C5 about to go in the canal.
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Yes that's the ticket John - PM your VIN for a diagram.
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Potentially based on the codes, egr valve is stuck open and/or cat collapsing internally.
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
I would actually look at the vacuum system ; EGR, swirl flaps and wastegate errors?
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Are they vacuum, or electrically operated?
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Then yes, great call...
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Is there any easy way to check for collapsed catalyser? and to check the EGR stuck open? Are the swirl flaps operated by
the rod with the ball joint end? If so that rod moves towards the bulkhead when the engine starts. Thanks everyone!
the rod with the ball joint end? If so that rod moves towards the bulkhead when the engine starts. Thanks everyone!
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
To check for collapsed cat/ blocked exhaust I'd just disconnect the exhaust before the cat and see if any improvement . Egr I think just remove & clean/replace if any suspicion and swirl flaps I don't honestly know but I think that's the one.
Harlequin raised a good point though, and I have heard of tiny splits in vac lines causing all manner of bad behaviour. I think it was RichardW who had big problems due to a split vac line. Well worth getting a vacuum pump and testing all the lines I think based on this.
Harlequin raised a good point though, and I have heard of tiny splits in vac lines causing all manner of bad behaviour. I think it was RichardW who had big problems due to a split vac line. Well worth getting a vacuum pump and testing all the lines I think based on this.
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
John
Here are the checks you can make concerning the EGR & throttle butterfly housing - you'll need a pressure testing tool though...
EGR Solenoid Valve
Check to be carried out off-load between the electrovalve ( 3) (blue connector) and the EGR valve (2) (tube marked in blue).
Connect the tool [1] as an adaptor between the electrovalve (3) and the EGR valve (2).
Compare the values read with those of the table below.
Butterfly Housing Electrovalve
Check to be carried out off-load between the electrovalve ( 4) (black connector) and the butterfly housing (1) (doseur cold) (pipe with white mark).
Connect the tool [ 1] as an adaptor between the electrovalve (4) and the butterfly housing (1).
Compare the values read with those of the table below.
EGR Valve
Connect the tool [1] on the take-off (a) of the EGR valve capsule (2).
Apply a vacuum of approximately 0,6 bar to operate the valve.
When the vacuum is suddenly cut off, the valve should click as it returns to its seat.
Repeat the operation several times
Remove the air duct between the air/air exchanger and the butterfly housing ( 1).
Disconnect the pipe (white mark) at the electrovalve ( 4) (black connector).
Connect the tool [ 1] to the pipe with white mark.
Apply a vacuum of approx. 0,8 bar, the flap (b) of the butterfly housing (1) should be closed.
Here are the checks you can make concerning the EGR & throttle butterfly housing - you'll need a pressure testing tool though...
EGR Solenoid Valve
Check to be carried out off-load between the electrovalve ( 3) (blue connector) and the EGR valve (2) (tube marked in blue).
Connect the tool [1] as an adaptor between the electrovalve (3) and the EGR valve (2).
Compare the values read with those of the table below.
Engine speed | Vacuum value |
780 rpm | 0,5 bar |
2500 rpm | 0 bar |
Butterfly Housing Electrovalve
Check to be carried out off-load between the electrovalve ( 4) (black connector) and the butterfly housing (1) (doseur cold) (pipe with white mark).
Connect the tool [ 1] as an adaptor between the electrovalve (4) and the butterfly housing (1).
Compare the values read with those of the table below.
Engine speed | Vacuum value |
780 rpm | 0,5 bar |
2500 rpm | 0 bar |
Apply a vacuum of approximately 0,6 bar to operate the valve.
When the vacuum is suddenly cut off, the valve should click as it returns to its seat.
Repeat the operation several times
Remove the air duct between the air/air exchanger and the butterfly housing ( 1).
Disconnect the pipe (white mark) at the electrovalve ( 4) (black connector).
Connect the tool [ 1] to the pipe with white mark.
Apply a vacuum of approx. 0,8 bar, the flap (b) of the butterfly housing (1) should be closed.
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Marc
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Not related exactly but those instructions Marc posted prove that the Butterfly / Doseur is operational during engine running in order to increase the EGR effectiveness. I remember there was some debate on another thread about the purpose of the Doseur.
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
^^ my 2.2 is throwing up a turbo overboost issue, my own swirl flaps arnt moving at all, so mine will be in a garage this week to have the vac circuit checked.
yes , on the right side of the engine a rod with a ball joint is supposed to move a leaver at 2000 rpm.
yes , on the right side of the engine a rod with a ball joint is supposed to move a leaver at 2000 rpm.
Simon
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
Marc - in your first diagram, the electro valve is part number 1628LQ, how ever, what is part number 4 used for if 3 is the electro valve? I though 3 was for the wastegate?
Simon
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Re: C5 about to go in the canal.
This is the Bosch setup for the DW12TED4 Engine that might help with the EGR Function and parts identification Simon:
Click to Zoom Diagram
Click to Zoom Diagram
Reference | Designation | Remarks |
1 | Throttle housing control electrovalve (EGR) | |
2 | "Swirl" control electrovalve | |
3 | "Swirl" control diaphragm | Vacuum-controlled |
4 | Recycling regulation electrovalve (EGR) | |
5 | vacuum pump | |
6 | Vacuum reservoir | |
7 | Exhaust gas recycling valve (EGR) | Vacuum-controlled |
8 | Turbocharging pressure regulation solenoid valve | |
9 | Exhaust gas manifold | |
10 | Inlet air heater throttle control electrovalve | |
11 | Finned diffuser piston control pneumatic capsule | Vacuum-controlled |
12 | Finned diffuser piston | |
13 | Particle filter + catalytic converter | |
14 | Exhaust turbine | |
15 | Variable geometry turbocharger | |
16 | Air inlet turbine | |
17 | Air flow meter + Air temperature sensor | |
18 | Air cleaner | |
19 | air/air heat exchanger | |
20 | Water-to-air heat exchanger + (inlet air heating) | |
21 | Inlet manifold pressure sensor | |
22 | Inlet air heater throttle | Vacuum-controlled |
23 | "Swirl" control throttle | |
24 | Air inlet manifold | |
25 | Exhaust gas/water exchanger | |
26 | Throttle butterfly housing (EGR) | Vacuum-controlled |
27 | injection ECU | |
28 | atmospheric pressure sensor (integrated in the injection ECU) |
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Marc
Marc
Re: C5 about to go in the canal. Progress!
PROGRESS! Thanks to comments and contributions from you good people. Here is the latest;
The ABS problem was the very rare faulty wheel bearing which has a magnetic ring/reluctor built in to the hub bearing. I purchased
a used complete hub and is now fine.
The P0235 fault was caused by the loom wire plug to the MPF ( detects vacuum by measuring air intake to turbo and advising all other induction
and exhaust sensors).
One sodding tiny volt feed 5v wire had sheared where it enters the plug so no information was being fed so when accelerating it reduced turbo pressure to match
the demand as it was not being fed enough air. I only saw this broken wire due to one of you guys saying to check the MPF. Thank you!
After 3 months, a great many hours and several hundred pounds I am on the final furlong. I will keep you posted if it stays stable and gets
put back on the road.
I would comment that having bought the Lexia system, (want to borrow it?) it is very limited in what it does and can drive you nuts! For the broken wire to the MPF it advised me
the fault was turbo sensors and a lot of other indicators, which is what they are, nothing more than indicators!.........it will diagnose the area/circuit/system where the fault
is but do not rely on getting very focused pinpoint diagnosis. At no point did it ever say there was a problem with the MPF not sodding working!
Great forum and such a help. Thank you all. Cheers, John.
The ABS problem was the very rare faulty wheel bearing which has a magnetic ring/reluctor built in to the hub bearing. I purchased
a used complete hub and is now fine.
The P0235 fault was caused by the loom wire plug to the MPF ( detects vacuum by measuring air intake to turbo and advising all other induction
and exhaust sensors).
One sodding tiny volt feed 5v wire had sheared where it enters the plug so no information was being fed so when accelerating it reduced turbo pressure to match
the demand as it was not being fed enough air. I only saw this broken wire due to one of you guys saying to check the MPF. Thank you!
After 3 months, a great many hours and several hundred pounds I am on the final furlong. I will keep you posted if it stays stable and gets
put back on the road.
I would comment that having bought the Lexia system, (want to borrow it?) it is very limited in what it does and can drive you nuts! For the broken wire to the MPF it advised me
the fault was turbo sensors and a lot of other indicators, which is what they are, nothing more than indicators!.........it will diagnose the area/circuit/system where the fault
is but do not rely on getting very focused pinpoint diagnosis. At no point did it ever say there was a problem with the MPF not sodding working!
Great forum and such a help. Thank you all. Cheers, John.