Xantia crankshaft oil seal and clutch

[CitroJim]

With no leaks Larry, the bellhousing should, as Richard says, be reasonably clean and dry...

[lazza]

Ok, points taken, have ordered parts. Tbh seemed to have all the hallmarks of engine oil rather than gearbox oil in the bellhousing, but to be sure i will renew the input shaft seal anyway.

I've been cleaning the gunk with petrol from a hand-push type sprayer- but it's not ideal, anyone have any tips on cleaning?

[CitroJim]

Last time I had a mucky bell housing I scraped away as much of the mess as possible and then rinsed with brake cleaner... Safer than petrol..

White spirit, if you’re not allergic to it, is good too..

[lazza]

Going back to the hub nut i couldnt get off. A auestion on what harryp mentioned:

Can i use an impact driver on the hub with the RH driveshaft already out of the gearbox and bearing etc?? Thinking of buying an impact wrench like harryp said so I can get the hub nut off without having to put everything back together again and use a breaker bar etc.

But i'm concerned that the impact driver on the hub will just spin the hub-

[RichardW]

Stick in a couple of wheel bolts and apply the handbrake....or jam them with a bar off the floor.

Although the advantage of impact drivers is that they don't transmit much rotational force to the stationary part of the system so you could well hold the disc by hand.

[lazza]

HI

Finally got a bit of time and parts i ordered.

I changed the input shaft drive seal. However, had a bit of trouble putting the new one in- had to gently knock it in with a blunt tool. I only read after doing it in the Haynes manual that you should dip it in clean oil first (not sure how I missed that)- could this be a problem?

The new seal wasnt quite as deeply in as the one I extracted- I guessed the bolts would have brought it home fully??

Have a made big mistakes or do you think it will be ok?

[lazza]

Ayyy Help! Disaster strikes.

Whilst using the technique to take the old oil seal out as suggested in Haynes- as I was drilling to be able to insert a screw into the old seal, it looks like i've put a nip in the seal housing- i'm very surprised as I used a low-power electric screw driver to drill precisely to reduce risk of any damage. Dont understand how it happened.



Have I just ruined my car? do you think this there's any chance that this might not ruin the seal?

[xantia_v6]

I don't think the knick will cause any serious problems as it is not near the sealing surface. I would just reassemble carefully and cross my fingers.

[lazza]

Ok- thanks! Fingers crossed then

[lazza]

Hi guys

Well very pleased with myself i took the car out on a test drive, clutch and gearbox back on car, all damaged boots, balljoint etc replaced and clutch is working fine and now oil leaks seemed to be confined to smaller ones from above that will be my next big job- all set for MOT

Or so i thought! When i was checking under the car for oil leaks I saw a lovely splashing of grease on the RH outer CV joint area.....

Turns out there's a small split in the outer CV joint boot- i guess damaged from all the knocking around I'd been doing on that side replacing the inner CV boot.

It's quite a big job the outer CV boot from what I can tell in Haynes... any advice? Is it quicker/cheaper to take it to a garage?

[Bargeman]

Hi Lazza

Nice job.

Can you remember what size the drive shaft nut is please, I might have a "growning" CV joint.

Hope you can help

Bargeman

[lazza]

Hi bargeman

It's a 35mm socket. If you're going to use a breaker bar I'd recommend a 3/4 inch one. I've managed to break a 1/2 inch breaker bar, t-bar and rachet on this job. Bought an electric impact wrench- works marvels

https://www.amazon.es/Jago-ESSR01-Desto ... de+Impacto

Only doubt is on tightening not quite sure when to stop on the torque

[Bargeman]

Thanks for the info.

Will try a 3/4 socket T bar and length of pipe. See what happens.

Bargeman