Still Not Happy !!!
Moderator: RichardW
Still Not Happy !!!
As listed in other post I have changed all spheres etc etc........
Xantia 1.9 td
Still not convinced that the back of my 96-97 td is at the correct height, the H/C was changed when I first bought the car so i'm unsure what it was like back then (3-4 months ago)
It just looks to high compared to ANY xantia out there
When at tickover there is 2-3 inch gap between wheelarch and top of tyre, when I sit in the back (and I am a biiiiig guy) the rear drops correctly but takes 20-30 seconds to rise up again.
When dropped to low setting the front rises fine but the rear takes a while to go up,It is like a delay to the H/C as the pump sounds like its working normally, I think this may be the H/c link is incorrectly positioned?
Is it a case of just supporting the car on stands and turning the link to the roll bar a little at a time or is it more involved??
Also the right hand gaiter on steering rack is leaking can I get these from GSF and is it an easy job ?[V]
Xantia 1.9 td
Still not convinced that the back of my 96-97 td is at the correct height, the H/C was changed when I first bought the car so i'm unsure what it was like back then (3-4 months ago)
It just looks to high compared to ANY xantia out there
When at tickover there is 2-3 inch gap between wheelarch and top of tyre, when I sit in the back (and I am a biiiiig guy) the rear drops correctly but takes 20-30 seconds to rise up again.
When dropped to low setting the front rises fine but the rear takes a while to go up,It is like a delay to the H/C as the pump sounds like its working normally, I think this may be the H/c link is incorrectly positioned?
Is it a case of just supporting the car on stands and turning the link to the roll bar a little at a time or is it more involved??
Also the right hand gaiter on steering rack is leaking can I get these from GSF and is it an easy job ?[V]
Have you overhauled the rear HC linkage ?
As pr your description it does not seem to be a system pressure problem - but a HC problem - and then most likely the linkages.
The spheres themselves does not have ANY influence on height - only on suspension softness - and thereby load height regulating. I.e. the car will not sink on load with flat spheres.
Instead of elaborated works to figure out correct height & measuring points etc. - use the good old rule of thumb by setting the normal height halfway bewteen lowest & highest suspension height settings.
As pr your description it does not seem to be a system pressure problem - but a HC problem - and then most likely the linkages.
The spheres themselves does not have ANY influence on height - only on suspension softness - and thereby load height regulating. I.e. the car will not sink on load with flat spheres.
Instead of elaborated works to figure out correct height & measuring points etc. - use the good old rule of thumb by setting the normal height halfway bewteen lowest & highest suspension height settings.
It don't look like that !!!!!!!
It looks jacked up at the back like a hot rod and the floor is definately at an angle, The H/c looks brand new and this is the immpression I got of the mechanic who fitted it.
I have just checked with my trusty stick and the the results were middle to high 2.5 inches difference...
low to middle 4 inches, I just get a feeling that the link to the roll barr is at the wrong positon and its not letting it rest in the right position.[xx(]
Is the link difficult to move once the pichbolt is released I was thinking of marking the original position and the moving a couple of mm at a time,
Thanks for your help guys this has really bugged me from the day I got the car back[:)]
It looks jacked up at the back like a hot rod and the floor is definately at an angle, The H/c looks brand new and this is the immpression I got of the mechanic who fitted it.
I have just checked with my trusty stick and the the results were middle to high 2.5 inches difference...
low to middle 4 inches, I just get a feeling that the link to the roll barr is at the wrong positon and its not letting it rest in the right position.[xx(]
Is the link difficult to move once the pichbolt is released I was thinking of marking the original position and the moving a couple of mm at a time,
Thanks for your help guys this has really bugged me from the day I got the car back[:)]
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I had the same problem with my xantia it looked like a dragster, shame it doesn't go like one.
The pinch clamp on the rear antiroll bar is easy enough to adjust it's just time consuming and trial and error to get the right hight.You'll need a 10mm spanner/shallow socket and a long flat blade screwdriver to lever the clamp with, as your rear is to high you need to move the clamp anti clockwise on the antiroll bar if looking from the drivers side (presuming it's rhd).Small adjustments make a big difference in hight so just move it a bit at a time.If it's any help I measured mine from floor to wheel arch through centre of wheel and got it to around 22 inches,this leaves the arch just above the tyre when looking from the side.I dont think it's that far out as I had it mot'd yesterday and the headlight hight was ok.
Have fun!!
The pinch clamp on the rear antiroll bar is easy enough to adjust it's just time consuming and trial and error to get the right hight.You'll need a 10mm spanner/shallow socket and a long flat blade screwdriver to lever the clamp with, as your rear is to high you need to move the clamp anti clockwise on the antiroll bar if looking from the drivers side (presuming it's rhd).Small adjustments make a big difference in hight so just move it a bit at a time.If it's any help I measured mine from floor to wheel arch through centre of wheel and got it to around 22 inches,this leaves the arch just above the tyre when looking from the side.I dont think it's that far out as I had it mot'd yesterday and the headlight hight was ok.
Have fun!!
Hm, on mine ('98) it's 61.3 cm from the ground to rear wheel arch, and it's 1 cm lower than stated in Haynes (and also 1 cm lower than midpoint between lowest and highest position). But wheel arch is also about levelled with top of the tyre (185/65 R15). Distance between PU bump stop and rear arm is about 15 mm.
At last I have a normal looking Xantia (I knew something was wrong with it !!!!![:D]!)...THANKS EVERYONE
The clamp had been tightened without being adjusted, ie H/C replaced and everything tightened up where it rested[:(]Thanks for telling me which way to turn clamp I would have gone the other way.
And it only took Five attempts!!!!!!!!
The clamp had been tightened without being adjusted, ie H/C replaced and everything tightened up where it rested[:(]Thanks for telling me which way to turn clamp I would have gone the other way.
And it only took Five attempts!!!!!!!!
The antisink sphere is not actually part of the anti-sink function.
It's fitted to provide the rear brakes circuit a pressure feed in case the system pressure is lost during drive (and antisink valve locks the suspension height).
Hmmm...
In fact a totally flat antisink sphere would not disturb the antisink function itself - only affects rear brakes.
But if an antisink sphere in good nick is exposed to a severe leaking brake doseur/compensator (pedal) valve - the common rearsink problem on simple models - then you have the extra antisink sphere which needs to be re-charged once the system pressure opens the safety valve and then the antisink valve.
The first/largest available pressure for the antisink sphere to recharge - is the now open pressure lines to the rear suspension spheres - which then looses a bread part of their pressure and make the rear sink.
I suspect you may have a problem both with pump capacity and brake valve leak.
Any pump capacity problem would be the first/easiest option to check for :
Lift up the filter assembly from reservoir - the filters MUST look like clean plastic wetted by LHM.
Check the (largest dia) reservoir to pump suction hose. It MUST be a snug fit on studs - and the hose MUST not have surface cracking - especially the deep cracking commonly observed at studs.
Next - check the return hose from the brake valve - this would be one of the small hoses at reservoir.
Have engine idle - normal height.
You may check all the SMALL dia hoses - as pr nature these are not designed to carry pressure/hi flow.
Few drops to slow dripping is acceptable - but constant flow - even pressure - is a sure problem indicator - and then likely the brake valve will be the leaker as the Xantia front struts rarely wear out to the scaring leaks seen from BX struts.
It's fitted to provide the rear brakes circuit a pressure feed in case the system pressure is lost during drive (and antisink valve locks the suspension height).
Hmmm...
In fact a totally flat antisink sphere would not disturb the antisink function itself - only affects rear brakes.
But if an antisink sphere in good nick is exposed to a severe leaking brake doseur/compensator (pedal) valve - the common rearsink problem on simple models - then you have the extra antisink sphere which needs to be re-charged once the system pressure opens the safety valve and then the antisink valve.
The first/largest available pressure for the antisink sphere to recharge - is the now open pressure lines to the rear suspension spheres - which then looses a bread part of their pressure and make the rear sink.
I suspect you may have a problem both with pump capacity and brake valve leak.
Any pump capacity problem would be the first/easiest option to check for :
Lift up the filter assembly from reservoir - the filters MUST look like clean plastic wetted by LHM.
Check the (largest dia) reservoir to pump suction hose. It MUST be a snug fit on studs - and the hose MUST not have surface cracking - especially the deep cracking commonly observed at studs.
Next - check the return hose from the brake valve - this would be one of the small hoses at reservoir.
Have engine idle - normal height.
You may check all the SMALL dia hoses - as pr nature these are not designed to carry pressure/hi flow.
Few drops to slow dripping is acceptable - but constant flow - even pressure - is a sure problem indicator - and then likely the brake valve will be the leaker as the Xantia front struts rarely wear out to the scaring leaks seen from BX struts.