Citroen berlingo won´t start after replacing pulley (FIXED)

[RichardW]

Pin the cam at the timing position, slack the belt off, then you need to rock the crank till you can get the timing pin in the flywheel behind the starter - either put the pulley bolt back in and use that, or take the lower cover plate off and lever it round using the starter ring. Once you've got the timing pin in, then you can re-tension the cambelt. Not sure how you lock the crank to tighten the bolt back up - I would not rely on the timing pin; maybe Haynes gives some guidance on that? A locking clamp in the starter ring perhaps.

[mighty]

Yes, the haynes manual insists on using a locking tool on the flywheel tooth as well as a locking pin, even for loosening the crank pulley bolt. Problem is I didn't read that before I set out to change the pulley the way I have done before. Only this time the engine had a floating pulley/sprocket which screwed up everything

Thanks very much for your help so far guys.

[Paul-R]

Though it does say to use a 2mm rod to the left of the woodruff key to keep it in place while fitting the timing belt. But my key is already at the left of the slot and I dont know how to get it back to the other side.

This is the spacer I was talking about. You need to have that in place while tightening the big pulley bolt up. You need to slacken that bolt off a bit in order to get enough slack to put the 2mm rod in position and then tighten up.

[Bick]

Ive done a few of these and if you get the gap to the left of the woodruff key when fitting the belt you dont need the 2mm locking peg as it usually says set.

However i just cant see your non start problem being caused by this minor mishap you are only 1/2 a tooth out at worst. I really hope im wrong - good luck.

[mighty]

I cannot see it either, but the haynes manual says that the valve timing will be lost if done without proper locking of flywheel and cam. What else could move in relation to the other components besides this sprocket? Nothing else could be offset as long as the belt stays on?

The fault code really sounds more like a sensor issue rather than a mechanical issue causing it to ble slightly out of sync.. But what's the chance of the sensor randomly braking at the same time i'm changing the pulley?

Btw, it doesn't seem to get any fuel while cranking but it think the ecu is cutting that out.

[wheeler]

Most likely the ECU will be seeing the cam & crank not in sync so it wont fire the engine.
I have changed plenty of DW10 timing belts & have never needed to use the spacer rod either but of course the flywheel is locked during this.

[Mandrake]

Lexia throws 2 fault codes when cranking;

1. permanent fault, cylinder reference signal short circuit between 2 wires or open circuit.

I would interpret this to say that it believes the cam position sensor wiring is either shorted or open (strange that it doesn't have a separate fault code for both possibilities) and not giving any signal, if this is the case I can't see how the engine would start without a cam position signal to synchronise with the crank sensor!

I would check the wiring to the cam sensor and crank sensor too for that matter. Sounds like you have disturbed the sensors or the wiring. From what I remember when we did Richards 1.6HDi cam belt the crank sensor and it's cable is right in amongst the timing belt in the crank area, so I would check that carefully. Sometimes an ECU will report a cam sensor problem for a faulty crank sensor and vica versa so check both.

[wheeler]

On the DW10 the crank sensor is on the bellhousing & reads the flywheel so shouldn't have been disturbed.
as for the short or open circuit fault, like you say its strange that it doesent differentiate between the two. I often find this can translate into the sensor is just not seeing what its expecting to see & that is the best description for the fault code.
A quick lexia live data check will quickly rule out the crank sensor if its giving an RPM signal. I reckon this has to be the timing out slightly, if the ECU doesent see cam & crank synchronisation it will not fire the injectors. Would have to be an amazing coincidence for there now to be a cam sensor wiring fault. The cam sensor is hall effect so wont do any harm to check if it has a power supply (cant remember if this one is a 5v or 12v supply) & an earth. I've replaced a few faulty DW10 crank sensors but cant think ive ever had to change a cam sensor on one.

[mighty]

I have a berlingo with the same engine sitting here pending a head gasket change, so I have the possibility of switching over a sensor if need be. I will try tomorrow to get the crank sprocket in the right position again primarily and check live data for sensor info. Thanks

[mighty]

So, I fixed it! All I really had to do was to lock the cam and turn the crank with a crowbar at the flywheel until the woodruff key was in the right position again. And it started right up Seems like this very small timing fault was enough to make it not want to start.


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[RichardW]

Nice one