Fitting track rod end - Xsara Picasso

[rmunns]

I need to fit a new T.R.E. to my 2004 Picasso. Other than the problem of separating the taper on the old one, is there any other difficulty? I intend measuring as carefully as possible the current geometry, so I can set the new end to be just the same.
I ask because a French guy I talked to made it all seem very complicated, needing special tools and measuring gear. As I see it, if I'm a little out then it will show after a thousand miles or so by uneven wear on the tyres. So can I go ahead with doing it how I intend?? Any tips about releasing the taper without a splitter?

[wheeler]

Nothing special about this job at all, if you are replacing the TRE anyway a couple of smacks on the top of the threaded part will normally release it no problem, I normally count the number of turns of the old one to come off to get it as close as possible.

[furriegurrie]

I usually don't like to hammer on the the tread. I loosen the nut until it's almost off and then place a jack underneath like this:



Then take the hammer and hammer on the hub around the tre. Normally after a few taps it comes out easily...

[furriegurrie]

Thanks for the edit, lot more readable! How do you place pictures in this way?

[Peter.N.]

The easiest way of checking the tracking - which you will need to do - is by means of a rod or even dowling long enough to just touch the inside edge of both tyres, if you do this at the same height front and rear of the wheel centre. I use a length of metal tube with a threaded rod with a couple of nuts on inside it, if you adjust the length so that it just touches the tyres at the front, then move it to the back it should be a slightly looser fit or very small gap, assuming the tow in should be positive. I set mine almost parallel with a little tow in. One you have set it roll the car forward and backwards a little and check it again.

I have been doing this for probably 30 years and have never had a problem with uneven tyre wear. I think its more accurate than the modern high tech gear with an inexperienced operator.

Peter

[myglaren]

Thanks for the edit, lot more readable! How do you place pictures in this way?

That was done with Photobucket but most photo hosts have options for image resizing and for using clickable thumbnails.

[citronut]

before disconnecting the swivel pin fully you need to just crack off the lock nut on the track rod end to track rod joint,
thn turn the lock nut up against the track rod before unscrewing the TRE, once the TRE is removed and as long as you did not let the lock nut move up or down its thread, you can measure from the matting face of the lock nut to the center of the back of the swivel head,

now set the new joint up to the same measurement

to release the tapper/swivel pin i just give the side of the eye on the hub a sharp bash with hammer,
no need for the jack under the swivel pin,

[rmunns]

Thanks guys for these very helpful replies. In 8 years of owning Citroens (Xantia, Xantia, Xsara Pic.) I have always found this forum to be so. Not like two other car forums I use - Saab and VW - where there is hardly ever any help. Will tackle the TRE job today.

[RichardW]

As Malc says, better to get the lock nut / TRE thread going before you break the taper, otherwise it can be a trial. I've had to apply a reasonable amount of heat to get that part going before! I use a ball joint splitter on the taper, well, it is the proper tool.... However, if you do anything that involves breaking the taper with the nut still on make sure that it is only finger loose, otherwise the joint will just turn and you will end up cutting it off anyway..... You may need to squeeze the joint with water pump pliers to get it to do up with the taper rotating, as the new nyloc nuts are pretty tight.

[rmunns]

Job done, it was worse than I expected, though. First I plus-gassed the thread on the t.r.e. then waited 1/2 hour. No joy with open-ended 19mm spanner, so got the blowtorch on it. Then I could release the nut, but still extremely tight. The nut on top of the taper was badly rusted, thread as well, so I straightaway used the angle grinder (with very thin disc) to cut out as much as I could. A cold chisel then removed the remnant of the nut. Banging the housing / top of remaining thread didn't work, so lit up the blowtorch again............success. Just then a simple job to unscrew the old t.r.e. and re-fit new one.

Please can someone tell me the correct setting for the toe?

[sparksie]

Hi
As a general rule, front wheel drives have a small toe OUT.
There are a few exceptions, but I don't think this is one.
What you're aiming to achieve is wheels absolutely parallel when driving straight, on level ground.
In my experience, with practically all cars since the late '70s, if you set them parallel with the engine running (assuming hydraulic power steering!) and the car at normal height, they'll be good enough to pass a test and show no unusual tyre wear.
This saves a lot of time finding toe in/out figures for the various models we see day in, day out, and we've never had a problem since we started doing it this way, around the turn of the century.
I did Cit's this way and she passed comfortably!
The only thing to watch out for is the rack needs to be centered, or the tracking will be wrong going around corners.
That's easy to check, though. Just count the exposed threads on the rods. They should be the same on both sides.
Nothing complicated about it, really