Another C5 X7 suspension repair

[Stickyfinger]

not when I drove it ....my bet would be the lower joint, wheels on ground, get a crow bar and lever against the arms to see if there is any movement in the joint.

[elma]

Then remember the noise, one of the reasons I keep buying the same cars. Not only do I like them but I've got to know what noise and feel each component makes when it wants attention.

[Bob L'eponge]

there has always been a clunk under harsh low speed braking.

This is probably play in the rearmost rubber block on the end of the lower suspension arm. (The one where the arm is secured to the cross member that holds the steering rack.) It can be difficult to spot this just by pulling on the wheel as the way the forces are transmitted mean that play will only shown up if you try to push the wheel backwards and forwards, and not when you pull the wheel from side to side.

The bush in question is to be found mounted in the alloy block in the picture below. The alloy block and its rubber bush are available as a separate part, and when I changed mine it looks like this could be done without even taking the arm off the car, although you might need a Dremmel or similar to cut the steel sleeve that runs through the middle of the rubber block off the arm itself.

https://www.oscaro.com/triangle-de-susp ... 2058-273-p

https://www.oscaro.com/silent-bloc-de-s ... 2291-251-p

[jgra1]

thanks all..
will take a look soon.. sorting the clunk should be easy for me.. a rack problem would be a pain if the steering wheel judder is a signal..

[pelopelirrojo]

Just been up to the dealer to pay the diagnostic bill.

They showed me an image (attached) with the two pipes that have chafed.

They are high and low pressure power steering flexi pipes that apparently sit next to each other.

This caused the leak which allowed the pump to run dry.

Anyone every changed/repaired these pipes?

[Gibbo2286]

I can't help with the rubbed out pipes but I would certainly replace them (Or maybe just the one that's holed) then fill up the fluid and test before doing anything about the pump, I'd doubt if the pump has really failed.

As for the other poster's wheel shake, get it to the tyre place and check the balance, I had new front tyres on my C5 about a month ago, my first longer distance trip on Monday showed up a wheel wobble at 70mph, popped it into the fitters and sure enough a weight had been dislodged, got a rebalance free of charge.

[Stickyfinger]

Well I am confused now, how can BOTH those pipes rub, has the rack been replaced on the car ? If it has, then it has/must of been been badly refitted.

Really bad luck.

[GiveMeABreak]

Looking at the diagram, I can only see a point of contact directly at the rear of the rack where they enter the rack itself where the 'marching ants' are. How these rub together though is confusing as you say..

[pelopelirrojo]

It's back on the drive.

I'll get out there over the weekend and get underneath for a good look.

Yes, I think I'll try the pipes first and simply refill to see if the pump will go. I don't see how they concluded it has seized as the 40 amp fuse is intact. If it were seized I would expect that to be blown. Maybe a low fluid level switch has stopped the pump from operating?

Steering rack never changed. I am the second owner from when it was 3 years old. It had full dealer/service history with all the paperwork and had only ever had the routing oil/filter changes etc. No faults. Since I have owned it the rear ride height sensor has failed, the offside front strut leaked and now this fault. Also the usual windscreen side trims coming loose/falling off. Maybe a clip or something came loose allowing the pipes to chafe? I'll find out soon.

[Gibbo2286]

I mentioned in another thread how my old CX had the same problem, pipes across the front cross member had rubbed through, shouldn't have been able to as they were clipped and running parallel to each other but that's sod's law for you.

[bobins]

Are these the two pipes that are known to cause trouble on some racks when the rack is replaced ? Isn't there a problem with them corroding or the seals not seating properly ?

[Stickyfinger]

True, a lot will depend on the accuracy of the diagnosis.....

[GiveMeABreak]

Are these the two pipes that are known to cause trouble on some racks when the rack is replaced ? Isn't there a problem with them corroding or the seals not seating properly ?

No that's the pinion seals as a result of rust from water ingress, that then affects the inner seals.

Just done a little research: It seems that there were a couple of mods made about 2009 (and I'm not talking about the new steering rack design as we know that was faulty on much later models). One was the fixing of the power steering pipe on the subframe and concerned replacing the old bracket clamp style with a simple cable clasp:

Pipe Routing Showing Bracket

Old Design PS Steering Pipe Bracket

New Design PS Steering pipe Clip

I can't see how this would cause or make any difference to the pipe working loose as the other pipe is miles away!

Secondly and this is more interesting - there was a modification to the Power steering electro pump connector. It seems that inside the plug, they have modified it to space the electrical pins apart. The interesting part, is that they show how the power cables are to be taped up afterwards with a specific mention about ensuring they do not make contact with the power steering pipe. Now that would make more sense if this was not done properly and would cause the electrical power cables to rub against the PS pipe!

PS Pump Electrical Harness

This is where is it located in relation to the PS pipe:

Electrical Harness Mod

Close Up:

Close up of Electrical Harness against PS Pipe

So if this was not taped up correctly - there is only a small gap between the electrical taping / cable tie and the rubber PS pipe.....

I just can't see how the pipes the mechanic showed in the original poster's diagram can touch each other as they are are routed around the vehicle differently!

[Stickyfinger]

Open Question:.....would this type of work, if it has not be correctly done, allow a claim back to the dealer who did the work ?

[pelopelirrojo]

Thanks very much for the replies. That's really great info on those mods. I'll check those out.

The dealer told me the pipes run close together and had rubbed against each other. In fairness to them, the guy at the front desk is relaying his interpretation of what the technician has told him, chinese whispers 'n all.

Before this I have always found them to be straight talking and honest. I'll give them the benefit of doubt.