BX struts again

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 19:50

Just in the middle of taking the front struts off the grey one, but it would appear I don't have a crrectly sized deep set socket for the nut that claps the strut to the hub.
Any ideas what size this is? I've a feeling it's 16mm but would like this confirmed before I go and buy a new socket.
thanks chaps[:)]

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 04 Mar 2004, 20:29

Yep, sixteen. Did you have any joy with the knocking noise?

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 20:32

Yes Tom, I sorted it by pulling a rag under the sphere. It's not by any means a long term fix, but atleast it's stopped the knocking.
I'm replacing the leaky struts on the grey one at the moment, as well as replacing the caliper.
Those 19mm caliper securing bolts are very tight. I'm just about to take a trip to out local tool merchants to buy a snap bar...give it some leverage!
Bit off topic, but does anybody have a spare(non-leaky) caliper they'd be preapred to sell?
Failing that, a trip to the scrappy's is in order![:D]

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 04 Mar 2004, 20:39

i should have a few BX calipers probably even 16v ones...
Andy

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 21:59

Whereabout are you andy?
Are the 16 valve calipers the same as the TZD's?[:D]

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 22:02

Just been to the local breakers to try and source a replacement strut...And guess what? Just one 16 valve with blatantly leaky struts[:(]
Do I bite the bullet and buy new struts, or hold out for some good second hand? I suppose really If I decide to buy new then I should replace both sides...What do you think?[:)]
One more thing... The 16 valve in the breakers(less calipers) still has it's clocks. Will these work in my TZD? I erally like the idea of a temp gauge.[;)]

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 04 Mar 2004, 22:36

Of course the clocks won't work as they only fit GTIs (No, I'd never get away with it...) Oh all right then...
Yes, the clocks will work. For that reason do not divulge the location of the yard to any diesel owner who should innocently enquire unless you are prepared to kill them. Instructions on BX Diy site in links
As for the struts, you can rebuild them yourself with a seal kit (£7 ish, Citroen and a new slide bearing c.£27, same source.)You do not need the strut kit which is a further 27 quid as the other innards will be ok. You'll need a big pair of stilsons a vice and a blowlamp. I've done them. they are a fair bit of work but it is cheap enough. Look back to my postings on the subject between um, June and October last year. It is all there.

DLM · Post by **DLM** » 04 Mar 2004, 22:45

Struts should be reconditioned before putting back on - this should sort out the leaks as they're from the internal seals. Someone who's been through this process can advise. If you're buying scrap struts make it absolutely plain to the seller that you consider them to be only fit for reconditioning, and will only pay accordingly.
Do go for the temp gauge if at all possible for peace of mind - or alternatively as something else to fret about.....
The temp gauge will work + swap in IF both models have the modular
Veglia dash and not a unitary Jaeger one as found in some earkly GTis and 16vs (guess who's been caught out before), but I'd advise:
(1) Read up on the process on Gabor's DIY site
(2) Make sure you get the matching temp sender too from the 16v (underneath the distributor?) - you'll have a much better chance of an accurate reading that way as Anders wisely advises: my personal experience bears his advice out.
Most other bits are fairly useless except as backup, notably the tacho which works on a different principle from a diesel one. The oil temperature gauge will only work if you substitute a 16v/GTi sump pan and its oil temperature sensor - rather too much work to justify it....

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 22:50

Thanks again Tom.[;)]
I was amzed how easily the struts came off. The passenger side driveshaft slid out slightly and leaked a hell of a lot of oil all over the drive[:(]
I pushed it back into place and it would appear that the leak has stopped. Is it likely I've done some damge to the seal, or is this type of drama commonplace? (you can tell I'm a newbie to all of this[8)])
Back to the clocks... Will the temp gauge work straight away or am I looking at yet more jiggery pokery![:D]

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 04 Mar 2004, 22:53

No, read the supplied link. Print off the whole site !
The rustproofing of the drive is normal like the blown gearbox if you don't top it up again...

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 04 Mar 2004, 23:09

Sorry for being a dumb ass, but which link?

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 04 Mar 2004, 23:44

OHMS 69 I have good struts and calipers for either side if you need them
Stewart

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 05 Mar 2004, 00:34

The link to Gabor's BX DIY site :
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/
- a MUST have (and stored) link to any BX owner [8D]

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 05 Mar 2004, 01:34

Stewart, whereabout are you? And how much do you want for the caliper? I'm going to buy new struts from Andyspares I think. I simply don't have the necessary tools to rebuild the existing ones. And If they'll last another 125,00 miles it'll be money well spent.

ohms69 · Post by **ohms69** » 05 Mar 2004, 13:04

When I remove the big 36mm nut from the top of the sphere mount will the struts come free?
If this is the case I think I should have left thesphere mount attached at the inner wing, undone the bignut with the strut in place and withdrawn it from the arch that way. I think it's going to be a pig to undo the nut without a vice to clamp the strut.[:)]