Installing Front & Rear Dash Cameras in C5 X7 Project

[biohead]

Has anyone else tried using a piggyback fuse on the X7?

I've just tried it on my 2011 model using fuse F9 and it seems it's constantly on in my car rather than switched. And as it had a 20A fitted as opposed to the 30A shown i'm wondering if there's been a change at some point?
I only had a quick bash at it so need to do some more digging - but this might be a bit trickier than I thought!

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so Fuse F9 is the one arrowed in Red and is 30 Amp for the Cigarette lighter.

Remember that this is permanent live at the fuse box, but the cigarette lighter itself is switched off by the BSI on economy mode or after a certain amount of time. This was no good for my setup, as the dash cam obviously stayed on for quite some time after I left the car - and if you don't manually switch the dash cam off it will stay on and gradually drain the battery over time.

I used Fuse F4 just along to the right in the picture above. This one is for the "Automatic gearbox - additional heater unit (Diesel) - electrochromatic rear view mirrors" This one is switched positive.

EDIT Jan 2018:
Main Article Updated for Permanent Live and Switched Live options

[biohead]

Thank you - that'll teach me for attempting this after a long few days at work! I was reading the original post over and over, and I'd just seen "F9" and was instantly assuming that was the one you ending up using. This was despite you saying the cig lighter fuse is constant and it being clearly labelled as such - I just couldn't put two and two together by that stage! I think I need to catch up on some sleep first!

[GiveMeABreak]

Sorry if it was a bit confusing, I may edit the post as I did update the post regarding the fuse after a month or so when I realised I had to do something about it when I kept forgetting to switch it off!

As I’ve now also installed a Snooper 4Zero Elite GPS speedtrap and radar detector, I wanted that to come on when the car started and go off with ignition off. As F4 is the only switched supply, I simply spliced into the Dash Cam positive and existing earth and it work perfectly.

[TouringRob]

Do these record sound also?

[GiveMeABreak]

The Rexing V1P (as per my project ) certainly does Rob (?) You can optionally have the LCD screen on or off (to avoid distraction) which I do as it helps me forget it is there - but yes, they do record sound, as I found out when editing out my swearing when a nutter nearly went into me at a roundabout!

[TouringRob]

The Rexing V1P (as per my project ) certainly does Rob (?) You can optionally have the LCD screen on or off (to avoid distraction) which I do as it helps me forget it is there - but yes, they do record sound, as I found out when editing out my swearing when a nutter nearly went into me at a roundabout!

Haha, brilliant re nutter on roundabout and editing swearing.

I've had a few near miss events with idiots recently and have been pondering over which camera to buy as ideally wanted a rear camera too which many of the more expensive versions don't have - I quite like the look of the new Garmin action cam however this seems excessive for the app. My girlfriend has the C4 and I'm sure she is the cause of many near misses so probably worth buying one for each of our cars - I also need to take my car to a dealer soon for a recall, I would be interested to see how they drive the car about after (if they even do) 300bhp and rwd in a customers car is probably asking for a thrashing.

I'm hoping to squeeze the front camera behind the rear view mirror (seems a bit smaller than the C4) so being able to turn the screen off is a nice feature.

Thank you for the review and for uploading some footage.

Rob,

[GiveMeABreak]

No worries - you've reminded me that I need to update the guide regarding the switched fuse - so I'm 'photoshopping' a new fuse box picture and will probably edit to give people the choice of permanent live or switched live as they desire.

Also, as you have the Tourer, whatever model you go for, you may find that there isn't enough cable supplied for the rear camera - so you may need to make splice in the middle somewhere to extend it. Just solder, insulate and cover with some heat shrink wrap. I had just enough with the saloon!

[elcustardo]

I'm assuming the fusebox connections could handle 2 separate dash cams being powered from them?
Im planning on fitting a 2nd Garmin mini in the rear of the C5 and for parking mode it requires an ignition & constant live(already wired the front camera as per this guide ). Unless there's a known easy source for power in the rear?
Ta

[GiveMeABreak]

My camera unit had an input for the rear already - so power was a single connection to the front camera and the rear camera was just wired back to the rear camera input.

At the end of the day the choice will be permanent live (risk of battery flattening if you forget to switch it off like I originally did) or switched live, and then the correct fuse that can supply the power you need for both front and rear for your particular setup.

You just need to make sure you pick the appropriate fuse - one that can supply the required power easily enough, but also ensuring that you fit an appropriate (probably lower rated) fuse for the cameras.

[elcustardo]

My camera unit had an input for the rear already - so power was a single connection to the front camera and the rear camera was just wired back to the rear camera input.

At the end of the day the choice will be permanent live (risk of battery flattening if you forget to switch it off like I originally did) or switched live, and then the correct fuse that can supply the power you need for both front and rear for your particular setup.

You just need to make sure you pick the appropriate fuse - one that can supply the required power easily enough, but also ensuring that you fit an appropriate (probably lower rated) fuse for the cameras.

The Garmins require both feeds for parking mode to be active. I used the same fuses you did for your guide for the front install.
They are 2 separate cameras vs your all in one add on rear camera.
The cable supposedly monitors battery drain and parking modes are selected in the drive phone app.
my road is too busy with passing traffic to use movement so its only set for impact sensing.
Another constant live wont be an issue in the fuse box (for the rear camera) but if you are saying there's only 1 ignition live in the fuse box I wondered if it would support the 2 cameras. Cant find a data sheet but I assume the camera drain is low especially as they have no screens.

[GiveMeABreak]

The issue with my camera was that it stayed on with a permanent live until you switch it off on the camera. Mine has a screen, which can be split between front, rear or both cameras - and can be set to go off after a set period of time. So the issue with me was I thought it was off as the screen was blanked, when it was on and recording! So battery became weak on several occasions, so I decided to pick a switched live, so the camera turns on with ignition and then off automatically after a few seconds when the ignition is off.

I didn't have any need for the impact sensor on mine (it's usually supermarket trolleys or more precisely their pushers who are the culprits).

The issue you will have is that the system is going to be taking some draw around the clock as it needs to have power for the impact sensors to operate. Ultimately this will be worse for older batteries, plus add on the car's normal electrical drain for the RCD triggering (remote unlocking standby, TPMS monitoring) for example. If you have 2 cameras that is going to be more. Now I know that some Garmin systems have a Parking mode cable that must be connected to use this feature - as one of its purposes is to try and limit complete battery discharge, so must be connected up correctly according to their fitting notes.

So it will be trial and error wit some monitoring of the battery over a month to see how it is affected.

[elcustardo]

The issue with my camera was that it stayed on with a permanent live until you switch it off on the camera. Mine has a screen, which can be split between front, rear or both cameras - and can be set to go off after a set period of time. So the issue with me was I thought it was off as the screen was blanked, when it was on and recording! So battery became weak on several occasions, so I decided to pick a switched live, so the camera turns on with ignition and then off automatically after a few seconds when the ignition is off.

I didn't have any need for the impact sensor on mine (it's usually supermarket trolleys or more precisely their pushers who are the culprits).

The issue you will have is that the system is going to be taking some draw around the clock as it needs to have power for the impact sensors to operate. Ultimately this will be worse for older batteries, plus add on the car's normal electrical drain for the RCD triggering (remote unlocking standby, TPMS monitoring) for example. If you have 2 cameras that is going to be more. Now I know that some Garmin systems have a Parking mode cable that must be connected to use this feature - as one of its purposes is to try and limit complete battery discharge, so must be connected up correctly according to their fitting notes.

So it will be trial and error wit some monitoring of the battery over a month to see how it is affected.

Yeah. Im back at work next week so the car will be back to daily use. So ill give it a go.
Sadly I dodnt have the system set up on my Picasso and as it transpires,having video footage of the driver leaving the scene of the 'accident' would have helped police greatly.