Citroen C5 - Heavy steering

[Cupi34]

Hi, I have 2006 C5 2.0i. After I changed the front spheres the steering became much heavier. Particularly trough corners. It has now been several weeks since I changed the front spheres.

So there cant possibly be any air in the system causing it? I have regurarly put the car on high setting and low and removed the LDS cap many times. I did fit IFHS comfort spheres. It doesn't really make the car roll any more through the corners than it did. Well maybe a tiny bit.

In february the steering became heavier after the MOT check. Presumably from the car being lifted up, that caused air in the system maybe. I tried to turn the steering from lock to lock, put it in high and low position. The next time I was driving the car it was fine.

But now it has become heavy again. Is there a way to disable the variable power assist, so that it always gives maximum assistance..?

I'm not sure it is working as it should.

By the way.. I drove a 2003 C5 2.0i it was actually much easier to turn the wheel when stationary from lock to lock than this 2006 model. This car has never been that light when stationary.

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok have a look at my post here - this is for the X7 but similar and to be honest, a couple of locks are probably not going to do it. It is important to turn the steering wheel lock to lock SLOWLY.

Here's the instructions under the photo's after I recently bled mine after changing the steering rack:

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 65#p577791

[Cupi34]

So you think that air can still be in the system even after nearly a month of driving?

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes if there was air in the system anyway - could be anywhere from the steering rack to the spheres - so I always take some time to properly bleed the system and get as much out as possible. Seeing as you have just had spheres replaced it is the most likely suspect, so may take some time to work the air out.

Try it - it costs nothing except a little time. Just make sure the level is between the lower neck marks whilst on low suspension.

[white exec]

On XM (C5 different, I know) complete beeding is only obtained by also bleeding at the brake calipers, and in this order: RR, RL, FR, FL, and with the car on max height, and brake pedal continuously lightly pressed. This is because the rear brakes are hydraulically fed from the rear suspension.

Probably of no relevance whatsoever for C5.

[myglaren]

Braking system is conventional on a C5 Chris - only steering and suspension linked and then only by a shared LDS reservoir.

[white exec]

OK.

[Cupi34]

Ok, Chris and Marc I have set the car to high then to low, turned the steering lock to lock many times slowly as well. The LDS is clear of bubbles. This made no difference at all, the steering is still the same. Maybe it has something to do with the variable assistance. That it is not giving as much assistance as it should. Is there any way to find this out?

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so just to clarify a few things to avoid confusion for everybody. On your C5 MK II you have the EW10 petrol engine which, in common with the DW10BTED diesel has an 'electropump' power steering pump.

This is not the 'Reducing Flow Power Steering Pump' fitted to the EW7J4, DV6TED4 and DW12TED4 or the 'Constant flow power steering pump' fitted to the ES9A engines, all of these of which are driven by the accessories belt.

• For the EW7J4, DV6TED4 and DW12TED4 engines, the power-assistance varies as a function of engine speed (the flow decreases as the engine speed increases).
• For the ES9A, a proportional electrovalve, incorporated in the valve, modulates the steering assistance as a function of the vehicle speed.
• For your EW10 and the DW10BTED engines, the flow provided by the power steering electro-pump varies as a function of the vehicle speed and how quickly the steering wheel is turned.

So going back to your question - the variable assistance is only provided as I have described above - there is not other system to provide this.

So in your case, if the steering is 'lumpy' are you 100% sure the LDS level is correct? On the lowest setting, you should just about be able to see the fluid at the bottom of the neck. If not, slowly top this up with the engine off until you see it between the 'a' & 'b' below.

If the fluid is topped up and you have properly bled the system, then I would start looking at the electrical connection to the Power Steering pump and ensuring that the contacts and wires are clean and not corroded - a poor earth or loose pin / loose connector may be making intermittent connections causing the problem.

It is possible that air has got into the system whilst having your spheres changed and is still working its way around. I would keep at it, raising the car up, waiting, the lowering then do 5 slow turns lock to lock, then let the 'fizz' dissipate when the tank de-gasses. The put the car back to normal height and test drive. Take note of how the car feels and whether it is improving or not.

[Gibbo2286]

On mine when I first got it (from the field) after I got it running I backed it out and then back in just to test the auto box was driving, the electro steering pump failed and it was completely impossible to turn the steering wheel whilst stationary.

I drove it forward onto my parking place and it came good and has been so ever since, no idea what caused it but I suspected a broken connection on the pump wiring somewhere.

Still leaves a bit of a nagging doubt in my head. but it's done a few thousand miles now without fault.

[degut94980]

Hello guys. I have as well problem with power steering. My steering wheel is very hard. No any faults on dash. Lexia also don't find any faults. Just I can see it have just about 5.8v power.
No any leaks,lds is normal,fuse is good.Can help please. As per search I can see it is electric problem

[GiveMeABreak]

That voltage is too low. It should be 12V. If it is underpowered, then it is not going top be able to function correctly.

I would start looking at your battery - how old is it? If it's over 5 years old, probably time for a replacement as it won't be able to hold as much of a charge as it did when new, so as it ages it can store less charge. With all the electrical systems taking a toll on the battery you simply may not have enough power in it.

Check that the battery is charging from the alternator - it should be reading anywhere from 14.3 to 14.7 with the engine running. If so, then you know it's charging ok, so back to the battery.

Also, check the electrical connection to the power steering pump. There are only 2 pins in the plug, live and earth Pin 1 = 12V and Pin 2 = Earth.

[degut94980]

Hello. Big thank you administrator for advice.
On my experience I almoste made big mistake.I already thinked change my steering rack,but ot not leaking and then I just put better battery on and now steering pump get about 13v. And drive different then before. Thank you