Hi.
I've got a 1996 Xantia VSX Estate. It's got the 1.9TD engine. Is there anything that I can do to make it slightly quicker?
I've looked a tuning sites and they suggest you change the boost. Can do that. But some also list an uprated intercooler. Would this make a difference? If so where would be the best place to buy one?
Or would it be just best to pay out the money and have it done at a tuning shop and they can then tune it properly?
Ste
Xantia TD Tuning
Moderator: RichardW
-
oilyspanner
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 26 Oct 2003, 16:08
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DONT go chaning the boost until you have turned up the fueling first!
And i'd start with the more basics that are cheap/free performance enhancers. A decent engine oil makes all the difference to the engine power and more importantly smoothness. Id reccommend Castrol GTD, but any oil specifically designed for Turbo Diesel and carrying the B3 grading should make a noticeable difference.
Then give the injectors a thourough cleaning. Some sort of in fuel injector cleaner seems to be the best, theres hundreds to choose from; STP, Nitrox, Reddex. May not seem to make an instant difference, but over time it will.
I tend to find Shell Diesel Extra lets the car run smoother, and start better first thing in the morning. I try to stick with it, especially on long haul trips.
There are only two ways to increase the power in any diesel; more air, and more fuel! So since the standard air intake is quite restricting (pretty good for normal sub 50 mph driving) it isnt supplied with enough air. With a diesel you will gain by taking in moving air (unlike with a petrol where ideally your meant to have still air). So ditch the standard air filter for something with a bit more flow (K&N style induction kit) and give it a good air flow, preferably from the bumper area.
Now the Cit TD engine is tuned/setup for a balance between ecconomy and power. To get more power your likely to loose some ecconomy (although in many situations the ecconomy can be increased).
What the pro's do is find the maximum possible power performance without wasting fuel or ecconomy. There's a lot of fine tuning and more often than not some pretty good technology to really tune it up. Firstly you up the fuel to a point where it isnt all pooring out the back. This will instantly make a difference to the car as before the turbo it will have a lot more grunt! Then you can slowly up the boost pressure. I know of cases where this has been taken upto 1.7psi but its not advised to go further than 1.3psi, again, your going to need a guage to measure this, and an accurate one will cost! A decent tunning session will cost between £100 and £150, but remember these guys really know what there doing, and you cold save that in fuel alone!
Just to really improve things you could stick on a less restrictive exhaust, but the exact science for this is still a bit of a grey area for me!
So now your getting the optimum fuel through the engine you want to really start working on getting the best air. Ideally you want to be putting in O2 which is not quite liquid. So the best way to chill the air is to put it under pressure! And thats all the turbo really does, forces air into the engine, compressing it to get more and more in. But you want this air to be cold as it gets forced in, unfortunately it tends to be warm so the solution is the intercooler. This cools the charge (air) going into the engine by running cold air back over the warm pressurised air (pretty obvious) so the bigger the intercooler, the bigger the surface area and the cooler the air that finnaly makes it into the engine. Allard do one that is compatable with the Xantia which costs around £400ish with fitting kit.
Once its fitted you'll need to get the engine retuned, as all the variables will have changed, the bloack will probably cope with more pressure if the charge going in is super cool.
But after this point it gets stupid expensive. You could add a charge cooler, does the same sort of job as the intercooler (cooling the charge air) but in a similar way to air con.
You might also consider water injection, squirting amounts of de ionised water directly into the cylinders in order to increase the o2 in the cylinder (as the second it gets in the chamber it will become gas).
Then if your really after that poke you could start looking at twin intercoolers (so that the engine is always running boost), or even that haven of fast and furious NOS! Im told that it can be done, but who knows for sure, i cant find anyone who ever has.
If your close enough Allards are THE best i know of for diesel tuning, they have apparently had 350Bhp from a 1.5 litre diesel! Impressive!
And i'd start with the more basics that are cheap/free performance enhancers. A decent engine oil makes all the difference to the engine power and more importantly smoothness. Id reccommend Castrol GTD, but any oil specifically designed for Turbo Diesel and carrying the B3 grading should make a noticeable difference.
Then give the injectors a thourough cleaning. Some sort of in fuel injector cleaner seems to be the best, theres hundreds to choose from; STP, Nitrox, Reddex. May not seem to make an instant difference, but over time it will.
I tend to find Shell Diesel Extra lets the car run smoother, and start better first thing in the morning. I try to stick with it, especially on long haul trips.
There are only two ways to increase the power in any diesel; more air, and more fuel! So since the standard air intake is quite restricting (pretty good for normal sub 50 mph driving) it isnt supplied with enough air. With a diesel you will gain by taking in moving air (unlike with a petrol where ideally your meant to have still air). So ditch the standard air filter for something with a bit more flow (K&N style induction kit) and give it a good air flow, preferably from the bumper area.
Now the Cit TD engine is tuned/setup for a balance between ecconomy and power. To get more power your likely to loose some ecconomy (although in many situations the ecconomy can be increased).
What the pro's do is find the maximum possible power performance without wasting fuel or ecconomy. There's a lot of fine tuning and more often than not some pretty good technology to really tune it up. Firstly you up the fuel to a point where it isnt all pooring out the back. This will instantly make a difference to the car as before the turbo it will have a lot more grunt! Then you can slowly up the boost pressure. I know of cases where this has been taken upto 1.7psi but its not advised to go further than 1.3psi, again, your going to need a guage to measure this, and an accurate one will cost! A decent tunning session will cost between £100 and £150, but remember these guys really know what there doing, and you cold save that in fuel alone!
Just to really improve things you could stick on a less restrictive exhaust, but the exact science for this is still a bit of a grey area for me!
So now your getting the optimum fuel through the engine you want to really start working on getting the best air. Ideally you want to be putting in O2 which is not quite liquid. So the best way to chill the air is to put it under pressure! And thats all the turbo really does, forces air into the engine, compressing it to get more and more in. But you want this air to be cold as it gets forced in, unfortunately it tends to be warm so the solution is the intercooler. This cools the charge (air) going into the engine by running cold air back over the warm pressurised air (pretty obvious) so the bigger the intercooler, the bigger the surface area and the cooler the air that finnaly makes it into the engine. Allard do one that is compatable with the Xantia which costs around £400ish with fitting kit.
Once its fitted you'll need to get the engine retuned, as all the variables will have changed, the bloack will probably cope with more pressure if the charge going in is super cool.
But after this point it gets stupid expensive. You could add a charge cooler, does the same sort of job as the intercooler (cooling the charge air) but in a similar way to air con.
You might also consider water injection, squirting amounts of de ionised water directly into the cylinders in order to increase the o2 in the cylinder (as the second it gets in the chamber it will become gas).
Then if your really after that poke you could start looking at twin intercoolers (so that the engine is always running boost), or even that haven of fast and furious NOS! Im told that it can be done, but who knows for sure, i cant find anyone who ever has.
If your close enough Allards are THE best i know of for diesel tuning, they have apparently had 350Bhp from a 1.5 litre diesel! Impressive!
-
DarkendViper
- Posts: 98
- Joined: 03 Jan 2004, 22:18
- Location:
- My Cars:
I just want a bit more power/torque. Not after specific figures but want it to feel quicker. Economy isn't that big a problem.
It's done 155,000 miles but oil and filter's been changed at every 5500-6000 miles. Oil used is Castrol GTD Plus. Filters are Purflux ones. Air filter is a K & N Panel filter. The air intake has been modified a bit but with it being low down and the nice wet weather we get i didn't want to alter it too much. Any ideas for this?
Fuel pump on mine is a bosch I think. Pretty sure of it. It runs very sweet for the mileage and people think it's done less than 100,000.
Think that the intercooler route might be a bit expensive. I don't use Shell Diesel Extra just due to it being so far away. I use BP Ultimate Diesel when I can and if not stick some redex in every other month. Made a big difference to economy after second tankful had gone through.
I spoke to a mechanic and he said that a free flow exhaust was pointless on a diesel. He suggested a de-cat but mine doesn't have one.
Ste
It's done 155,000 miles but oil and filter's been changed at every 5500-6000 miles. Oil used is Castrol GTD Plus. Filters are Purflux ones. Air filter is a K & N Panel filter. The air intake has been modified a bit but with it being low down and the nice wet weather we get i didn't want to alter it too much. Any ideas for this?
Fuel pump on mine is a bosch I think. Pretty sure of it. It runs very sweet for the mileage and people think it's done less than 100,000.
Think that the intercooler route might be a bit expensive. I don't use Shell Diesel Extra just due to it being so far away. I use BP Ultimate Diesel when I can and if not stick some redex in every other month. Made a big difference to economy after second tankful had gone through.
I spoke to a mechanic and he said that a free flow exhaust was pointless on a diesel. He suggested a de-cat but mine doesn't have one.
Ste
I wouldn't agree about changes to the exhaust being pointless on a TD - on my XM TD12 I have re-routed the exhaust and left out the cross-mounted silencer behind the rear axle. I used standard stainless 2 1/2 inch piping and retained the standard rear silencer. There is no significant change to the exhaust noise level and the turbo definetely spins up faster and is more responsive. However I wouldn't claim any extra power.
//NiSk
//NiSk
Ste
it sounds like you have all the basics covered, so its time to either tune it up yourself, get it tuned for you, or spend a lot of money to get anything 'extra' out of it. With a second intercooler and a rack of other bits im reckoning i can take mine from 85Bhp to 120Bhp ish, but more importantly from 140+lb/ft torque to over 200lb/ft.
If you want to tune it yourself, then try finding a drag strip such as Santa Pod and do the tuning there. That way you can tinker with the fuel/boost settings, do a 1/4mile up the track and see how it feels. Then back to the pit and tweak the earlier tinkering. Since you usually get unlimited runs, it can make tuning up and testing a lot cheaper.
A complete free flow exhaust will make starting VERY difficult on a diesel, you need to keep some back pressure. But like Nisk has said, a reduction in the back pressure does make some difference to the way the turbo spins up.
it sounds like you have all the basics covered, so its time to either tune it up yourself, get it tuned for you, or spend a lot of money to get anything 'extra' out of it. With a second intercooler and a rack of other bits im reckoning i can take mine from 85Bhp to 120Bhp ish, but more importantly from 140+lb/ft torque to over 200lb/ft.
If you want to tune it yourself, then try finding a drag strip such as Santa Pod and do the tuning there. That way you can tinker with the fuel/boost settings, do a 1/4mile up the track and see how it feels. Then back to the pit and tweak the earlier tinkering. Since you usually get unlimited runs, it can make tuning up and testing a lot cheaper.
A complete free flow exhaust will make starting VERY difficult on a diesel, you need to keep some back pressure. But like Nisk has said, a reduction in the back pressure does make some difference to the way the turbo spins up.
hi, again
sorry vanny but diesels hate back pressure unlike petrol counter parts also unlike petrol engines the exhaust note doesn't get any louder with freeflow exhaust pipes
also diesels like big exhaust pipe diameter bigger the better!!!
if you want to tune your diesel pump it's very simple to increase performance
but first
diesel tanks is an excellent to breed bacteria this can pull down performance
with your car been around for 10 years it is very possible that you and everybody else has loads living in your tank!!
run the diesel out of the tank totally(get a couple of gallons of diesel to put back in!!) take off the tank and wash out with a couple of gallons of petrol which kills the little fellows
try to get as much petrol out as you can (don't worry if you can't get it all out)
once you've done that put in the 2gallons you got earlier
change the diesel filter before you try to start the engine
also make sure to clean out the filter bowl with petrol aswell
right that done off to diesel station fill tank up to top (drive steady)
if there is any petrol in the tank it will be so weak as to have no affect
yes big intercoolers do work even on standard engines a very good intercooler is the one of a peugoet 405td (i know it's mounted on top of the engine in that car )mount it in front of the raidator between the fans and rad pipe to suit
if you get one from scrappy wash it out with petrol first ,then with soapy water leave to dry totally
fit a good quality air filter to the car in the standard airbox or a k+n don't go for a cone filter they just produce more noise
fun at first, tiring later
right before tuning the engine make sure the head gasket is in tip top shape if in any doubts change it and new head bolts aswell
as when you tune diesels the compression pressure rises and this will blow a poor head gasket
right for the turbo the garret turbo's are good and reliable(a friend has a renault 1.9td running 22psi boost been like that for 3 years now and no problems)
just make sure it's in good condition
if it is go to the local tuning shop you'll know where it is just listen for the loud music and a barrage of saxo's[:D]
ask for a bleed valve and a length of pipe about 30 quid tops
if they ask what car tell them a turbo(they are all the same)
fit this on the turbo
take off the old pipe between the wastegate and compresor housing mount it in such a way that it is easy to adjust near o/s headlight is a good place
screw the valve full in this is standard boost find a pressure gauge that reads between 0-20psi or 0-1.5bar preffable to be accurate!![:)]
once that's done
take car out for a drive(make sure valve is screwed right in!!!!!)
take a passenger
find a nice(quiet)strech of road with a slight uphill in third gear
now boot it from low down in gear say 1300rpm all the way to the govenor note max boost pressure
now slowly wind out valve (quarter turn at a time)till you get to 1 bar(15psi) fisrt part done!!
sorry vanny but diesels hate back pressure unlike petrol counter parts also unlike petrol engines the exhaust note doesn't get any louder with freeflow exhaust pipes
also diesels like big exhaust pipe diameter bigger the better!!!
if you want to tune your diesel pump it's very simple to increase performance
but first
diesel tanks is an excellent to breed bacteria this can pull down performance
with your car been around for 10 years it is very possible that you and everybody else has loads living in your tank!!
run the diesel out of the tank totally(get a couple of gallons of diesel to put back in!!) take off the tank and wash out with a couple of gallons of petrol which kills the little fellows
try to get as much petrol out as you can (don't worry if you can't get it all out)
once you've done that put in the 2gallons you got earlier
change the diesel filter before you try to start the engine
also make sure to clean out the filter bowl with petrol aswell
right that done off to diesel station fill tank up to top (drive steady)
if there is any petrol in the tank it will be so weak as to have no affect
yes big intercoolers do work even on standard engines a very good intercooler is the one of a peugoet 405td (i know it's mounted on top of the engine in that car )mount it in front of the raidator between the fans and rad pipe to suit
if you get one from scrappy wash it out with petrol first ,then with soapy water leave to dry totally
fit a good quality air filter to the car in the standard airbox or a k+n don't go for a cone filter they just produce more noise
fun at first, tiring later
right before tuning the engine make sure the head gasket is in tip top shape if in any doubts change it and new head bolts aswell
as when you tune diesels the compression pressure rises and this will blow a poor head gasket
right for the turbo the garret turbo's are good and reliable(a friend has a renault 1.9td running 22psi boost been like that for 3 years now and no problems)
just make sure it's in good condition
if it is go to the local tuning shop you'll know where it is just listen for the loud music and a barrage of saxo's[:D]
ask for a bleed valve and a length of pipe about 30 quid tops
if they ask what car tell them a turbo(they are all the same)
fit this on the turbo
take off the old pipe between the wastegate and compresor housing mount it in such a way that it is easy to adjust near o/s headlight is a good place
screw the valve full in this is standard boost find a pressure gauge that reads between 0-20psi or 0-1.5bar preffable to be accurate!![:)]
once that's done
take car out for a drive(make sure valve is screwed right in!!!!!)
take a passenger
find a nice(quiet)strech of road with a slight uphill in third gear
now boot it from low down in gear say 1300rpm all the way to the govenor note max boost pressure
now slowly wind out valve (quarter turn at a time)till you get to 1 bar(15psi) fisrt part done!!
Neil -
for god's sake [:p][:p]
what's that diesel bacteria stuff you're talking about [8D]
- as this MUST be the same in any central heating sytems fitted with oil burners & oil tanks !!
- and I definately dont like the idea of my boiler down there in the cellar under my feets is loaded with these small fella's [:D][:D]
for god's sake [:p][:p]
what's that diesel bacteria stuff you're talking about [8D]
- as this MUST be the same in any central heating sytems fitted with oil burners & oil tanks !!
- and I definately dont like the idea of my boiler down there in the cellar under my feets is loaded with these small fella's [:D][:D]
right ready for part two!![:)]
the bosch diesel pump (a gem the best pump ever, BOSCH invented the things)
right there are 2 ways to tune this pump
do you want economy while bimberlin around?
or do you want performance with a slight drop in economy,but excellent pick up and responce?[}:)]
right we'll go for the first one first???
on the top of the pump you'll see a square'ish plate with a pipe (rubber)going to it this is on boost fueling
take out the 4 10mm headed bolts, as you are undoing the last bolt hold pressure on the plate as there is a spring underneath when it's off you should have a rubber diaphram in there slowly lift it take note of it's position
i.e 12 o'clock ,1 o'clock if in doubt mark it with paint
that done check diaphram for ripes etc if damaged get a new one
under the diaphram and rod (connect together)you'll see a spring take out now you can see an adjuster wheel
it has teeth on it to lock it position you can carefully turn this with a screwdriver
anti-clockwise to incease diesel
clockwise to decrease
only go a few clicks at a time max 5
reassemble making sure everything goes back in correct order [:0]
now take out for a test drive (same road)
boot it again from low down 1300rpm keep an eye in rear veiw mirror for black smoke if you have go home and decrease(clockwise) diesel a click or two
if it doesn't black smoke increase(anti-clockwise) a little
also keep an eye on boost pressure as it might climb a little if it does turn back to 1bar (15psi)
keep doing this until black smoke appears then back it off a couple of clicks and your there
right second part of tuning
on the back of the pump you'll see 4 diesel pipes above those(NOT in the middle of) you'll see a stud with a 13mm locknut
on the stud it has a lead seal wire locked to the end and a steel clip covering the threads remove the seal also the steel clip(put in bin)[:0]
loosen the 13mm locknut and turn IN the 6mm stud about quarter of a turn(no more to start with)start the engine tickover will have raised slightly lower by adjusting tickover screw once done make sure everything is tight
now test drive(same road)you'll notice the pick up is a lot better check boost gauge and rear veiw mirror for black smoke
by adjusting this screw you've altered the fuel slope so if it going to back smoke it will be before the turbo kicks in i.e 1000-1500rpm but still take it right up the revs
it may have also increased max revs alter this by turning in (quarter of a turn) the max revs adjustment opposite to tickover
if it doesn't black smoke keep going till it does then back of slightly till it doesn't??hope all this makes sense[:I]
after you finished doing this you can also adjust on boost fueling (as start of part two)
word of warning if you drive hard while it's black smoking thats unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust
the exhaust temp will rise drasticly?and it will damage the turbo possibly the engine (the biggest killer of tuned diesels)
just adjust gradually till you get the feel of things
---hth neil---
the bosch diesel pump (a gem the best pump ever, BOSCH invented the things)
right there are 2 ways to tune this pump
do you want economy while bimberlin around?
or do you want performance with a slight drop in economy,but excellent pick up and responce?[}:)]
right we'll go for the first one first???
on the top of the pump you'll see a square'ish plate with a pipe (rubber)going to it this is on boost fueling
take out the 4 10mm headed bolts, as you are undoing the last bolt hold pressure on the plate as there is a spring underneath when it's off you should have a rubber diaphram in there slowly lift it take note of it's position
i.e 12 o'clock ,1 o'clock if in doubt mark it with paint
that done check diaphram for ripes etc if damaged get a new one
under the diaphram and rod (connect together)you'll see a spring take out now you can see an adjuster wheel
it has teeth on it to lock it position you can carefully turn this with a screwdriver
anti-clockwise to incease diesel
clockwise to decrease
only go a few clicks at a time max 5
reassemble making sure everything goes back in correct order [:0]
now take out for a test drive (same road)
boot it again from low down 1300rpm keep an eye in rear veiw mirror for black smoke if you have go home and decrease(clockwise) diesel a click or two
if it doesn't black smoke increase(anti-clockwise) a little
also keep an eye on boost pressure as it might climb a little if it does turn back to 1bar (15psi)
keep doing this until black smoke appears then back it off a couple of clicks and your there
right second part of tuning
on the back of the pump you'll see 4 diesel pipes above those(NOT in the middle of) you'll see a stud with a 13mm locknut
on the stud it has a lead seal wire locked to the end and a steel clip covering the threads remove the seal also the steel clip(put in bin)[:0]
loosen the 13mm locknut and turn IN the 6mm stud about quarter of a turn(no more to start with)start the engine tickover will have raised slightly lower by adjusting tickover screw once done make sure everything is tight
now test drive(same road)you'll notice the pick up is a lot better check boost gauge and rear veiw mirror for black smoke
by adjusting this screw you've altered the fuel slope so if it going to back smoke it will be before the turbo kicks in i.e 1000-1500rpm but still take it right up the revs
it may have also increased max revs alter this by turning in (quarter of a turn) the max revs adjustment opposite to tickover
if it doesn't black smoke keep going till it does then back of slightly till it doesn't??hope all this makes sense[:I]
after you finished doing this you can also adjust on boost fueling (as start of part two)
word of warning if you drive hard while it's black smoking thats unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust
the exhaust temp will rise drasticly?and it will damage the turbo possibly the engine (the biggest killer of tuned diesels)
just adjust gradually till you get the feel of things
---hth neil---
hi anders
don't know the name of hand
but because diesel doesn't get refined to the same extent as petrol it allows these little beggars to breed also with the ****[:0]in diesel that you get from the pumps like water and sand yes sand???
it proves to be a perfect breeding enviroment for them
i'll try to remember name so you can read all about these fuel pump wrecking buggers
nice to know you are never alone in your car though[:)]
don't know the name of hand
but because diesel doesn't get refined to the same extent as petrol it allows these little beggars to breed also with the ****[:0]in diesel that you get from the pumps like water and sand yes sand???
it proves to be a perfect breeding enviroment for them
i'll try to remember name so you can read all about these fuel pump wrecking buggers
nice to know you are never alone in your car though[:)]
-
DarkendViper
- Posts: 98
- Joined: 03 Jan 2004, 22:18
- Location:
- My Cars:
Thanks for that neilsxm. I'll give it a go at weekend and see how I get on with it.
Does anyone know what Allard Turbo Sport do to put a switch on the dash. Is it some sort of boost controller? and if so how does it work?
Oilyspanner - any chance of you emailing me that PDF? Cheers
Thanks again.
Ste
Does anyone know what Allard Turbo Sport do to put a switch on the dash. Is it some sort of boost controller? and if so how does it work?
Oilyspanner - any chance of you emailing me that PDF? Cheers
Thanks again.
Ste
nice to know you are never alone in your car though
and i thought the cars own personality was more than enough!!
The intercooler on the 405 TD is the same as that on the BX TD and the 306TD, its pretty small but semi thick. It's no different to that of a 1.9TD ZX. But the Xantia estate already has a VERY good front mounted intercooler, huge area but thinner than the over head intercooler. So i dont think that putting a 405 one infront of the rad is going to help (not to mention that there isnt the room infront of the rad and intercooler!).
Its just struck me that Ste's car is an estate! And this could be another hang up as far as power is concerned! The Xantia estates where de-tuned to 85 Bhp in order to achieve better fuel ecconomy (and im told for tax reasons), as standard the 1905cc TD should be 92 Bhp. I also have the de tuned engine which was putting out 86Bhp when first tuned. So there is a good long way to go as far as tuning is concerned!
Neil;
couple of questions im figuring you'll now the answer to!
Im taking the 1.9TD out of my current BX and sticking into a new 16v shell.
Firstly the new car has a petrol tank, nearly full at that. Can i just drain it and stick diesel in instead or should i swap it for the diesel tank and give it a thorough cleansing first? Will the little bugs squel as i kill them?
Why use a valve? Does this simply cause the pressure difference to drop, thus the waste gate will open later (with more boost)? It seems like a much easier way to do it than to climb underneath and adjust the spring ont he waste gate (which im told is a sod on the garrett). I thought the 1.9TD in the Xantia was purely run on a KKK turbo (but lets face it Cit where always chopping and changing!). From what i've read these are easier to adjust, but no one seems to have a deffinative on which is better, any thoughts?
I never said that diesels liked back pressure! But from experience, they dont tend to start quite so well if you take all the back boxes off, which is what i was pointing out. I've actually got a BX GTi exhaust at the moment, which is a HUGE diameter, purely because nothing else would fit my Xantia BX hybrid!
Anythoughts on sticking a second intercooler on? Im planning on sticking the overhead cooler in serie with the front mounted one.
and i thought the cars own personality was more than enough!!
The intercooler on the 405 TD is the same as that on the BX TD and the 306TD, its pretty small but semi thick. It's no different to that of a 1.9TD ZX. But the Xantia estate already has a VERY good front mounted intercooler, huge area but thinner than the over head intercooler. So i dont think that putting a 405 one infront of the rad is going to help (not to mention that there isnt the room infront of the rad and intercooler!).
Its just struck me that Ste's car is an estate! And this could be another hang up as far as power is concerned! The Xantia estates where de-tuned to 85 Bhp in order to achieve better fuel ecconomy (and im told for tax reasons), as standard the 1905cc TD should be 92 Bhp. I also have the de tuned engine which was putting out 86Bhp when first tuned. So there is a good long way to go as far as tuning is concerned!
Neil;
couple of questions im figuring you'll now the answer to!
Im taking the 1.9TD out of my current BX and sticking into a new 16v shell.
Firstly the new car has a petrol tank, nearly full at that. Can i just drain it and stick diesel in instead or should i swap it for the diesel tank and give it a thorough cleansing first? Will the little bugs squel as i kill them?
Why use a valve? Does this simply cause the pressure difference to drop, thus the waste gate will open later (with more boost)? It seems like a much easier way to do it than to climb underneath and adjust the spring ont he waste gate (which im told is a sod on the garrett). I thought the 1.9TD in the Xantia was purely run on a KKK turbo (but lets face it Cit where always chopping and changing!). From what i've read these are easier to adjust, but no one seems to have a deffinative on which is better, any thoughts?
I never said that diesels liked back pressure! But from experience, they dont tend to start quite so well if you take all the back boxes off, which is what i was pointing out. I've actually got a BX GTi exhaust at the moment, which is a HUGE diameter, purely because nothing else would fit my Xantia BX hybrid!
Anythoughts on sticking a second intercooler on? Im planning on sticking the overhead cooler in serie with the front mounted one.