I filled the new BX with hydraflush yesterday and intend to run it for a couple of thousand miles. Should I clean the filters at any point during this period?
I also intend to change all filters, engine oil, coolant and gearbox oil(where are the fill and drain plugs on the gearbox(TZD Turbo)) as well.
Is there anything else I should consider doing to prolong the life of my trusty BX?[:D]
BX service jobs
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oilyspanner
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tomsheppard
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At 150,000 miles, you should consider replacing the cambelt tensioner, roller, and waterpump. They may go on for ever but have been known to self destruct, causing the engine to turn inside out. Squirting lots of waxoil up the driver's door pillar is a good idea as is having a set of spare hinge pins. Most of it is durable but lay in spare lamp units from the scrappy and a pair of front struts for rebuilding at your leisure. If you can get hold of some silicone grease, it is a Good Idea to clean up all the electrical connections and smear them to keep out the water. Lube the heater motor, too. You'll find details on the excellent BX do it yourself site www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen. Get a GSF catalogue as well. They sponsored the creation of this site and will save you a fortune in the long term.
Thanks again chaps, some good points which I hadn't considered.
I'm doing the cambelt and tensioner on Sunday. The car has covered 124000 miles so I'll do the water pump at the same time.
I couldn't bleed the drivers side rear caliper due to it being well and truly corroded. I'm going to be attacking this on sunday with some heat and mole grips... Can new bleed screws for the rear calipers be purchased? I've looked at GSF and they list the front caliper bleed screws but not the rears. Do citroen sell them?[:)]
Is there any advantage in using hydraflush for longer than 1000 miles? The ride seems slightly firmer on hydraflush, but then this could be that I ensured it was bled properly(possible air in the system previously). The hydraflush seems to be doing something though, because before I filled up, the height corrector seemed to take forever to raise or lower the rear end. It seems to be much more efficient now[:D].
I followed various instructions on priming the pump, but tried a different method. This basically involved me filling the reservoir with hydraflush, turning the engine on, making a cup of tea, drinking the said cup of tea(with a couple of choccy digestives), going back to the car, closing the bleed screw and hey presto pressure back in the system.
Maybe I got lucky, but this way seemed much easier than priming the pump. Is this OK if it works for me? (I love tea and biscuits!)[8D]
I'm doing the cambelt and tensioner on Sunday. The car has covered 124000 miles so I'll do the water pump at the same time.
I couldn't bleed the drivers side rear caliper due to it being well and truly corroded. I'm going to be attacking this on sunday with some heat and mole grips... Can new bleed screws for the rear calipers be purchased? I've looked at GSF and they list the front caliper bleed screws but not the rears. Do citroen sell them?[:)]
Is there any advantage in using hydraflush for longer than 1000 miles? The ride seems slightly firmer on hydraflush, but then this could be that I ensured it was bled properly(possible air in the system previously). The hydraflush seems to be doing something though, because before I filled up, the height corrector seemed to take forever to raise or lower the rear end. It seems to be much more efficient now[:D].
I followed various instructions on priming the pump, but tried a different method. This basically involved me filling the reservoir with hydraflush, turning the engine on, making a cup of tea, drinking the said cup of tea(with a couple of choccy digestives), going back to the car, closing the bleed screw and hey presto pressure back in the system.
Maybe I got lucky, but this way seemed much easier than priming the pump. Is this OK if it works for me? (I love tea and biscuits!)[8D]
The bleed nipples are available as spares - 8mm thread.
It takes long time heating - to red - so patience is really needed.
Using molegrip is most sure way to snap the nipple - let the heat do the work - then unscrew the nipple once you're sure it loosens.
New/removed nipplesd should be greased on re-assembly - ALU-paste (anti-seize) preferred - and nipple head protective cap'ed.
Can't remember what's prescribed on the Hydraflush bottle - won't do any harm extending the flush period.
What worries me is your bleed nipple problem and now running on hydraflush - which tells me you have not shifted the old LHM with hydraflush in the brake calipers (bled the brakes).
Don't get exited on the hydraflush action - it may cause functions go both ways. Really important thing is to patiently let the fluid do it's job.
Back on fresh LHM after fluid replacing again - you'll be left with the real problems after a couple of 100miles.
Does not matter HOW you got pressure back on pump/priming. There is no "correct" way of doing - just some procedures known to give luck first time - mostly [:)]
LHM fluid service describes in details - assuring you don't overlook things [;)]
It takes long time heating - to red - so patience is really needed.
Using molegrip is most sure way to snap the nipple - let the heat do the work - then unscrew the nipple once you're sure it loosens.
New/removed nipplesd should be greased on re-assembly - ALU-paste (anti-seize) preferred - and nipple head protective cap'ed.
Can't remember what's prescribed on the Hydraflush bottle - won't do any harm extending the flush period.
What worries me is your bleed nipple problem and now running on hydraflush - which tells me you have not shifted the old LHM with hydraflush in the brake calipers (bled the brakes).
Don't get exited on the hydraflush action - it may cause functions go both ways. Really important thing is to patiently let the fluid do it's job.
Back on fresh LHM after fluid replacing again - you'll be left with the real problems after a couple of 100miles.
Does not matter HOW you got pressure back on pump/priming. There is no "correct" way of doing - just some procedures known to give luck first time - mostly [:)]
LHM fluid service describes in details - assuring you don't overlook things [;)]
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tomsheppard
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As I opined earlier, I dion't think you will win. Heating the nipple to redness may work BUT let it cool down before you try to shift it or it WILL snap off. The problem here is that it often weakens the alloy of the caliper, thereby ruining the thread. Drilling and tapping is one way of reclaiming the caliper but it is a lot of hassle. Replace them using a decent smear of Copaslip or similar. (It ain't about the grease, it is about the electropotential gradients of dissimilar metallic junctions, so you need the copper more than the grease) Hydraflush shouldn't be left in for more than 2,000 miles. By then, it should have freed up all the gunge
but it does not have the lubricating properties of proper Vulcans' blood
so if it is left in too long it can do more harm than good.
but it does not have the lubricating properties of proper Vulcans' blood
so if it is left in too long it can do more harm than good.
I have had problems with seized rear brake nipples. What worked for me very well was to give a sharp blow to the nipple vertically downwards then try and loosen and tighted. However you must use a decent hex socket to ensure no slippage on the bleed nipple. This always worked for me except once when it snapped, but then a s/h caliper is only a couple of quid.
Dave
Dave
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adrianeaton
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tomsheppard</i>
If you can get hold of some silicone grease, it is a Good Idea to clean up all the electrical connections and smear them to keep out the water.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Tom
This intrigued me as I've been trying to find out how best to protect the electrical connections once you've gone to the trouble of cleaning them up. Is it OK to smear the silicone grease onto the metal contacts themselves or will this result in potential shorts across the terminals? Or is the intention to cover the outside of the connectors to stop water getting in there?
Last question - should you use the spray variety or the thick stuff from a tub?
Cheers
Adrian
If you can get hold of some silicone grease, it is a Good Idea to clean up all the electrical connections and smear them to keep out the water.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Tom
This intrigued me as I've been trying to find out how best to protect the electrical connections once you've gone to the trouble of cleaning them up. Is it OK to smear the silicone grease onto the metal contacts themselves or will this result in potential shorts across the terminals? Or is the intention to cover the outside of the connectors to stop water getting in there?
Last question - should you use the spray variety or the thick stuff from a tub?
Cheers
Adrian
If you want it to last a long time, change the engine oil every 3000 miles, no excuses.Also use it regularly and hard, and fix anything that goes wrong straight away; these cars can deteriorate very rapidly if not used, and can quickly turn into tatty looking money pits if basic checking and servicing is'nt done regularly. I cane mine up and down the M11 every day, right up on the governor up the hills (no turbo), and after 203000 miles it is still giving good service.
Regarding the bleed nipples, I tried to order some of these from GSF recently, and was told they no longer stock them. Maybe I will carve some from cheese; they will be better than the citroen ones!
Regarding the bleed nipples, I tried to order some of these from GSF recently, and was told they no longer stock them. Maybe I will carve some from cheese; they will be better than the citroen ones!
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tomsheppard
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Thick stuff from a tube Molykote if you can get some from somebody working offshore. Provided that the contacts mate cleanly and firmly, then plenty over the contacts themselves will exclude moisture and atmospheric corrosion. I am talking of silicone grease, not a silicone spray. Don't touch any of the car's glass with it on your fingers. It is intended to stay put!
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adrianeaton
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Thanks Tom
That's what I thought - have a small tub of silicone grease from a bloke who used to live near us and worked as a commercial diver on the rigs - he used it to lubricate some of his diving gear so should be up to the job!
Just hope I've got enough to do all the plugs on the car lol! I got some off him to lubricate the new seals on the fuel injectors which I'm about to do so will use some on the connectors I can get to easily.
Many thanks
Adrian
That's what I thought - have a small tub of silicone grease from a bloke who used to live near us and worked as a commercial diver on the rigs - he used it to lubricate some of his diving gear so should be up to the job!
Just hope I've got enough to do all the plugs on the car lol! I got some off him to lubricate the new seals on the fuel injectors which I'm about to do so will use some on the connectors I can get to easily.
Many thanks
Adrian