ZX Driveshaft

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 30 Nov 2003, 20:32

hi
getting a loud ticking noise from the front left wheel on right hand turns with my ZX. Checked the right hand side driveshaft, there is play in it and the rubber gaiter has come loose. Guess that means a new driveshaft.... I am not and experienced mechanic, is this a job that is relatively simple to do yourself or better to send it to the garage? If DIY any tips on how to go about it (looking in the Haynes manual it seems relatively simple but then it always does...) do I only need to get another driveshaft or are there other bits to replace? Any advice welcome...

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 01 Dec 2003, 00:32

If the noise is from the left hand wheel why are you thinking of changing the right hand drive shaft, or am I not reading your post correctly.
In which direction is the play in the shaft, radial or axial, if axial this is probably just end float in the shaft where its splined to the joint and not play in the actual CV joint its self.
Some radial play may be expected when the miles have been put on, its not really a problem unless its getting noisey or causing vibrations, if the right hand shaft is not making any noise just pack it with grease and fit a new boot.
What is your most involved mechanical repair undertaking to date and what tools have you.
Dave

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 01 Dec 2003, 01:59

hi
thanks for your reply. The noise is coming from the left and the play is in the left hand side drive shaft, aplogies typing error....With regards to the play I can move the shaft back and forth on the line between the wheel and the gearbox. Mechanical experience quite limited, I service the car myself (ie oil/coolant changes etc) not done major repairs. I have a failry extensive automotive socket set incl a torque wrench.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 01 Dec 2003, 03:45

Fortunatly the left hand shaft is the easiest one to do, your main obstacle is the drive shaft nut, these are Probably the tightest nut on the car at well over 200 lbf ft, and this is very likely well outside the range of your torque wrench.
You will need a high quality 35mm socket IIRC (impact quality is best for this) and if 1/2 drive a very good quality bar to drive it, axle stands and the use of a trolley jack is recomemded.
Be warned that this nut is easily capable of seeing off any socketry that is not of a high standard.
Do you feel like having a go.
Dave

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 02 Dec 2003, 04:46

hi
thanks for reply. Yes I do feel like having a go, have you got any further tips/info?

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 03 Dec 2003, 03:14

Loosen the hub nut while the car is still on the ground then jack up and support on stands, drain the gearbox oil via the plug in the bottom of the diff housing.
Remove wheel and hub nut, disconect the bottom ball joint, there are two ways of doing this, you can either take out the pinch bolt in the hub carrier and leave the ball joint attached to the suspension arm, or you can remove the three bolts at the end of the arm and leave the ball joint attached to the hub carrier, once the arm is free pull the suspension leg outwards and off the drive shaft.
Pull the shaft from the diff.
Don't let the car stand on its wheels with the shaft removed, damage can be caused to the wheel bearing by doing so.
Apply the specified torque to the bolts and hub nut on refitting, don't over tighten the diff drain plug as the casting has been known to break at the threads in such cases, lubricate the oil seal boss on the new drive shaft before inserting in the diff, replace garbox oil (approx 2L).
Dave

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 04 Dec 2003, 01:16

Hi there
thanks for your advice. Is there supposed to be any play in the shaft at all? Just checked the right hand side and there is a little play in it, nothing like the left side however and no noise coming from there so guess it is ok. Well, got the replacement driveshaft now so will have a go this or maybe next weekend. Will let you now how I got on.
cheers

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 04 Dec 2003, 05:08

Any mechanical system with moving components will develop play as it wears, so yes there will be play at some stage but what the tollerance is I don't know, but it doesn't really matter much unless any such play is causing a problem like vibration or noise.
The shaft will move a bit in certain directions and is normal, this being along the length of it (axial) radial and rotational play in the joint is not normaly thought of as normal but as the years pile on and the mileage grows, some play is acceptable and inevitable.
This type of cv joint has six ball bearings contained in a cage that transmit the drive from the inner part of the joint splined to the shaft, to the outer part which also forms stub axle, because the car spends most of its life with its wheels in the near straight ahead position, the balls in the joint wear into those two parts most at this point.
When the wheels are turned for steering, the balls track accross the joint at half the angle the joint is at, that is to say that if the wheel is at 30 degrees to the shaft, the balls will track accross the joint at 15 degrees, when they encounter the wear grooves as they travel from one side to the other they are forced into them under the high loadings, resulting in a clicking sound or in severe cases even knocking.
Dave

wrinklet1 · Post by **wrinklet1** » 04 Dec 2003, 14:03

Kasper, Before you start stripping down your driveshaft and so on, Question, Have you tried driving the car <u></u>Without<u></u> any wheel trims? If not try it first, you may find the noise may go. I had a similar noise on my BX, removed the wheel trims and Hey Presto, the noise went.
The 'play' you have on your drive shaft may be because the 'circlip'ring on your drive shaft that goes into your cv joint may be worn or may not be there at all. This clip holds the cv joint onto the main driveshaft and may not have been replaced when a new cv gaitor had been replaced.
Regards
Paul.

kaspar · Post by **kaspar** » 07 Dec 2003, 00:23

Hi there
well it is all done now, thanks for all your advice! One more question: according to the Haynes manual you are supposed to use new nuts on the three bolts keeping the bottom ball joint in place. Is this essential or can I re-use the old Ones (Have put the old ones on for now if required will replace them at a later stage)
thanks
Kaspar

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 07 Dec 2003, 01:21

Usually these nuts are self locking - that's why it's allways recommanded to replace them - to ensure they still lock after a removal.
It's a safety issue really - as there are no other means holding the nut if it turns loose by vibrations.
Optionally you may use locking spring washers.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 07 Dec 2003, 17:33

Not strictly necessary to use new nuts, if the nut will screw all the way on just by finger then new ones should be used, if you had to spanner them all the way on and the threads are not damaged in any way, they will be fine.
I think Haynes say these things to cover themselves just incase people can't use their own common sense to good effect, no offence intended[:I]
Dave