the Haynes manual describes, from what i can make out, some sort of adjustement to be made on the camshaft sprockets to re-tension the timing belt.
perhaps i've misunderstood, but mine doesn't seem to have any such adjustment, merely the expected roller eccentrically mounted on the engine block to enable adjustment of belt tension.
can anyone shed some light on this query please?
i've read other comments on setting of the belt tension, & i am confident to proceed without the special (electronic?) tool specified in the Haynes manual. This is the first time i have attempted a timing belt on a 16v engine, but never had any trouble carrying out the exercise on the 8v BX engine.
By the way, the 16v engine is in a 406, but i hope you'll excuse me having posted to citroen section!
thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
timing (cam) belt on 1.8 16 valve petrol engine
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colin.dibley
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At times it can be hard to figure out what people means by their descriptions.
- I know - I'm still trying to get better [:I][;)]
I think what Haynes means is to be sure the cambelt is under tension on the longest run - before locking the tensioner wheel. Thus you have to try turn the cam backwards - taking up any tiny slack in the belt - between the 2 camcogs on a 16V.
This is because lockpins on the axles does not hold the axles absolutely tight - but allows just a bit of movement felt when locked - much less than one tooth on the belt.
Even on newer cars - the old rule of thumb still applies :
The cambelt is tensioned just about perfect - when it's exactly possible by normal finger forces to bend the belt 90' on the long run.
Newer engines does not have any new fancy type/design cambelt or cogs.
It's the fitting and tensioning procedures that has been narrowed in by manuals & descriptions - to try avoid later belt failures by bad workmanship.
That's also why the "correct" method now calls out for an "electronic device" which can measure the belt tension accurately.
BTW : if you have not yet removed the old belt - here is an alternative method :
Replacing cambelt
- I know - I'm still trying to get better [:I][;)]
I think what Haynes means is to be sure the cambelt is under tension on the longest run - before locking the tensioner wheel. Thus you have to try turn the cam backwards - taking up any tiny slack in the belt - between the 2 camcogs on a 16V.
This is because lockpins on the axles does not hold the axles absolutely tight - but allows just a bit of movement felt when locked - much less than one tooth on the belt.
Even on newer cars - the old rule of thumb still applies :
The cambelt is tensioned just about perfect - when it's exactly possible by normal finger forces to bend the belt 90' on the long run.
Newer engines does not have any new fancy type/design cambelt or cogs.
It's the fitting and tensioning procedures that has been narrowed in by manuals & descriptions - to try avoid later belt failures by bad workmanship.
That's also why the "correct" method now calls out for an "electronic device" which can measure the belt tension accurately.
BTW : if you have not yet removed the old belt - here is an alternative method :
Replacing cambelt
do the camshaft pulleys each have 3 10mm bolts on them that hold the pulley to the camshaft ?
if so i think it means to loosen them off when tensioning the belt (with the camshafts still locked of course) to allow them to move as the belt tightens,remember to tighten them once tensioned then re-check the valve timing.
if so i think it means to loosen them off when tensioning the belt (with the camshafts still locked of course) to allow them to move as the belt tightens,remember to tighten them once tensioned then re-check the valve timing.