DW8 cam belt

[CitroJim]

Yes its just that unit. Not really sure why they did that, not a brilliant decision I think although I guess it reduces costs slightly.

No doubt. All car makers are notorious for an odd bit of penny-pinching... But then, one bulb save in a million cars makes a big difference in costs... And profits...

[van ordinaire]

Thanks for everything guys, even the usual suspects going off at tangents (which I've learned is the style of this forum - & it's no worse for that!)

Have to say though, locking the flywheel's still a bit of a puzzle, the proper tool (no more than a strategically bent length of rod) is impossible to replicate without any dimensions.

The D-i-Y kit is a bolt turned to taper, with a long, semi-flexible handle - presumably to deal with a difficult angle of approach, but others say use an 8mm drill bit - or a 6mm allen key. I'm minded to try a tapered punch/drift, as, from memory, most of mine are about 8mm. diameter

I quite like Jim's idea of dispensing with it altogether, especially as I have a photo which shows an alignment of the Woodruff key, a tooth & a mark on the crankcase - but we'll see what it really looks like. My only reservation is regarding the pulley moving, however slightly, when replacing the belt.

As for that idea of cutting the belt, etc that sound like the sort of thing you'd do in desperation, by the side of some lonely track & bizarrely, you only had tools to remove the covers - or you were making a "look how smart I am" TV prog.

Thanks for the tip, but I was already persuaded to get a complete kit (despite the immediate shock of how much more than a bare belt it was) as I certainly don't want to do this again - & with the van coming up to 170k it's extremely unlikely - If I have to do another belt at 220k I'll be so chuffed I won't mind that bit.

[CitroJim]

Thanks for everything guys, even the usual suspects going off at tangents (which I've learned is the style of this forum - & it's no worse for that!).

By FCF standards this one has stayed pretty well on-topic

If you do go for my 'don't lock the crank' method be sure to put some very accurate alignment marks on the crankcase against the woodruff key... If you don't very carefully mark it's easy to end up half or one tooth out...

[ekjdm14]

with the van coming up to 170k it's extremely unlikely - If I have to do another belt at 220k I'll be so chuffed I won't mind that bit.

I guess you're speaking more of bodywork worries than anything of a mechanical nature, engine/box should walk that given proper oil/filter intervals

[spider]

The flywheel tool I'm 99% sure you can use the XUD one for it.

I have one but I found it would only fit (on XUD's) about 90% of them simply as some models have a 'larger case' starter (possibly a third party item) which means that there's no enough room to fit the tool directly. This is not a massive issue though as you simply need to whip the three starter bolts out and move it an inch to the left (it can rest on the pipework, no need to disconnect the wiring) and the wiring is not strained.

[top drive]

If you have a floating crank pulley don't follow the crank-pump-cam advice on here

Floating crank pulleys need to be fitted from the cam -pump - crank.

Stiick a 2mm drill bit in the key way for crank

Use a length of 3/16 brake line for the flywheel

I did it by tipex the first time round. Was a tooth off. The difference between right and wrong at the fly wheel is like 4mm.

Just be aware of what dw8 you have when you open up.

You get ones like mine with a fixed cam a bolted pump and a. Floating cam

Others have a fixed cam and a bolted cam and pump. These should have belt fitted crank -pump - can.

[spider]

Thanks for everything guys, even the usual suspects going off at tangents (which I've learned is the style of this forum - & it's no worse for that!)

If you have a floating crank pulley don't follow the crank-pump-cam advice on here

Floating crank pulleys need to be fitted from the cam -pump - crank.

Stiick a 2mm drill bit in the key way for crank

Use a length of 3/16 brake line for the flywheel

I did it by tipex the first time round. Was a tooth off. The difference between right and wrong at the fly wheel is like 4mm.

Just be aware of what dw8 you have when you open up.

You get ones like mine with a fixed cam a bolted pump and a. Floating cam

Others have a fixed cam and a bolted cam and pump. These should have belt fitted crank -pump - can.

That's a good point, like the later DW10's (HDI) , typically about 2003-ish onwards give or take they changed. As indicated easier to tell as you'll either have three bolts in the cam sprocket or you won't. I should point out I've not personally seen "in the metal" so to speak a DW8 with this type of setup, I have seen HDI's with either...

[top drive]

I have photos of floating crank . How the feck do I post them on here

[myglaren]

I have photos of floating crank . How the feck do I post them on here

There is a guide here.
I have sent a PM too.

[top drive]

cheers myglaren , working on it.



does that work ? should be able to see the crank keyway is nearly twice the size of the woodruff key . that is normal dont s**t a biscuit.

Put a 2mm drill bit on the left hand side when its locked up and carry on as normal .

[CitroJim]

Is that keyway gap really normal? I ask as it's certainly not the case, to that massive extent anyway, in an XUD...

I take it there's no such enormous gap on the crank pulley keyway...

[top drive]

Aye , I checked it out. Not even all dw8s have it im just lucky like that

CrankWoodruff's tight in slot on crank shaft

And tight in crank pulley

Reckon it's to aid assembly tbh.

But it important to put the 2 mm dril in to centralise the keyway ion the key and time from cam down of you'll likely end up a tooth out.

[CitroJim]

Thanks, good to know and I think you're spot-on about aiding assembly...

But it important to put the 2 mm dril in to centralise the keyway ion the key and time from cam down of you'll likely end up a tooth out.

An excellent tip

[van ordinaire]

That's it guys, thanks, you've told me all a need to know: i.e. I ain't doing it myself! Too much grief, too many uncertainties. I'll devote Christmas to something simpler - like trying to remove the rad (which you can't even see) from the Cadillac!

Don't anybody, ever, tell me again that these things are easy/cheap to work on.

Oh, & that trick for cracking the crank pulley bolt (didn't I read somewhere it's likely to shear off the head?) tried it years ago on a Triumph 1300, it just liftet one wheel off the ground!

Sorry if I sound bitter - it's just that I'm just very disappointed, 'cos I really don't like being beaten, especially by cars AND I don't like having to pay others to do things when I'll never know if they did the job properly.

[CitroJim]

Van, honestly it's not as bad as it sounds...

I've used the 'starter motor' method to undo the crank bolt on almost every XUD I've ever done a belt on and always without issue...

I must say the DW8/XUD is possibly the hardest of the PSA engine belts. I reckon the V6 is easier...