Volcane subframe saga goes on.

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 10 Dec 2003, 01:29

Ok,
So the reconditioned sub-frame is fitted. Problem now is the car is about 2 inches too low at the back and dipped beam is for the moment high beam! [:(] Clearly the torsion bars seem to have been set wrongly although they are supposed to be set at the right level to avoid any messing about. I have seen the link about lowering pug 306(does not make it sound particularly fun)

http://www.tuning.co.uk/puglowering/lowering.htm.
I have also seen Dave's reply somewhere that they are easy to adjust but are they. Haynes gives the job it's highest 5* rating for difficulty. It also says a special tool is required to position the trailing arm correctly when refitting the torsion bar but it seems that nobody else has used this. I am never sure where they get there ideas from at times though, some things are a lot easier than they say and others which are easy I sometimes wish I had never started. It is "about" an hours labour at the Cit garage so probably about £70 all in. The supplier will cover the cost within reason though, I just do not like taking the car to Cit garages
My other concern just now though is are all ZX hatchback frames the same when it come to torsion bars. The one I have came off a TD but not a Volcane. Unfortunately my old one is not around to compare it just now.
Usual good advice much appreciated
Dave

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 10 Dec 2003, 04:42

The sporty version will have a larger diameter anti roll bar not sure about the torsion bars but is also very likely, if you still have the old one measure them.
If its a rebuilt axle there should be no siezed or rusted parts to contend with, it is just a slide hammering job to pull the bars out, reposition and knock them back in, the so called special tool just holds the arms in position making life easey (otherwise done with a jack), one would be simple to make if have access to a welder or know someone that has, but for £70 you might wan to let someone else have the grieff, at lest if they get it wrong they have to put it right.
Dave

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 11 Dec 2003, 01:49

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your reply. I have got my old one today and the torsion bars seem the same. I have also practiced removing the torsion bar. I undid the locking nut on one side while the anti roll bar nut was removed and hammered the swing arm outwards. This moved the torsion bar sufficient to free the splines at one end and the swing arm was free to move up and down. However, I am a bit reluctant to do the same with the new one. It also dislodges the anit roll bar. On an old one from the scrappy I would have done it. I know about the tool you mention but there is also another which clamps to the bottom shocker bracket and sets the distance for the swing arm from the axle as far as I can understand. (we are talking feeler guages as well)
Still thinking about best angle of approach as I have had quotes from other garages of £136[:0] because they may have do do the adjustment a couple of times to get it right
One thing out of all this is the wheel bearing noise I previously mentioned is gone (new hub[:D]). I am now concerned about the anti roll bar being different. The whole issue has turned into a bl**dy nigthmare at the moment.
I will update when sorted
Thanks again
Dave

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 11 Dec 2003, 03:11

Torsion bars usually come off with judicious wiggling once all attachments are off, refitting is trial and error with lots of jacking up and letting down due to the weight of the car, what have you got to lose (apart from £70?)
Stewart

Dave1 · Post by **Dave1** » 19 Jan 2004, 22:37

Just to bring this issue up to date and close it I hope, there is a difference between the Volcane subframes and those of other ZX's. The volcane torsion bars are 20mm in diameter and the anti roll bar is 22mm. Sorted things now and the car drives just as you would expect. No more jolts![:D]
Dave