Any tips for removing stubborn accumulator and rear suspension spheres? Oil filter removers not working!
Andrew
Xantia spheres
Moderator: RichardW
The classic hydraulic Citroen DIY problem [8D]
You need a sling tool - much the same design/idea as the chain strap oil filter removers - BUT using a belt (á la safety belt) with a thin rubber sheet insert - to positively grip on the sphere surface - and positively will sustain the HUGE force needed loosening a stubborn sphere. The torque handle should be at least 0.5m long - not to damage anything in your own body [}:)]
The sphere is NOT stuck by rust in the threads - as the threads are on the LHM oil side - constantly under LHM pressure. It's the O-ring that seemingly gets "vulcanised" on to the mating surfaces over the y's.
GSF used to hire out such a tool - as a customer service to sphere buyers. You may purchase such a tool from Pleiades.
Or you may DIY your own very effective (& cheap) tool :
http://citroenz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147
You need a sling tool - much the same design/idea as the chain strap oil filter removers - BUT using a belt (á la safety belt) with a thin rubber sheet insert - to positively grip on the sphere surface - and positively will sustain the HUGE force needed loosening a stubborn sphere. The torque handle should be at least 0.5m long - not to damage anything in your own body [}:)]
The sphere is NOT stuck by rust in the threads - as the threads are on the LHM oil side - constantly under LHM pressure. It's the O-ring that seemingly gets "vulcanised" on to the mating surfaces over the y's.
GSF used to hire out such a tool - as a customer service to sphere buyers. You may purchase such a tool from Pleiades.
Or you may DIY your own very effective (& cheap) tool :
http://citroenz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147
Having changed the spheres on my '96 xantia estate last weekend (first time I'd done this job) I would make the following observations;
When the book says "put the height lever to lowest position, unscrew the pressure relief valve, the system will now be de-pressurised" don't believe it. As I unscrewed the first sphere I was showered by lhm fluid - and it aint tasty I assure you - maybe wrapping the sphere and the bit it screws into in a plastic bag would help, at the very least I'd remove the first sphere slowly.
The centre (accumulator) sphere has a hydraulic pipe screwed directly into it - unscrew this before winding the sphere out of its carrier.
GSF sell a sphere removing tool for about £30 - I'd broken two cheap strap wrenches before I bought one from GSF - It's built like a brick outhouse in comparison to cheap ones and is worth the money. If you live anywhere near Halifax you are welcome to borrow it.
Regards,
Pete
When the book says "put the height lever to lowest position, unscrew the pressure relief valve, the system will now be de-pressurised" don't believe it. As I unscrewed the first sphere I was showered by lhm fluid - and it aint tasty I assure you - maybe wrapping the sphere and the bit it screws into in a plastic bag would help, at the very least I'd remove the first sphere slowly.
The centre (accumulator) sphere has a hydraulic pipe screwed directly into it - unscrew this before winding the sphere out of its carrier.
GSF sell a sphere removing tool for about £30 - I'd broken two cheap strap wrenches before I bought one from GSF - It's built like a brick outhouse in comparison to cheap ones and is worth the money. If you live anywhere near Halifax you are welcome to borrow it.
Regards,
Pete
Book (Haynes) says "with engine running, put the height lever to lowest position ..." . Your car has anti-sink, so if main accumulator sphere is not under pressure (if engine is not running), A/S valves will be closed, and you won't depressurise suspension by moving the height lever to lowest position.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
The sphere is NOT stuck by rust in the threads - as the threads are on the LHM oil side - constantly under LHM pressure. It's the O-ring that seemingly gets "vulcanised" on to the mating surfaces over the y's.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I replaced rear spheres this weekend too (receiving kind advices from this forum[:D]).
Before setting the car in upper position i decided to do it by easy way-to open spheres in the lowest position.
And it worked-sphere was opened with oil filter remover w/o any significant effort.
The tread was absolutely clean-so i agree with Anders-the reason of spheres stuck is o-ring vulcanisation or rust on it's outers side (of cause + friction caused by pressure in the system).
To make my future easy i cleaned and degreased joint between sphere and it's seat and luted it by silicone-hope it will work.[;)]
The sphere is NOT stuck by rust in the threads - as the threads are on the LHM oil side - constantly under LHM pressure. It's the O-ring that seemingly gets "vulcanised" on to the mating surfaces over the y's.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I replaced rear spheres this weekend too (receiving kind advices from this forum[:D]).
Before setting the car in upper position i decided to do it by easy way-to open spheres in the lowest position.
And it worked-sphere was opened with oil filter remover w/o any significant effort.
The tread was absolutely clean-so i agree with Anders-the reason of spheres stuck is o-ring vulcanisation or rust on it's outers side (of cause + friction caused by pressure in the system).
To make my future easy i cleaned and degreased joint between sphere and it's seat and luted it by silicone-hope it will work.[;)]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by shug</i>
or try your local bss branch who do chain wrenches would,nt be without mine now
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Just to re-inforce what others have said... BUY THE SPHERE REMOVAL TOOL.
All the spheres on my Xantia had been tightened on (which shouldn't be done) so were a pig to shift even with the hefty GSF tool.
I tried, and broke, several cheaper alternatives including a BSS chain wrench and a clarke chain wrench.
The proper tool makes this job easy.
or try your local bss branch who do chain wrenches would,nt be without mine now
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Just to re-inforce what others have said... BUY THE SPHERE REMOVAL TOOL.
All the spheres on my Xantia had been tightened on (which shouldn't be done) so were a pig to shift even with the hefty GSF tool.
I tried, and broke, several cheaper alternatives including a BSS chain wrench and a clarke chain wrench.
The proper tool makes this job easy.
I changed my front & accum spheres last month after three abortive attempts using various chain and strap wrenches[:(]. I gave in and brought the GSF tool and it made the job so easy[:D]. I had to tug like hell at the accum sphere (legs braced against the car ramps) but it gave in and there wasn't the slightest hint of the GSF tool slipping - unlike my other attempts. I'd highly recommend the tool and although I hated the thought of paying £30 for it, it made the job so easy I should have just gone out and brought it first[:I].
Despite reading the forum for some time, I was surprised at the difference the sphere changing made:
· The ride was very choppy over speed ramps, uncomfortably so if you didn't hit them straight on - now it is controlled and stable.
· The brakes were deadly, either on or off - I now have some feel and control even though they are still very good.
· I used to have to wait 20 or so seconds on low setting with the stop lamp on before the car would raise - now I can go low, high, low etc without the lamp lighting and there is no wait, it just starts to respond in the time it takes to move the lever.
· Clicking time changed from about 17 seconds to too long for me to bother timing it.
Lovely job![8D]
Despite reading the forum for some time, I was surprised at the difference the sphere changing made:
· The ride was very choppy over speed ramps, uncomfortably so if you didn't hit them straight on - now it is controlled and stable.
· The brakes were deadly, either on or off - I now have some feel and control even though they are still very good.
· I used to have to wait 20 or so seconds on low setting with the stop lamp on before the car would raise - now I can go low, high, low etc without the lamp lighting and there is no wait, it just starts to respond in the time it takes to move the lever.
· Clicking time changed from about 17 seconds to too long for me to bother timing it.
Lovely job![8D]