The old C5 Handbrake thing.

[lexi]

I have no handbrake operation on front o/s. Suspecting the usual cable issues, I took wheel off and console at handbrake.
Cables were a little stiff, but soon got them free and lubed up with a paraffin gun and some putty over cable entry points. Fired fluid right through till exiting the ends. Cables have through movement by hand at each end. Still no holding power on that disc. With the cable operating the lever on the caliper fully, the disc still turns easily.
Is there anything I am missing before a new caliper is purchased. When I got the car 16 months ago, the calipers were new shiny recons.
That means nothing of course. As the handbrake was never good, I suspect that whoever fitted it has made the mistake of initially bringing the lever to the cable, rather than cable to lever. AFAIK, if you do that the mechanism is goosed.
Any thoughts chaps?

[dnsey]

I believe that the mechanism can be reset - something along the lines of winding the piston back as far as it will go, then winding forward a quarter-turn. No doubt others will know the details.

Edit: Paraffin gun on the cables is a great idea - I'm going to try that!

[lexi]

I will try the piston reset thing. Shame to scrap a perfectly good caliper. The spring return on lever also seems weak.
Those calipers are poor and we cant blame Citroen as they don't actually make them.

[Gibbo2286]

Paraffin gun on the cables is a great idea - I'm going to try that!

Probably not such a good idea, the cables are in a nylon sleeve and the reason for them getting sluggish is usually that the nylon sleeve is rucking up and acting as a brake, paraffin could make that happen sooner.

Did you check that the lever on the calliper is moving freely? If it doesn't go right back to the stop the self adjust can't work.

[Hell Razor5543]

There is a Citroen specialist in my area (got to find out their details) that makes up their own guide tubes from copper, so as to control the corrosion.

[dnsey]

Yes, if the lever return is sluggish, they may well be on their last legs anyway. You might be able to get a few more months out of them by lubricating the lever pivots, but it's a losing battle, as the problem is usually internal. I'm increasingly convinced that it's a result of neglecting scheduled brake fluid changes, resulting in water in the fluid corroding the handbrake mechanism.
As far as paraffin goes, I had in mind to use silicone grease dissolved in white spirit or similar, but it wouldn't help, of course, if the liners are rucking up as you say.
Copper guide tubes - now there's a thought!

[Gibbo2286]

It's really a matter of getting the lube right through the lever shaft dnsey, mine were seized when I bought the car but I freed them off and periodically raised the car to full height reached under and sprayed them with WD40 followed by 3in1 oil, they've been good now for over three years.

[lexi]

I put moly grease thinned in white spirit inside the gun.
I have already changed the brake fluid all through. The fluid may have been renewed on fitting the recon calipers as well.
My cables are free anyway. My mot is not till May next year The lever won't go back to the stop itself. The spring is not strong enough to pull it back. I think the calipers are only 2 years from recon. I may try a stronger spring.

[dnsey]

It's really a matter of getting the lube right through the lever shaft dnsey, mine were seized when I bought the car but I freed them off and periodically raised the car to full height reached under and sprayed them with WD40 followed by 3in1 oil, they've been good now for over three years.

Perhaps there are two different failure modes.
I've always found that exercising the arm,even when seized almost solid, frees it for a short time even if no lubricant is used, but no amount of lubrication (including removing the arm and using penetrating oil, lube oil and grease directly into the pivot) will provide a lasting cure.
I've seen pictures of similar calipers with heavily rusted handbrake internals, which could only have been caused by water inside the housing. If the rebuilders didn't offer a refund for the old units, I'd dismantle one to see what's going on.
When the calipers are new, the handbrake lever will return without the assistance of the springs, suggesting that the springs themselves were added to the design in an attempt to solve the problem.

[lexi]

Interesting that Dnsey. Would be better that adjusting mech was packed with Ceramic or maybe rubber grease to keep working. Maybe they are at new and it washes out?
Lots of the cheaper Ebay suppliers have dried up on those calipers. Last year I got 2 rears for about 95quid and they were giving £15 back if you sent old unit back. Maybe some of the springs and bits on reconditioned ones are poor quality. Might get 10 yrs out of original and only 2yrs from a cheap recon. Salty roads will no doubt do it's work

[lexi]

I went back to this today with a few hours to spare. Took the spring off and cleaned it all thoroughly. The set screw that holds the plate on was loose. The plate connects drive pinion from handbrake to the cable. I thought the hole in plate would have spline to fit the drive pinion? Mine was smooth. Maybe with it turning and seized pinion shaft?
Freed the shaft by working it . Packed the rubber seal with Duckhams Keenol and tapped the plate onto the shaft. Gave it a good tighten and put the spring back on with Keenol grease.
The hand brake now works and holds. With no splines on my plate, I was going to put 2 tack welds on to hold it. Maybe there is a bit missing or should the plate be splined as you would think? No drawing and could not be bothered stripping the working side to compare.

[dnsey]

Yes, the plate should be splined - sounds as though it's been moving on the seized shaft.
I'll be surprised if the mechanism stays free for long - I'd suggest checking it very few days.
I've tried lithium grease, silicone grease, brake lubricant and all sorts in the past, with no lasting success.
The welding heat might help, but beware of damaging the rubber shaft seal.
I might try contacting the rebuilder I've used before, and ask them what they see as causing this problem.

[lexi]

Thanks Dnsey. Mig isn't too bad as it is a cold weld process, although still much heat. Reason I did not do the welding was to keep caliper serviceable for the inevitable exchange thing. At least I know how to get handbrake working when MOT comes up. I may ask around for a plate that has a spline in it.