LHM change question

[CitroJim]

I'll get a sheet of cardboard from work in case of spillages. No-one will complain but it doesn't hurt to keep the place clean and tidy.

Quite agreed and yes Steve, it does look a lovely spot...

[CitroJim]

No, but it takes a good 5 L to do a full change Mike..

I reckon the reservoir holds getting on for four!

[Hell Razor5543]

Don't forget the LHM in the pipework, steering, etc. IIRC Haynes BoL sys 4.5l LHM fluid. For example, when you bleed the rear brakes it can take 500ml before you get the new fluid coming through.

[Hell Razor5543]

Assuming no problems (such as seized bleed nipples), bleeding the brakes can easily be completed within an hour, especially as the Xantia will take the place of an assistant!

[hawaiianblue]

Or just get one of these.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range ... 07D5B9C54D" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They suck out any fluid, no mess.

If you're on a budget then get one of these;
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255216" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No sucking needed with a jiggle syphon. Jiggle the one way valve end about a bit, then drop the other end of the hose and it syphons it all out for you.

[CitroJim]

oh .. and what are you doing posting at 03.43 in the morning, geez ) .... you reckon around the 4L then, seems a lot.

You know me Mike, I live a time-shifted day... Actually I'd been up ages when I made that post. I'm still on GMT on the board so it was an hour later than stated but I'd been up since 4...

I'll be tucked up in bed by 8 tonight though... As I say - time-shifted.. Been doing it for years now. it's just how I am...

Yep, there is a serious amount of LHM in the reservoir. You know that when you lift one out full..

Don't forget to set the suspension on low before sucking out the reservoir to ensure as much LHM as possible is residing there...

[mds141]

I use a turkey baster to remove the LHM from the tank. Takes a while, but I find it a lot easier.

[Xaccers]

I just remove the airbox, unscrew the nuts, pop the filter unit out protecting it with a topless 2ltr coke bottle, then use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop the reservoir out of its grommet and lift it out without spilling a drop.

[CitroJim]

I use a turkey baster to remove the LHM from the tank. Takes a while, but I find it a lot easier.

Mark, you must have the patience of a saint

Xac, that's an excellent method and one I've used on many occasions...

It's a good idea to invest in the pukka pipe clip tool so the clips can be easily released and reused.

[Miguel]

I just remove the airbox, unscrew the nuts, pop the filter unit out protecting it with a topless 2ltr coke bottle, then use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop the reservoir out of its grommet and lift it out without spilling a drop.

Is the same way I do when I had Xantia to change fluid on. Is easy.

[mds141]

Shortly after I switched to Hydraurincage, the rear of the XM was sinking within 15 minutes. After several long sessions of Citrobics it returned to its usual behaviours. So I presumed air was introduced into the system somehow. A good long session of Citrobics won't do any harm.

[Mandrake]

Well chaps .... i noticed tonight that the car is sinking at the rear almost immediately after switching off. So does that mean that my rough ride could be down to a duff sphere, possibly rear antisink, and not the hydraflush all along?

Define "sinking" - do you mean it slowly goes right down to the bump stops after the engine is stopped ? Or is there a sudden drop in height (like a jolt) but then it stabilises at a partial height ?

Either way it won't be spheres though. A rapid loss of height with the engine not running is likely to be an internally leaky strut ram...

[Mandrake]

I have to walk around the rear of the car to lock the NSF door which refuses to lock on the plip. I watch it going down ... not a sudden drop, as i pass around the back of the car. Just started recently. Would normally sit down ever so slightly on engine switch off, now i 'see' it happening. Ruptured sphere maybe?

It does sound like one of the rear rams has a leak. To be sure you'd need to check the flow through the two plastic return pipes attached to each strut gater - there should be none, but you will probably find enough to fill a jar in a few minutes. Or it could be the brake doseur valve leaking internally.

Another test you could try is just after you turn the engine off quickly open the pressure regulator bleed screw by half a turn - on a properly working system this will instantly close both the anti-sink valves, isolating the height correctors and brake doseur valve from the suspension. If this prevents it from going down you do NOT have a leaking strut ram and it could have a leaky brake valve, if it still goes down you probably have a leaky rear strut ram.

[xantos]

@Mandrake: Brilliant! Where did you learn all these tricks? They don't call you the God of Hydraulics by mistake

I have a similar problem, but I renewed my brake doseur valve so struts it is then. Will do the test anyway... My car sinks and there is also noise (prrrrrrrrrrrrr) like fluid is being pushed through a small gap.

Can the suspension cylinders be renewed? I searched throughout the internet but didn't find any useful information... Heard though it can be renewed, but not sure if DIY.