Gear selecting problems

[Sergeantcookie]

Hi guys, new here...

I have a citroen relay l3h2 on a 15 plate. Having a few issues with it.

The gear selecting seems to be encountering issues. 1st and 2nd 4th 6th and reverse select fine. 3rd is a problem from 2nd but selects fine if I pull the reverse collar up first, but dropping down from 4th to 3rd has no issues at all. Selecting 5th gear from 4th is no problem, however from 6th to 5th is pretty much a no no. Any ideas? Plus in 1st it sounds like when you are in reverse but in 2nd it sounds fine.

Also there is a clunking noise coming from somewhere I'm guessing the wheels area, not sure whether front or back, when braking at low speed, like doing a 3 point turn or similar.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[white exec]

Just wondering about this very cold weather, and whether it has the correct grade of oil in the box?
Should be (Total Transmission 8) 75W-80 GL4 (and not a GL5, which can result in more difficult synchromesh action).
Could be something more serious, of course.
Is the clutch properly adjusted/functioning? Bite point?

[Sergeantcookie]

Everything works as it should, biting point fine, no crunching in gear changes. It's only started in the last week or so.

[white exec]

It sounded as if some of the changes were baulky, hence query about clutch and oil.
Could the gear change control cables/mechanism have gone sloppy, so the 'gate' isn't operating cleanly?

Pop up your VIN, so we know the exact Relay variant.

[Sergeantcookie]

Vin is VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

[myglaren]

Engine/gearbox mountings worn perhaps?

[Sergeantcookie]

Spoke to a mechanic, he's saying it's the bearings in my gearbox and basically the gearbox is collapsing

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so you have the RELAY III Van Long Wheelbase H2 TYPE 16 2.2 HDI 130 PUMA C with Manual gearbox 6.

Here are a few preliminary checks:

This help in diagnosis applies to vehicles fitted with a non-piloted manual gearbox and a hydraulic clutch control.
Conditions of application:

• Stiff spots appear
• Creak
• Difficulty changing gear (In all gears)
• Fault present, engine hot and/or engine cold
• Fault present permanently or only at high revs

Nature of the fault:

• Difficult or impossible to engage gears
• Impossible to engage or disengage a gear
• Jumping out of gear(s) in

Conditions under which the fault appears:

• When stopped or when driving
• Engine hot, cold or irrelevant

Driving style:

• Does the customer rest his hand on the gear lever knob while driving ? (risk of damage to the synchronisers)
• Does the customer rest his foot on the clutch pedal while driving in town ?
• Is his driving position suitable ? (seat too far back, not using the clutch properly, etc.)

Gear control cables
The ball joints must be correctly coupled, gearbox end and cabin end (with neither play nor tightness).
The gear control sleeve stops must be correctly attached, gearbox end and cabin end.
Inside the cabin, work the gear lever to check the movement of the ball joints on the gearbox.

Check:

• The routing of the gear control cables (Kinking - Interference - Seizing)
• The gear lever gaiter (Interference with the lever, too short, too long)
• The behaviour of the gear lever (holding the gaiter in place and reducing the cable travels)
• If a ball joint is detached/damaged : Replace the gear control cable.
• If the gear control cables are kinked/torn : Replace the gear control cable.

Pedal bracket
Check the pedal gear:

• Fixing of the servo spring
• Deformation of the pedal
• Clutch pedal (poor adjustment of play)
• Absence of tight spots on the clutch pedal travel
• Attachment of the ball joint of the hydraulic master cylinder on the clutch pedal

If there is a fault on the clutch pedal: Replace the pedal gear.
If the hydraulic clutch master cylinder is detached: Replace the hydraulic clutch master cylinder.
If there is an absence of servo (excessive pedal effort required): Replace the pedal gear.

Hydraulic clutch control

• Check for presence of a leak on the hydraulic declutch control.
• Observe and identify the leak area.
• Replace the component at the origin of the leak (Transmitter - Receiver - Pipes).
• If there is a leak on the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder or on the bleed screw, check that the screw is closed.
• If the bleed screw is well sealed: Replace the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
• If there is any leak on a union between two elements of the hydraulic control or pipes: Make sure that the components have been correctly fitted and that they are in good condition (seal damaged, clip detached).
• If there is still a leak, though the fitting is correct and the components are not damaged: Replace the 2 faulty components.

Check the travel of the hydraulic slave cylinder or of the clutch cable, from the declutched position to the clutched position.

Check the travel of the hydraulic slave cylinder or of the clutch cable, from the declutched position to the clutched position.
Note: Two people are required to perform the following operation.

Clutch fork :
"a" : Applied position
"b" : Released position
Press the clutch pedal.
Measure the travel "A" of the hydraulic slave cylinder or of the clutch cable.
Compare the values read with those in the tables below.
Note: you have the ML6C gearbox.

Travel "A"
Type of gearbox	Cable control	Hydraulic control
ML5C - ML6C - MLGU	Not equipped	20 mm

[Homer]

Driving style:

• Does the customer rest his hand on the gear lever knob while driving ? (risk of damage to the synchronisers)

Really?

Where else am I going to rest my left arm?!?!?!??

[white exec]

Passenger's knee?

[Paul-R]

You don't rest it. You keep both hands on the steering wheel at ten-to-two position.

Or so the Highway Code would have it. Personally I rest my left elbow on the centre armrest.