My BX seems to sit a bit high in the front. I measured the distance between top of front tyre and front guard to be 95mm at idle and normal height setting. It looks like it should be about 20mm lower.
Is it easy to adjust it down a bit. The suspension is behaving perfectly and always sits at this height.
If I get the front up on ramps is it easy to see how to adjust it?
How easy is it to adjust ride height ?
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ScottFromNZ
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oilyspanner
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You adjust ride height by rotating the connection to HC which is clamped around the anti roll bar, get it on the ramps or over a pit is better, I think its an 11mm bolt loosen slightly and with the engine running and normal height selected tap the clamp to rotate it around the roll bar (I use a big screwdriver and a hammer)bounce the front up and down and allow to settle, someone will probably tell you which direction to rotate for up/down on this forum soon, easy to do but observe the usual precautions when under an oleo car.
Stewart
Stewart
Correct ride height rule of thumb :
Set the driving height exactly to the middle between lowest - highest points. Use any (rigid !) ref point on car to ground - marking up these points to get the same ref point each measurement.
Example : from front/rear wing edge to ground.
Front : tapping UPwards on clamp bolt LOWERS the front height
Rear : tapping DOWNwards on clamp bolt LOWERS the rear height.
By tapping means : EXACTLY light tapping ONLY [8D]
As a 1mm on clamp just about means 10mm on height [;)]
- now you know why the clamp should NOT be loosened to dangle on the bar !
Set the driving height exactly to the middle between lowest - highest points. Use any (rigid !) ref point on car to ground - marking up these points to get the same ref point each measurement.
Example : from front/rear wing edge to ground.
Front : tapping UPwards on clamp bolt LOWERS the front height
Rear : tapping DOWNwards on clamp bolt LOWERS the rear height.
By tapping means : EXACTLY light tapping ONLY [8D]
As a 1mm on clamp just about means 10mm on height [;)]
- now you know why the clamp should NOT be loosened to dangle on the bar !
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ScottFromNZ
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I measured the heights at full and low and then as suggested at normal setting giving plenty of time at each setting with the engine running for the levels to stabilise. I took several measurements at each height to ensure repeatable results.
It turns out that the ride height on normal is higher at the rear than at the front which was different to how it looks. I also measured from the ground on both sides to the bottom of the side trim strip at the rear of the rear doors and the front of the front doors. This confirms (I think) that the front is about 40mm lower than the rear and ties in with my other measurements.
So.... I have decided not to make any adjustments to the height correctors for now.
If I do adjust it I would probably drop both front and rear a bit.
It turns out that the ride height on normal is higher at the rear than at the front which was different to how it looks. I also measured from the ground on both sides to the bottom of the side trim strip at the rear of the rear doors and the front of the front doors. This confirms (I think) that the front is about 40mm lower than the rear and ties in with my other measurements.
So.... I have decided not to make any adjustments to the height correctors for now.
If I do adjust it I would probably drop both front and rear a bit.
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Johnno
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Hi Scott,
I did the front ride height on my BX some years ago and found that it was possible to get to the front clamp bolt from the top of the engine. It took some twisting of elbow and wrist but meant that I didn't need a pit or lift. A good rule of thumb is that the approximately correct height is where you can get three fingers on edge between the tyre and the wheel arch (depending on how fat your fingers are[:)]). Anders is sooo right about the small movement - I've just done the Xantia. Up and down, up and down... But it has made a great difference.
I did the front ride height on my BX some years ago and found that it was possible to get to the front clamp bolt from the top of the engine. It took some twisting of elbow and wrist but meant that I didn't need a pit or lift. A good rule of thumb is that the approximately correct height is where you can get three fingers on edge between the tyre and the wheel arch (depending on how fat your fingers are[:)]). Anders is sooo right about the small movement - I've just done the Xantia. Up and down, up and down... But it has made a great difference.
Johno
how did you do the xantia, do you have access to a pit ?
I'm pleased you got a good result, how much did you alter the height by and in which direction (up I presume).
I ask because I'm convinced that my xantia rides a little low. I did the haynes check and the rule of thumb check (normal mid way between max and min height). Both tests confirm ride height a little low maybe 10 - 12mm both front and rear. Doesn't sound much so I was wondering if it would actually make much difference.
Cit specialist I use has dissapointed me in as much he says his check is simply to compare the car with another xantia.
Anyway I'd like to play around with the height myself rather than pay for a one off adjustment but have not worked out how to get access to the underside of the car in safety.
Mark
how did you do the xantia, do you have access to a pit ?
I'm pleased you got a good result, how much did you alter the height by and in which direction (up I presume).
I ask because I'm convinced that my xantia rides a little low. I did the haynes check and the rule of thumb check (normal mid way between max and min height). Both tests confirm ride height a little low maybe 10 - 12mm both front and rear. Doesn't sound much so I was wondering if it would actually make much difference.
Cit specialist I use has dissapointed me in as much he says his check is simply to compare the car with another xantia.
Anyway I'd like to play around with the height myself rather than pay for a one off adjustment but have not worked out how to get access to the underside of the car in safety.
Mark
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Johnno
- (Donor 2022)
- Posts: 154
- Joined: 18 Feb 2004, 18:02
- Location: Milford, Godalming
- My Cars: C5 2.2 VTR + Nav 173
Mazda 6 2.2 Sports Nav Estate
Jaguar 3.8 MkII 1961
Ex 2007 C5 2.2 Estate
Ex 2003 C5 2.2 Estate
Ex Xantia 2.1 TD Exclusive
Ex BX 1.7 DTR
Ex BX 1.9 TRS - x 1
Mark,
No pit; I put the front up onto ramps. Not scientific, I know, as the instructions usually say "stand car on level ground". Fat lot of use, unless you are extremely thin and very brave. Assuming all Xantias are broadly similar, you should find the clamp very easy to get to, being just above the height corrector. Use an 11mm socket on a short extension. There is no nut on the bolt. The clamp may be difficult to move at first, although appearing very loose, but persevere. Use two hands; one pushing on the clamp using the socket and extension and one on the lever into the height corrector to prevent the clamp from twisting and binding. I took the view that, as the system adjusts for different road conditions and vehicle attitude, it was a case of determining how much relative difference you wanted and aim for that. In my case the height was about four/five fingers width from wheel to arch i.e, a bit high. As you move the clamp you will hear the height corrector operate, but remember that it may not be an instantaneous result. At this point it is a matter of judgement as to when you back off to stop the movement.
The whole operation took about half an hour. The car is now more compliant over the road and not having a nose-up attitude is visually more pleasant, both from inside and out.
The rear should be exactly the same process.
No pit; I put the front up onto ramps. Not scientific, I know, as the instructions usually say "stand car on level ground". Fat lot of use, unless you are extremely thin and very brave. Assuming all Xantias are broadly similar, you should find the clamp very easy to get to, being just above the height corrector. Use an 11mm socket on a short extension. There is no nut on the bolt. The clamp may be difficult to move at first, although appearing very loose, but persevere. Use two hands; one pushing on the clamp using the socket and extension and one on the lever into the height corrector to prevent the clamp from twisting and binding. I took the view that, as the system adjusts for different road conditions and vehicle attitude, it was a case of determining how much relative difference you wanted and aim for that. In my case the height was about four/five fingers width from wheel to arch i.e, a bit high. As you move the clamp you will hear the height corrector operate, but remember that it may not be an instantaneous result. At this point it is a matter of judgement as to when you back off to stop the movement.
The whole operation took about half an hour. The car is now more compliant over the road and not having a nose-up attitude is visually more pleasant, both from inside and out.
The rear should be exactly the same process.
Johnno - Would I be right in thinking that the BX you height-adjusted from above wasn't a turbodiesel model, like Scott's? It's possible on some petrol models, MIGHT be goer on a normally-aspirated diesel, but I'd say congratulations are really due if you could do it with the turbo/intercooler assembly in the way.
As ever, I'm very willing to be proved wrong...
As ever, I'm very willing to be proved wrong...
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ScottFromNZ
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Ride Height Adjustment
Having owned a '93 Xantia 1.9TD for 10 years, I upgraded to a '99 Xantia 2.0 HDi SX estate a few months ago.
The ride height was obviously a little high and the suspension stiffer than I was used to.
Thanks to the contributors to this thread - it gave me the confidence to have a go at sorting it out. It was one of those rare jobs that was easier than expected!
A couple of points though:
1. Anders - on my car, tapping the rear clamp bolt UP moves the suspension LOWER, the same as at the front.
2. It's really sensitive. I marked the initial position, and a movement of at most a millimeter dropped the suspension by 25mm.
3. The bolt only needs loosening a bit - otherwise when you tap it it tends to move back to where it started.
Regards
Martyn
The ride height was obviously a little high and the suspension stiffer than I was used to.
Thanks to the contributors to this thread - it gave me the confidence to have a go at sorting it out. It was one of those rare jobs that was easier than expected!
A couple of points though:
1. Anders - on my car, tapping the rear clamp bolt UP moves the suspension LOWER, the same as at the front.
2. It's really sensitive. I marked the initial position, and a movement of at most a millimeter dropped the suspension by 25mm.
3. The bolt only needs loosening a bit - otherwise when you tap it it tends to move back to where it started.
Regards
Martyn
Re: Ride Height Adjustment
Hi Martynmrjohnson wrote:A couple of points though:
1. Anders - on my car, tapping the rear clamp bolt UP moves the suspension LOWER, the same as at the front.
2. It's really sensitive. I marked the initial position, and a movement of at most a millimeter dropped the suspension by 25mm.
3. The bolt only needs loosening a bit - otherwise when you tap it it tends to move back to where it started.
Regards
Martyn
Ad 1) You are absolutely right. Because this thread was initiated on a BX, which has the rear HC located rearwards (on car) related to the ARB hook. This is opposite to the Xantia setup 8)
Ad 2) As the arm lenght : ball hook on ARB clamp to ARB center
- is quite longer than the HC ballhook arm movement
Ad 3) thats the method
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
....Guesswork !!
That's a method that might work if the other car is adjusted correctly, and in all probability its not. Also if he did not have another Xantia in the workshop it sounds like he would be scratching his head.Cit specialist I use has dissapointed me in as much he says his check is simply to compare the car with another xantia.