knocking BX
Moderator: RichardW
knocking BX
My BX makes a rather nasty knocking noise when right. I thought initially this was a bottom ball joint, but having played around with the suspension and steering whilst doing the cambelt yesterday I've isolated to the fault to the front drivers side suspension sphere.
It would appear that the sphere is catching on the metal just behind where the engine mount sits. It is obvious that the sphere(or strut) is slightly angled too far in towards the engine.
How do I fix this(on the cheap)?[:)]
It would appear that the sphere is catching on the metal just behind where the engine mount sits. It is obvious that the sphere(or strut) is slightly angled too far in towards the engine.
How do I fix this(on the cheap)?[:)]
You definately got a point there - but I've always used this method on my BX'es. The sphere mount on top of the strut does in fact move relatively easy - despite the top nut torqued correctly.
It's not the rubber base that moves - but the sphere base.
But of course the rubber base takes the punding.
I'd first try some firm thumbing with the palm of the hand - most likely you'll be surprised [;)]
It's not the rubber base that moves - but the sphere base.
But of course the rubber base takes the punding.
I'd first try some firm thumbing with the palm of the hand - most likely you'll be surprised [;)]
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Who last changed this sphere? If the sphere's been overtorqued (easily done, because it just needs to be hand-tight) then that could've done the damage. If that's the case, then use of a band-wrench sphere-removing tool (I wouldn't recommend anything else) might provide the appropriate reversal force.
If you try this with system pressure released through the 12mm bolt on the PR, then you've got more likelihood of succeeding, as the sphere will be more reluctant to unscrew.
After a couple of "interesting" experiences with "blown" front spheres that were a real pain to remove because of the excess nitrogen in the LHM, I often brace the strut with wood blocks against the drivers-side wing where possible when removing. Again, this may be appropriate here to stop over-movement of the mount.
Opinions, anyone?
If you try this with system pressure released through the 12mm bolt on the PR, then you've got more likelihood of succeeding, as the sphere will be more reluctant to unscrew.
After a couple of "interesting" experiences with "blown" front spheres that were a real pain to remove because of the excess nitrogen in the LHM, I often brace the strut with wood blocks against the drivers-side wing where possible when removing. Again, this may be appropriate here to stop over-movement of the mount.
Opinions, anyone?
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As I understand the question: The sphere is contacting the bodywork.
If that is so, then the large iron lump that the sphere screws into needs moving a little. Just slacken the top bolt slightly, as mentioned before. Put the suspension into its lowest position and that should be enough. You will get a little seepage but it is not strictly necessary to release the accumulator pressure. (It is a cleaner job if you can, but if you just want the local wrench to do the job then he won't have to get too involved with a Citroen, saving you the charges for garlic and silver bullets etc.) With the bolt slackened, the sphere and its mount can now be moved either clockwise or anticlockwise to clear the contact point before retightening
the bolt. Before going down this route, just check that the metal pipes around the mount are not touching the adjoining metalwork. THese pipes do not need to be slackened if you are just repositioning the sphere mount a little. Before you start, it has occurred to me that forcing a piece of cardboard into the place where you reckon the contact is being made and then going for a spin will confirm your diagnosis; the noise will sound different if you are right.
If that is so, then the large iron lump that the sphere screws into needs moving a little. Just slacken the top bolt slightly, as mentioned before. Put the suspension into its lowest position and that should be enough. You will get a little seepage but it is not strictly necessary to release the accumulator pressure. (It is a cleaner job if you can, but if you just want the local wrench to do the job then he won't have to get too involved with a Citroen, saving you the charges for garlic and silver bullets etc.) With the bolt slackened, the sphere and its mount can now be moved either clockwise or anticlockwise to clear the contact point before retightening
the bolt. Before going down this route, just check that the metal pipes around the mount are not touching the adjoining metalwork. THese pipes do not need to be slackened if you are just repositioning the sphere mount a little. Before you start, it has occurred to me that forcing a piece of cardboard into the place where you reckon the contact is being made and then going for a spin will confirm your diagnosis; the noise will sound different if you are right.
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- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
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