Hi in my efforts to track (sic) down the chugging problem I've going through the receipts to find any possible indicators of previous problems which may have affected the running. I came across a receipt for code reading which stated that code 6 was being read. Anyone know what that means?
The Pug/cit diagnostic manual doesn't give a code 6. Anyway they cleaned the contacts of the board and replaced it. This was when it had only done 14,500 miles, and I don't know if it would possibly reoccur.
My brother informs me that corrosion of the ecu contacts was a big problem across a number of cars especially earler models of Merc C series which shared the ecu with other manufacturers maybe because it was Bosch? Cleaning and varnishing was the remedy they applied.
XMV6 ecu code fault?
Moderator: RichardW
The codes are standardised - agreed by ECU manufacturers.
It may simply be a print error on your receipt - one digit missing.
Note that missing entries in the table below (for 2-digit codes) does not mean the code does not exist - may have been implemented on later ECU's.
Also the opposite applies : table may have entries on functions not implemented on your engine.
You may try if any code containing digit 6 is a sensible explanation.
BTW : anyone out there knows what code 25 means when read out from an '89 BX19GTI ???
This table is from approx '90 on BX ECU's
11 Test End
12 Test Start
13 Air temperature sensor
14 Coolant temperature sensor
15 Fuel pump relay feed
21 Throttle switch, idle contact
22 Idle speed control valve/motor feed
23 Idle speed control valve/motor
25 Variable inlet resonance L valve
26 Variable inlet resonance C valve
27 Vehicle speed sensor
31, 32 Wrong fuel/air mixture
33 Air flow or MAP sensor Throttle potentiometer (Mono-Jetronic)
34 Canister purge electrovalve
35 Throttle switch, full load contact
36 Oxygen sensor heating
41 Crank angle sensor
42 Injector
43 Anti-knock control
44 Knock sensor #1
45 Ignition coil #1
46 Turbo pressure valve
47 Turbo pressure regulator
51 Oxygen sensor #1
52 Oxygen sensor system control
53 Battery voltage
54 ECU
55 CO mixture potentiometer
56 Coded alarm system
57 Ignition coil #2
62 Knock sensor #2
63 Oxygen sensor #2
64 Fuel/air mixture control B
65 Cylinder sensor
71-76 Injector #1-#6
91 Injectors feed
It may simply be a print error on your receipt - one digit missing.
Note that missing entries in the table below (for 2-digit codes) does not mean the code does not exist - may have been implemented on later ECU's.
Also the opposite applies : table may have entries on functions not implemented on your engine.
You may try if any code containing digit 6 is a sensible explanation.
BTW : anyone out there knows what code 25 means when read out from an '89 BX19GTI ???
This table is from approx '90 on BX ECU's
11 Test End
12 Test Start
13 Air temperature sensor
14 Coolant temperature sensor
15 Fuel pump relay feed
21 Throttle switch, idle contact
22 Idle speed control valve/motor feed
23 Idle speed control valve/motor
25 Variable inlet resonance L valve
26 Variable inlet resonance C valve
27 Vehicle speed sensor
31, 32 Wrong fuel/air mixture
33 Air flow or MAP sensor Throttle potentiometer (Mono-Jetronic)
34 Canister purge electrovalve
35 Throttle switch, full load contact
36 Oxygen sensor heating
41 Crank angle sensor
42 Injector
43 Anti-knock control
44 Knock sensor #1
45 Ignition coil #1
46 Turbo pressure valve
47 Turbo pressure regulator
51 Oxygen sensor #1
52 Oxygen sensor system control
53 Battery voltage
54 ECU
55 CO mixture potentiometer
56 Coded alarm system
57 Ignition coil #2
62 Knock sensor #2
63 Oxygen sensor #2
64 Fuel/air mixture control B
65 Cylinder sensor
71-76 Injector #1-#6
91 Injectors feed
Hi Anders,
Thanks ver much for the codes. There are quite a few sixes there maybe I should throw dice to start. As the remedy applied by the Cit dealer first time round seemed to be to clean the contacts of the ecu would you hazard a guess at what may be causing the ecu problem apart of course from intermittent contact.
I noticed when stating from cold that there seems to be more noise than usual coming from underneath the car and when I attempt to rev and it cuts out at @1500-2000 rpm and drops back to idle I can get some post ignition?
In the receipts when the heads were done the manifolds were also re-done. During my reading of the recently aquired Russek manual, in the trouble shooting part where it analyses "car fails to rev " it states additional air ingress from inlet manifold? The other symptoms were the items which we have discussed already plugs leads and distributor which I have now eliminated.
Thanks ver much for the codes. There are quite a few sixes there maybe I should throw dice to start. As the remedy applied by the Cit dealer first time round seemed to be to clean the contacts of the ecu would you hazard a guess at what may be causing the ecu problem apart of course from intermittent contact.
I noticed when stating from cold that there seems to be more noise than usual coming from underneath the car and when I attempt to rev and it cuts out at @1500-2000 rpm and drops back to idle I can get some post ignition?
In the receipts when the heads were done the manifolds were also re-done. During my reading of the recently aquired Russek manual, in the trouble shooting part where it analyses "car fails to rev " it states additional air ingress from inlet manifold? The other symptoms were the items which we have discussed already plugs leads and distributor which I have now eliminated.
That chugging V6XM of yours I'm sure has set of quite som brain storms around [8D]
The biggest problem for the home mechanic is lack of spare parts for a quick try-if-better-now. To be honest - that's how most garages solves the problem - and then rush on to next vehicle - letting the clerk do up the (huge [:(]) bill.
What we have to do as DIY home mechanics - is using brains - and then AndyForum, XMclub etc. [8D]
Agree - it's throwing the dice for that code 6 [8)]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I noticed when stating from cold that there seems to be more noise than usual coming from underneath the car and when I attempt to rev and it cuts out at @1500-2000 rpm and drops back to idle I can get some post ignition?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The noise from underneath of car at cold start could be related to the normal engine starting process - it's hard to guess - unless you clearly can find some odd mechanical symptoms.
Post ignition ? - that's definately an abnormal indication to be pursued. Do you mean that firing occurs in the exhaust - or is it backfiring out thru the intake manifold ?
Or does it simply mean the engine runs on when ignition is off ?
IMPORTANT to have this interpreted !
The Russek term : "additional air ingress from inlet manifold" simply means an air leak in the intake manifold or it's seal. This air is not sensed by the intake airflow sensor - thus preventing extra fuel admitted by the ECU - leading to "car fails to rev ".
In fact the engine then runs very lean - which you clearly feel - as it won't rev up.
This is known to cause red glowing sparkplug electrodes - thus leading to post ignition if any fuel is admitted on ignition off.
Have you tried the startgas trick ?
- i.e. spraying a short burst of startgas over the intake manifold - with engine idle - close to engine block.
Any leak in the intake manifold would pick up some of the startgas - and engine would shortly rev up.
It is in fact possible to pinpoint a leak this away - using the startgas bursting smartly.
Be careful though - by nature startgas is HIGHLY flammable.
The biggest problem for the home mechanic is lack of spare parts for a quick try-if-better-now. To be honest - that's how most garages solves the problem - and then rush on to next vehicle - letting the clerk do up the (huge [:(]) bill.
What we have to do as DIY home mechanics - is using brains - and then AndyForum, XMclub etc. [8D]
Agree - it's throwing the dice for that code 6 [8)]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I noticed when stating from cold that there seems to be more noise than usual coming from underneath the car and when I attempt to rev and it cuts out at @1500-2000 rpm and drops back to idle I can get some post ignition?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The noise from underneath of car at cold start could be related to the normal engine starting process - it's hard to guess - unless you clearly can find some odd mechanical symptoms.
Post ignition ? - that's definately an abnormal indication to be pursued. Do you mean that firing occurs in the exhaust - or is it backfiring out thru the intake manifold ?
Or does it simply mean the engine runs on when ignition is off ?
IMPORTANT to have this interpreted !
The Russek term : "additional air ingress from inlet manifold" simply means an air leak in the intake manifold or it's seal. This air is not sensed by the intake airflow sensor - thus preventing extra fuel admitted by the ECU - leading to "car fails to rev ".
In fact the engine then runs very lean - which you clearly feel - as it won't rev up.
This is known to cause red glowing sparkplug electrodes - thus leading to post ignition if any fuel is admitted on ignition off.
Have you tried the startgas trick ?
- i.e. spraying a short burst of startgas over the intake manifold - with engine idle - close to engine block.
Any leak in the intake manifold would pick up some of the startgas - and engine would shortly rev up.
It is in fact possible to pinpoint a leak this away - using the startgas bursting smartly.
Be careful though - by nature startgas is HIGHLY flammable.
came to think about it Paul [8)]
- if that airflow sensor on your V6 does'nt work - then the ECU will never admit the required fuel from injectors !
- giving exactly the "car fails to rev" indication [:I]
On the other hand it would take quite a blast hole in the intake manifold (past the airflow sensor) to prevent the engine rev'ing.
That does in fact trace us down to a faulty airflow sensor - or it's associated cabling.
Norrie (noz) will know exactly where you find this device.
What do you guys reckon [?]
- if that airflow sensor on your V6 does'nt work - then the ECU will never admit the required fuel from injectors !
- giving exactly the "car fails to rev" indication [:I]
On the other hand it would take quite a blast hole in the intake manifold (past the airflow sensor) to prevent the engine rev'ing.
That does in fact trace us down to a faulty airflow sensor - or it's associated cabling.
Norrie (noz) will know exactly where you find this device.
What do you guys reckon [?]
Hi Anders,
Yep that's exactly what I was homing in on myself. I don't think it's inoperative completely just intermittent. I have another V6 which works fine - well did last time I started it (MOT failure 4 months ago) so I can swop known working parts. Regarding the code 6 I had another look at the receipt and it appears I miss-read it. It says that the diagnostic computer indicates a fault at connection 6 a totally different thing of course oops. Anyone know which connector is 6. (I am not a number I am a free man ha ha). Yes where is the air flow sensor anybody
^ .^ ? Meanwhile I will look in my Russek to see if it says.
Another receipt shows a new oxygen sensor at 46,*** miles. New throttle pot and new injection loom at 5**** something miles mega money +++ labour charges astronomical. Anyone ever paid £50 plus for 6 sparkplugs hee hee (sorry I'm rolling round on the floor now clutching my stomach and tears of laughter are rolling down my cheeks - it's been worth buying this car just for the entertainment value just as well since I can't go anywhere in it yet). If I sell this car the spares would be worth a fortune on their own as their all CIT main dealer and they look like they did the day they came out of the box.
Yep that's exactly what I was homing in on myself. I don't think it's inoperative completely just intermittent. I have another V6 which works fine - well did last time I started it (MOT failure 4 months ago) so I can swop known working parts. Regarding the code 6 I had another look at the receipt and it appears I miss-read it. It says that the diagnostic computer indicates a fault at connection 6 a totally different thing of course oops. Anyone know which connector is 6. (I am not a number I am a free man ha ha). Yes where is the air flow sensor anybody
^ .^ ? Meanwhile I will look in my Russek to see if it says. Another receipt shows a new oxygen sensor at 46,*** miles. New throttle pot and new injection loom at 5**** something miles mega money +++ labour charges astronomical. Anyone ever paid £50 plus for 6 sparkplugs hee hee (sorry I'm rolling round on the floor now clutching my stomach and tears of laughter are rolling down my cheeks - it's been worth buying this car just for the entertainment value just as well since I can't go anywhere in it yet). If I sell this car the spares would be worth a fortune on their own as their all CIT main dealer and they look like they did the day they came out of the box.