Possible wheel bearing.

[daviemck2006]

As part of preparing for the MOT next week I took off my 18" alloys and put on the 16's. I noticed when changing the drivers side front a little play seems in the hub. It all looks if it has been recently disrupted. There's no noise or roughness whilst turning the wheel. I was wondering if the big nut on the end of the drive shaft was not tight enough if this would cause it. Or is there anything else that could be the culprit.

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[RichardW]

Could be, I've had that before after a WB was replaced. If you've got the right size socket (35mm) just swing on the nut to see if it is tight!

[daviemck2006]

Today I got a 35 mm socket. The BOL says the drive shaft nut should be 240lbs/ft. My torque wrench only goes to 160 and it turned the nut a bit before it clicked and I would not have put much more pressure than that. Breaker bar and 3 ft pipe and it is pingfuckit tight now. Haven't jacked the car up to check it, that can wait for now cos I think my back has gone PINGFUCKIT!

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[Hell Razor5543]

There is a way you could do this, if you can ensure the socket won't pop off the nut. First, weigh yourself, and calculate your weight in pounds (IIRC, 14 pounds to 1 stone). Then divide the required torque by your pounds weight. This will give you the foot length (so if you weighed 240lb you would have the result of 1 foot (I know you don't, but I used that weight for calculating reasons)). If there are numbers past the decimal point divide them by 10, and then multiply by 12 to get the inches. Now measure from the pivot point of the breaker bar, and, using tape, mark off the result. Properly done, this will then equate to the foot pounds required. Tighten up the nut as best you can using conventional methods, then use the breaker bar at a reasonably horizontal level, and stand on it at the marked point. Your weight should do the rest. Once the bar stops moving (assuming you haven't hit the ground) you should be close enough to the required torque to be good enough.

[daviemck2006]

I'll maybe try that James. 240lbs ain't that far removed from my weight, I am a fat git and I am just about 6ft. Better just use the end of the ratchet. That will be about right:oops::lol:

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[Northern_Mike]

I'll maybe try that James. 240lbs ain't that far removed from my weight,

Mine too. I just worked out I'm 218lbs and I'm 185 cm tall.

[daviemck2006]

16&1/2 stone =231 lbs. 1.82 high. Therfore I'm a fatter git than NM. I dunno if I should be proud of that fact

[daviemck2006]

The 16's still had 2 iffy tyres on them, I had put on the best one and the spare steelie which had an unused Michelin primacy on it. Today I went to the tyre shop and changed the michelin on to an alloy, put the best tyre onto the steel spare, and bought a new tyre for the other wheel. I took the tyre fitters advice and got a Nexen tyre, which he says is as good a tyre as michelins. £74 for the standard size 215/55x16. When the car was jacked up I'm pleased to say there is no play in the wheelbearing now. It, as said is torqued up to FT. The second word is tight lol. So I have only one worry about the MOT and that is the rear suspension. Even if it passes I need to find out what is causing the squeaks, and the uneven tyre wear on the tyres which came off. I think no1 suspect is the radius arm bush on the drivers side. If it is, would it be prudent to do the other side as well? My thought would be leave it until it needs it, but seeing that I don't know that the drivers side one is gone cant really say much yet.

[RichardW]

Even if it passes I need to find out what is causing the squeaks, and the uneven tyre wear on the tyres which came off. I think no1 suspect is the radius arm bush on the drivers side.

Sounds like classic rear arm bearing symptoms to me....

[daviemck2006]

That should be picked up on the MOT then. This is a new MOT station for me, since I moved I am now over 20 miles from the one I used for years, this one is about 300metres from the house, and I used to stay across the road from the tester for a few years. I asked him what he knew about hydraulic Citroens, he said piece of cake, he cut his mechanical teeth on citroens, bx, cx, gs,xant xm etc. Hasn't actually done a radius arm bearing on a c5, but recons it will be basically the same and will be done in less than an hour. It may need a new arm as well as the bearings if the bearing is so knackered that it has also knackered a tube in the radius arm, I think. Watch this space on Tuesday.