ZX Driveshaft and ball joint

teabag · Post by **teabag** » 09 Mar 2004, 18:00

Just thought I'd share my experience for others.
Decided to change my 1.9d zx nearside driveshaft as I had an outer joint go. Got a whole driveshaft as they were cheap and less hassle. Thought I'd change the ball joint while I was at it.
The Hub nut was not the pain I thought it would be. A good 35mm socket an 2ft bar sorted it out. The ball joint pinch bolt was out no problem - thought I'd be home and dry before lunch time. However, the ball joint would not separate from the carrier. I've done these on Fords before with no problem. It would not come out. I tried the chisel to widen the split in the hub. It moved so far and stuck. I removed the trackrod end to allow me to swivel and jiggle the thing free - no joy. In the Porters workshop manual for the 306, it suggests a large pole and lever under the body work.
I got my 6 foot scaffolding pole, put some wood between it and the car floor and levered the wishbone done. Out it popped! Felt like a bit of a bodger, but it worked. 3Hrs to remove a balljoint! The next time will be quicker.
The ball joint is held in with torx bolts (T40 from memory). The driveshaft came out in about 30 seconds, along with the gearbox oil.
The new shaft was back in within a minute.
Not sure of the valid technique for refilling the gearbox oil. I leveled the car and used a syringe. A small syringe so it took a while.
Now the car feels so much better and the clonks have gone.

Stuart McB · Post by **Stuart McB** » 10 Mar 2004, 01:22

Thanks for the info. Have recently picked up a clonk on my ZX drive shaft. Have decided however not to worry for the time being. The clonk isn't loud enough yet! [:D]
How much did you pay for your drive shaft? I've recently been quoted only £64.00 + VAT by a local recon motor factors.[:o)]

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 10 Mar 2004, 04:37

hi
recently replaced the passenger side driveshaft on my ZX. Cost £68 incl VAT for a reconditioned one. After removing the hub nut (long bar), removed the three ball joint bolts and the the old driveshaft could be pulled out and the new one put in. Some gearbox oil came out but the car was jacked up in an angle and the driveshaft replaced quickly so minimal loss of gerabox oil. Just topped it up for the time being will replace it at a later stage.

David W · Post by **David W** » 10 Mar 2004, 12:24

Teabag,
Having the balljoint taper "lock up" after moving the first bit is very common. It is hard to see but what happens is that the natural suspension forces twists the taper over slightly and locks it tight...the harder you lever the more it locks. Sometimes even a long bar still appears to fail.
Two steps are needed. First to squirt some oil (not WD40) onto the top of the taper after taking the clamp bolt out. Then to get an assistant to push the hub in towards the car as you lever down, this should keep the twist off the taper and it will pop out in seconds with about 10% of the force.
Expanding the split in the hub doesn't seem to help much with this particular problem.
Same putting the taper back in. Get it just started and it may appear reluctant but push the hub towards the car and it will pop back up.
Must just mention it is best to buy a new clamp bolt before starting this job, they are often stretched by the time they've been off a couple of times in the life of the car.
David