Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Moderator: RichardW
Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Any advice appreciated on flushing and bleeding Xantia V6 coolant. Going to do it tomorrow, found one bleed screw so far under a plastic cover near the air box and the coolant reservoir. Particularly want to clean out the gearbox oil cooler.
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
I have sent you some data via email.elma wrote:Any advice appreciated on flushing and bleeding Xantia V6 coolant. Going to do it tomorrow, found one bleed screw so far under a plastic cover near the air box and the coolant reservoir. Particularly want to clean out the gearbox oil cooler.
Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Thanks Mike, looks very handy. I just have to work out what some of the pictures on page 2 are of then I can get going with confidence.
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
I'd appreciate a copy if there's one available [emoji18]
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Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Mike
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Pm me your email and I shall pass it on.
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Gosh James, at this rate your V6 is going to be the best S1 in the country
Jim
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Done by March is the plan Jim, looking forward to just enjoying it. I wish I could reach these blooming Lhm leaks they haunt my thoughts at the moment. Maybe today I'll get my hands on the first one.
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
I understand that James. I hate LHM leaks - in fact any leaks - myself...
Jim
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
There are four bleed screws - I did this job recently myself after changing a radiator. One bleed screw is in the top corner of the radiator at the battery end.
There are two allen head bolts on the thermostat assembly - one on the upper section and one on the bottom section. You'll need to remove the air filter box to get at them. (which is step one on any V6 job ) These two allen head bolts look "out of place" and when you unscrew them half way you'll find they're in fact hollow with a side drilling half way up...
The fourth bleed screw is at the top of the heater matrix hose joint - you can't see it but if you reach up under where the two hoses go into the firewall for the heater matrix you'll feel what is basically a tyre valve cap with an o-ring in it, I just remove it completely during bleeding to allow it to flow. (The two allen screws can just be unscrewed half way)
I found it extremely easy to bleed compared to some engines, no problems with air locks at all and the coolant expansion chamber is the highest part of the system so you don't even need to use an extra header tank! Just pour it in and close each bleed screw in turn as they flow.
There are two allen head bolts on the thermostat assembly - one on the upper section and one on the bottom section. You'll need to remove the air filter box to get at them. (which is step one on any V6 job ) These two allen head bolts look "out of place" and when you unscrew them half way you'll find they're in fact hollow with a side drilling half way up...
The fourth bleed screw is at the top of the heater matrix hose joint - you can't see it but if you reach up under where the two hoses go into the firewall for the heater matrix you'll feel what is basically a tyre valve cap with an o-ring in it, I just remove it completely during bleeding to allow it to flow. (The two allen screws can just be unscrewed half way)
I found it extremely easy to bleed compared to some engines, no problems with air locks at all and the coolant expansion chamber is the highest part of the system so you don't even need to use an extra header tank! Just pour it in and close each bleed screw in turn as they flow.
Simon
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Tip....take great CARE when opening the (4th) heater matrix bleed valve cap, it is very easy to undo it to far and thus easy to drop it, you will not find it again !
I replaced mine (and its little o-ring) with a metal tyre valve cap. (No way I like a little plastic cap being the only barrier to all my coolant)
I replaced mine (and its little o-ring) with a metal tyre valve cap. (No way I like a little plastic cap being the only barrier to all my coolant)
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Good point Alasdair and as you found they’re not standard valve caps...
I've 'lost' them in the past too...
I have a few spares knocking around as the 1.9TD also uses one too...
I've 'lost' them in the past too...
I have a few spares knocking around as the 1.9TD also uses one too...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
But it's not a proper bleed valve, just a cap so it has to be removed fully to bleed properly ? I found that it wouldn't bleed unless I removed it.Stickyfinger wrote:Tip....take great CARE when opening the (4th) heater matrix bleed valve cap, it is very easy to undo it to far and thus easy to drop it, you will not find it again !
But yes, be careful with it. Just to be the odd one out I did drop mine but I did find it again!
Yes it's surprising a little plastic tyre valve cap with an o-ring can withstand nearly 100 degrees and 1.4 bars but apparently it does!I replaced mine (and its little o-ring) with a metal tyre valve cap. (No way I like a little plastic cap being the only barrier to all my coolant)
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
Re: Flush and bleed V6 coolant
Thank you for the help. With all the advice and the diagrams it went quite smoothly. Good to know the process for when the waterpump is changed and even better to have new coolant in for winter.