Should I change my spheres?

[waynedance]

Had the old C5 for 5 years and as far as I know the spheres are from New.

The bounce test seems ok, going along roads with minor imperfections feels like the suspension bounces too much. Hard to explain but due to the age and 122k would it be best to renew anyway?

Also trying to eliminate the steering wheel shaking at approx 60-70mph. Had the wheels balanced, new suspension arm, new track and tie rods.. At said speed the steering shakes when slightly turned as if the steering is loose. Fine at slower speed, any ideas?

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[xantia_v6]

The original C5 spheres have multi-layer diaphragms which can easily last for 10 years, often 15, so 5 years would be a fairly early failure.
Depending on the availability of a pressure tester near you, getting them tested is cheaper than replacing them all.

[waynedance]

I would assume they are as old as the car, no history of a change and I have not done them in the last 5 years.
I am thinking the tyres could be the problem, I read somewhere that C5's like Michelin boots.

[Old-Guy]

I'd suggest that you jack up each front wheel in turn, then spin it slowly while checking by feel and eye for distortion in tread and sidewalls.

Some years ago, I experienced similar symptoms with the factory fitted tyres on a Rover still under warranty. The casings were obviously distorted - just running a hand around the tread, I could feel very obvious flat spots (no, not in the habit of locking up the front wheels!). As there wasn't much life left in the tyres I fitted a pair of new Avons on the front - problem solved. Over time the remaining 3 original tyres all went out-of-round and had to be replaced when the vibration became unpleasant.

[Peter.N.]

I had to change mine but the car had done nearer to 200k. If the suspension will bounce a reasonable amount, say 2-3" at the front and 4-5" at the rear they should be OK. The ride on the 2.0. is not as good as the 2.2 as that has hydractive, but the 2.0. is much better on fuel.

Like 'Old Guy' I have had problems with the casings failing due to ply separation, the wheels balance OK but still shake at speed.

Peter

Just noticed yours is hydractive, the centre spheres are the ones that make all the difference to the ride.

[waynedance]

My tryes at the moment are approx half worn. One of the fronts has a puncture repair and one has a very slight imperfection in side wall like it has been kerbed.

Not sure what tyres to get, Dunlop sport blue response seem to get good reviews. Currently sitting on vredestein quatrac 3 all seasons.

I may change the spheres anyway, looking to keep car.

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[Zelandeth]

The one brand of tyres I've used on a number of cars are Kumho, and to be honest I've never had any complaints. They make some real basic budget rubber, but also some pretty decent stuff, so just buy accordingly. Have had them on Metros, Sierras, (old school) Pandas, a Lada Riva and a couple of Saab 900s when I couldn't afford Uniroyals which are my usual choice there. The ones I had on the Saab were quite a soft, sticky compound that didn't last very well (900s do chew front tyres for a passtime), but they were cheap enough I really didn't mind.

Recently fitted a set of Falkens to the Xantia, mixed result there in it has resulted in razor sharp handling and face-distorting levels of grip. At the cost of a crashier low speed ride and quite a lot more road noise.

The one brand I won't touch is Continental. Three or four cars I've had Continental rubber on got new tyres when there was still 50% or more tread remaining because the tyres just seemed to have no grip. You should not be able to get major 2nd gear wheelspin in a stock Pug 107 on a slightly damp road...they seem okayish when new, but seem to turn to plastic after a couple of years. Previous one to that with them on was my Riva, which had (quite expensive) Continentals on the front and would understeer for the country and would lock the front brakes at a moment's notice in all weathers to the extent that it was downright dangerous. I was seriously starting to wonder if there was something dire wrong with the brakes and suspension, but two £30 Kumhos on there and the problems totally vanished and it actually handled pretty well (well...by Riva standards anyway). Stuck a couple on the back as well to replace the original 15 year old Russian tyres as they were perishing unsurprisingly and it then became near unstoppable in the snow too. There's something satisfying about rescuing a stuck Land Rover in a rear wheel drive saloon - then proceeding to tow said Land Rover up the hill they couldn't get up without any drama.

[waynedance]

My previous tyres before these all seasons were infact Kumho's and yes i thought they were really good. I was looking at the new Goodyear or dunlop blue response I think they are. Did the C5 come with michelin from New?

I know a few years ago a chap had some falkens on his executive Audi A8 taxi and he soon binned then due to being too noisy.

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[Peter.N.]

I have always used budget tyres until now, I put a couple of Michelin economy tyres (I think they are called) of the front of my 406 and they are much quieter and were only about £8-9 dearer than the cheapies. They came out very well in the Which? test for quietness and long life, the grip wasn't the best but at the speed I drive that's not a problem.

Peter

[waynedance]

Ok just ordered some Michelin Cross Climate tyres seem to get good reviews.

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[wurlycorner]

Also trying to eliminate the steering wheel shaking at approx 60-70mph. Had the wheels balanced, new suspension arm, new track and tie rods.. At said speed the steering shakes when slightly turned as if the steering is loose. Fine at slower speed, any ideas?

As well as things suggested by others...
Is the front suspension height correct?
Any wear in the driveshafts?
Any wear in the steering column joints?

My C5 had the suspension too high at the front when I bought it. That had knackered a drive shaft because it had been like it for so long. Sorted those problems, but it had also caused excessive wear in the steering column joints, which I haven't got round to sorting yet.

[waynedance]

By steering column joints do you mean the inner tie rods? Changed them along with track rod ends, 1 x new suspension arm and 4 x new tyres. I have ordered the 6 x new spheres.

Still getting a shake on the steering feels like something loose, no play in anything. Had a new os drive shaft few months back.

Will, wait till new spheres fitted and see how it is.

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[Old-Guy]

Steering column joints as in universal (Crook) joints in the shaft between upper steering column and pinion.

[wurlycorner]

Steering column = the column between the steering wheel and the rack

[waynedance]

Can not see any excessive play on the column.

Its hard to explain, if going say 65mph and hold the wheel slightly to the left or right it will shake asif something loose.

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