Xantia running hot

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Homer
Posts: 1503
Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
Location: Yorkshire
My Cars: Current:
Volvo V60 D4 180

Previous:
BX16RS (two of),
BX19TZI,
Xantia 2.0i saloon,
Xantia 2.0 Exclusive CT turbo Break,
Peugeot 807 2.0 HDi 110,
Renault Grand Scenic, 2.0 diesel (150bhp)
C5 X7 2.0 HDi 160 which put me off French cars possibly forever
x 16

Xantia running hot

Post by Homer »

OK, I give up with the search system.
Car - Xantia 2.0 Petrol turbo, '98 (post facelift model).
The symptoms, Water temp rises, fan cuts in at low speed, water temp continues to rise, fan switches to high speed, temp continues to rise. Putting the heater on full brings down the temp slightly.
Suddenly started doing this yesterday while my wife was out. Luckily she has completed the advanced driving a poorly car course and got home ok although rather warm having the heater on full blast.
Radiator was replaced about 18 months ago after a leak and the car has been fine since and it isn't losing coolant. My first suspicion was the thermostat, the radiator top pipe gets warm before the engine gets to operating temperature so it is obviously opening at least to an extent. All bleed screws leak water when cracked open.
Could it be the dreaded water pump?
If it is merely clogged up it seems strange to be working fine in the afternoon and start overheating in the evening. I would have expected a more gradual rise in the running temp.
One other thing, the engine (oil) temp stays normal throughout.
Any ideas?
Homer
Posts: 1503
Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
Location: Yorkshire
My Cars: Current:
Volvo V60 D4 180

Previous:
BX16RS (two of),
BX19TZI,
Xantia 2.0i saloon,
Xantia 2.0 Exclusive CT turbo Break,
Peugeot 807 2.0 HDi 110,
Renault Grand Scenic, 2.0 diesel (150bhp)
C5 X7 2.0 HDi 160 which put me off French cars possibly forever
x 16

Post by Homer »

OK, sat at work waiting for something to happen as usual on a Sunday night so I've had plenty of time to mess with the search function and finally came up with one post from Anders that seems to point to the thermostat.
Drove to work tonight (only 10 mins, I'm not lazy - you try getting to sleep after a 20 minute walk on a bracing Yorkshire morning) then sat in the carpark until the fan started on full pelt, temp kept rising so switched off and felt the rad. Top pipe was red hot as was the end of the rad where it goes in. only about a quarter of the rad suface was warm the output side was completely cold.
So there is obviously a circulation problem.
Going to try a new thermostat tomorrow if it's not that then it'll have to go somewhere because I don't have the time or facilities to do the water pump safely.
RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

I think either:
The impeller has fallen off your water pump - take one of the bleed screw caps right off with the engine running - the water should squirt a few inches in the air - if not pump is shot.
The thermostat is stuck partially open - this would account for the hose appearing to warm up gradually and only the top corner of the rad being hot.
Thinking about it, I reckon the second is more likely as if the water pump had gone west, then putting the heater on would also struggle to get the temp down, as there would be no flow through it.
Have you changed the 'stat yet?
jozivic
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Joined: 27 Oct 2003, 19:18
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Post by jozivic »

On my both Xantias (2.0 TCT and 2.0 VSX) there was the same problem. I must change thermostat. It is cheap (5-8€), but you have carefuly observe apropriate temperature on it (83 or 87°). The position of thermostat is under air filter, you can see three M5 inbus screws over triangle plastic output. Normaly you have to change rubber gasket also, packed with thermostat. Be carefuly, if machine is hot!! It is good measure, after filling with antifreeze liquid, to outlift the air with stadard procedure on heater hose (upper point of system), but you have to do it gently, with not so much force, it is plastic screw. After changing inspect water system level regularly (daily) for one week.[:)]
Homer
Posts: 1503
Joined: 26 Feb 2003, 10:52
Location: Yorkshire
My Cars: Current:
Volvo V60 D4 180

Previous:
BX16RS (two of),
BX19TZI,
Xantia 2.0i saloon,
Xantia 2.0 Exclusive CT turbo Break,
Peugeot 807 2.0 HDi 110,
Renault Grand Scenic, 2.0 diesel (150bhp)
C5 X7 2.0 HDi 160 which put me off French cars possibly forever
x 16

Post by Homer »

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jozivic</i>

you have to do it gently, with not so much force, it is plastic screw.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Oh, yes I have met the plastic screw before on a BX19, didn't think I had it tight enough so gave it a pinch with the pliers. Oops.[xx(]
Got up this afternoon (working nights), called my local parts supplier who don't have a stat listed for the turbo, just a general 2.0 8v one. GSF website no help either (could be operator error that though), or that other French car parts website (which timed out every time I clicked thermostat). Decided to pick one up for the sake of a few quid and compare the markings, stepped out of the door and the heavens opened. I took it as an omen. The car goes to a friendly local garage on my way home while I get some much needed sleep.[|)]
I'm pretty certain it's the thermostat, which would be a simple job if the turbo pipework didn't run right across the top of it[B)]. If it is then it shouldn't cost much to get put right, if it isn't it would have to go in anyway. And the car is needed later in the week.
And I still have the stinking cold I caught in January.
Thanks for the replies anyway.[^]
jozivic
Posts: 9
Joined: 27 Oct 2003, 19:18
Location: Slovenia
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Post by jozivic »

I know the output of TCT engine is oposite like 1,8 16V, that mean there is on the rear side of engine. I had some trouble with Garret so I can reach it from under and back on engine. There is small screw on turbo, which produce impossible rattle noise, exactly on 3000 rpm. If you unmount air intake filter you can directly reach the thermostate. On both my Xantias I also have to change wheel bar and electric valve, which is responsible for antisink and famous plastic which connect high corrector. But the major problem lies in heat radiator, on both Xantias also by 140.000 km, which is far the worse job to change it. If you got some kind of stink about mould in cabin you are in troubles. The replacement part cost 50€ only, but I am so bad in english to explain what all you have to do (this is job for good electrician).
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