Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

I have been on the phone to Citroen and they said they had 2 water pump kits for my car.
1st genuine Peugeot cost around £209 as Marc described earlier and another they say it is not PSA but it is made to PSA standards £107.

I am planning to go do the £107 but only if it is good to last few thousand miles.

What do you think guys?
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by GiveMeABreak »

It will be like their service parts when you opt for a dealer ‘originals’ or ‘essentials’ service. Originals uses genuine PSA parts to original spec, where essentials uses equivalent parts. So it’s basically that. With timing kits, I’ve always gone original spec as it’s such an important service item and I would personally want peace of mind. But it is down to personal choice and budget I guess. 👍
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by Gibbo2286 »

I just took a break from the spanners this time and went for the fixed price deal from Citroen, popped it into the main dealer wandered off round the shops for four hours and picked it up all done with genuine parts, car washed and vacuumed out. £345.
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

Quick update:
I have started to work on the cambelt but was unable to undo the 22mm crank pulley nut.

First I tried with impact wrench - no joy-
Lock the flywheel and tried with extension bar (2 people) we were certain if we tried any harder, something will give way. We were trying anti-clockwise btw.

I have read here before that it was not bad as a nut to get It loose. I am guessing that someone had put too much lock tight (the blue glue) on the nut.

Any ideas on how to get over this hurdle?
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by Bick »

Try a bit of heat on the bolt bead this will melt the locktight then you should be able to get it undone with a impact gun
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by lexi »

I had an extension bar on mine with the 5ft alloy scaffy pole over the top. It was brutal and it also was very stiff ALL the way out. The locking compound should be on the new bolt. I locked camshaft, put hardened pin through flywheel, and also made a toothed lock to go in the fly wheel ring gear.
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

I like the idea of using heat but I only have a heat gun that can go up to 600 degrees, I don’t have a blow torch or anything that burns. Would heat gun be ok to use?
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by Bick »

French_Cars wrote: 12 Oct 2018, 21:50 I like the idea of using heat but I only have a heat gun that can go up to 600 degrees, I don’t have a blow torch or anything that burns. Would heat gun be ok to use?


It will take a while but it should help
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

I know the cam belt should last about 120k or 10years on this engine, this is the reason why initially i tried to change it. The car has covered 121k now and I think this is the 2nd belt which must have been fitted by someone else as the original 22mm nut would not have been tightened so much from the manufacturer. The belt itself looked in descent condition had “Gates” on it.

Does anyone agree that the CS pulley shouldn’t be that tight from PSA?
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by moizeau »

Can you not use the starter motor method? Just asking, not knowing with the HDI
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

I thought about it, but as this is a Citroen with hydraulic suspension, I don’t like to put the ignition on whilst one wheel is up in the air.
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by myglaren »

French_Cars wrote: 12 Oct 2018, 21:15 Quick update:
I have started to work on the cambelt but was unable to undo the 22mm crank pulley nut.

First I tried with impact wrench - no joy-
Lock the flywheel and tried with extension bar (2 people) we were certain if we tried any harder, something will give way. We were trying anti-clockwise btw.

I have read here before that it was not bad as a nut to get It loose. I am guessing that someone had put too much lock tight (the blue glue) on the nut.

Any ideas on how to get over this hurdle?

Please excuse what may be a stupid question but it isn't a left hand thread, is it?
Over twenty years since I was that close to the oily bits but I have a vague recollection that they may be.
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by French_Cars »

It should be undone anti-clockwise (left=loose)
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by Gibbo2286 »

Lexi's answer above is the straightforward way, lock the flywheel and use a long bar, they're always tight but they do come undone without resorting to heat.

Having suitable tools is the main requirement, most DIY tools aren't man enough for the job, I have a 3/4" square drive socket and bar and with the addition of a suitable length of tube it will shift most things.


You need something like this to lock the flywheel.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-VSE23 ... rk:4:pf:0
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Re: Cambelt change on an automatic c5 tourer 2010 2.0 HDI

Post by AJM C5 »

Hi there,

I've been studying this cambelt thread for weeks with the view to doing the belt change among other service items missing from the vehicles history file. Being ex-Land Rover, I know how incredibly useful forums can be, as is this thread but I now appear to have a problemo, so here goes...

Its a C5 (X7) 2.0 HDi 2009 Tourer, manual GB, and quite a nice car it is too. 220,000km but you'd never know it. All worked well, only had to show it the key and it was like a dog off the leash. Issues with self levelling, but I could work around it and that was fourth on the list of jobs to do.

I followed Marc's detailed description and instructions on what to do, and and other input, and also viewed the helpful video someone put up (thank you), excepting disconnecting the low fuel pipes and removing the suspension brackets and arm. And also the manual fuel pump, but the pipes were not disconnected anyway, so.

The crucial things of locking the cam sprocket and crankshaft were done 100% perfectly, which I did when the tools arrived on Tuesday last. There is no mistake on that.

After replacing the tensioner, pulley, waterpump, and cambelt, then the aux belt, oil & filter, I slowly reassembled everything.

Performed the manual engine turnover and all is fine, as expected no horrendous crunches.

The moment came to start the engine; I took the advice and prayed.... The engine turned and sounded nice, only there was a new error message about the handbrake... A 'failure'?! Oh and by the way, the engine would not start. The HB is now a fault, even though on both settings I can hear something happen when disengaging and the display says so, my question is, although I chocked the rear wheels for safety, does the system stop ignition if there is such a fault?

Otherwise what could the problem possibly be. The only electrical loom I disconnected was the engine speed sensor which I reconnected, don't think any coolant touched that after water pump removal.

So there I am, beautiful car I'm doing the work for (local Citroen garage appear not to accept anything but there own parts at twice the price, plus twice the labour charges of the UK) ) but it won't start, how ungrateful. Plenty of top grade fuel in the tank too!

Any thoughtful suggestions would be appreciated.

Kind Rgds
AJ
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