the bumper to clear the riser for the bar. Worst bit id that you have to remove the entire bumper to get it on, which was not too bad on a 1 year old car, but might be 'tricky' on an 8 year old one!
As you are only going to tow small trailers a Towsure bar will be OK - we used not recommend them to people wanting to tow caravans as they are of 'less substantial' construction than Witter bars (or used to be 10 years ago anyway!).
Do a search on here for wiring a Xantia tow bar - I think there is a Citroen kit available which makes it much easier.
I have fitted a Witter bar to a Xantia - I think only 2 holes are required, and they are not difficult / too damaging. We had to cut a piece about 1" wide by 2" long out of the bottom edge of the bumper to clear the riser for the bar. Worst bit id that you have to remove the entire bumper to get it on, which was not too bad on a 1 year old car, but might be 'tricky' on an 8 year old one!
As you are only going to tow small trailers a Towsure bar will be OK - we used not recommend them to people wanting to tow caravans as they are of 'less substantial' construction than Witter bars (or used to be 10 years ago anyway!).
Do a search on here for wiring a Xantia tow bar - I think there is a Citroen kit available which makes it much easier.
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I fitted a Witter from a breakers yard onto my Xantia. The 2 holes you drill are either 10mm or 12mm and only through thinish metal ( battery drill no problem ). And the trimming to the bumper is only small as stated above. I only paid £20.00 for the towbar, ball and electrics, although I did fit a new socket. Its worth looking at your local brakers. I think I removed the towbar with the bumper on. But it has to come off to trim and drill the 2 holes. The other holes are already in the car, even if they are full of underseal.
neil
neil
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Ive fitted a towsure one to my '93 Xant hatchback, it only takes an hour or two at most. Removing rear bumper isnt that bigger job Haynes actually does a very good explanation of how to do it. Its a bit messy if you live on farm (as I do) and have to push your grubby mit through congealed cow muck and the like to get the the inner arch retaining bolts, yuck ! Only three 'additional' holes are required, two for the main towing bracket plate and one that goes through the boot floor into a predrilled hole (i.e. done during production) in the cross member. Then you have to slightly enlarge two other holes on the rear section of the car for the support struts of the towing bracket. I cant see how any other method would be less intrusive than this, I thought it was a fantastically elegant design that utilised as many already drilled holes as possible. Regards cutting the bumper, it really is only a small cut, if you get under the car there is already a section cut out to clear the towing eye, it just needs to be extended along towards the centre, you cannot see it unless you are under the car. Ive found the bracket to be very strong, I tow a large twin axle car trailer usuaully with an R5 on it and also have a motorbike bracket thing on it to carry my other toy which twists a lot and I have had no problems with it. If you want someone to fit I can do it for a few beer tokens, you can check out my handy work before hand if you like. The only messy bit is wiring it in, I used scotch locks [:I] but they work fine.
James
James
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I've looked today at Brink's swan neck type which runs at about £160 with diy fitting.
I'm almost certainly decided on the towsure one, did not realise at first they do two types the cheapo (CT265) and the EC type approved one (Ct265e).
Its not totally clear from the website but I think the type approved one should be better as it must use the manufacturer's designated anchorage points in order to get approval.
Thanks everyone for the replies
I'm almost certainly decided on the towsure one, did not realise at first they do two types the cheapo (CT265) and the EC type approved one (Ct265e).
Its not totally clear from the website but I think the type approved one should be better as it must use the manufacturer's designated anchorage points in order to get approval.
Thanks everyone for the replies
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You will almost certainly still have to drill through the lashing plates as you do with good quality heavy bars such as Witter, which also use the manufacturers mountings behind the bumper and in the rear wheel arches.
Check the main dealer price for the wiring kit, they may have come down to something reasonable if they have any left.
Dave
Check the main dealer price for the wiring kit, they may have come down to something reasonable if they have any left.
Dave
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Dave -
I agree about getting the proper wiring kit, but its £65.01 +VAT when I checked just now with the main dealer. That's about twice what I was prepared to pay, and I don't need the second socket for a caravan.
I've just been out to the car and pulled the carpet back, it looks like most of the wires are easily accessible, although I have read some horror stories about the foglight connection.
I now plan to fit my own multiplug behind the carpet, properly soldered into the loom and joints insulated with heatsink sleeving, that way it can be removed easily in future.
I'm thinking this type of connector should be OK:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... to/sp9.jpg
I'll either use a 6 way and separate earth, or maybe an 8 way and use two pins for earth, haven't made up my mind yet.
It will cost a hell of a lot less than the citroen kit and should be just as neat and reliable.
I agree about getting the proper wiring kit, but its £65.01 +VAT when I checked just now with the main dealer. That's about twice what I was prepared to pay, and I don't need the second socket for a caravan.
I've just been out to the car and pulled the carpet back, it looks like most of the wires are easily accessible, although I have read some horror stories about the foglight connection.
I now plan to fit my own multiplug behind the carpet, properly soldered into the loom and joints insulated with heatsink sleeving, that way it can be removed easily in future.
I'm thinking this type of connector should be OK:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... to/sp9.jpg
I'll either use a 6 way and separate earth, or maybe an 8 way and use two pins for earth, haven't made up my mind yet.
It will cost a hell of a lot less than the citroen kit and should be just as neat and reliable.