What to salvage? Xantia Estate 2.1 VSX.

[Old-Guy]

Prize the vents out guy theres two t10 torx in there..

remove the steering colum shrouds and the plastic trim to the right of the shrouds of the colum remove all t20 torx screws.. the trim infront of the clocks above the shrouds needs to come away first before the vents do..

some screws hidden under the wood area I think

wood was added to vsx only in late 1997 early 1998 so quite scarse on vsx models...

all exclusives had it..

Cheers! Had another look this arvo, decided it would be simpler to ask if anyone knew how. Just read this post, so I've got the answer to the question I have even had a chance to ask. FCF is amazing!

[citroenxm]

Wings would or should be saved aswell, they are the "Bulged" wings on the front as shes a 2.1

Only fitted to 2.1s V6's and Activas in the S1 range..

ALL S2 cars got the Bulged wings.

[Old-Guy]

I've just had a look at service.citroen and it looks as though the easiestway might be to remove the whole valve block and then remove the electro-valve on the bench. However, the rear block is pretty corroded - I broke my chain wrench trying to remove the auxiliary sphere with an 18" bar - so getting its mounting bolts out might be problematic.

[VertVega]

Here are some more "easy to remove" parts:
--- front/engine room ---
- headlights
- radiator fan motor(s)
- windshield wiper motor with mechanism
--- in car ---
- heater blower motor
- fuel pump in tank (reachable from under rear passenger seat)
- tailgate lock solenoid
- tailgate wiper motor

[Trainman]

I've been having a little think, I will have the 'wood' and clocks as well, you never know..... and given they are becoming rarer, it's worth sticking them in the garage.

[CitroJim]

I've just had a look at service.citroen and it looks as though the easiestway might be to remove the whole valve block and then remove the electro-valve on the bench. However, the rear block is pretty corroded -

The rears do corrode badly Guy and often take the valve with it due to dissimilar metal corrosion.

To remove they often come out by applying a good socket to the top 16mm hex just below the leakage return spigot but if the valve starts to come apart at this juncture it's then necessary to carry on disassembling it (noting the assembly of springs, needle and slug) and then using a thin (often needs to be ground thin enough) 24mm deep socket to remove the body.

The front one is often far, far easier as it's spent it's life protected with LHM and engine bay oil...

[Old-Guy]

Thanks Jim. In that case I will first rescue the front one and only struggle with the rear if time allows.

[Peter.N.]

The 2.1 engines are becoming as rare as hens teeth, unfortunately they are not worth a lot at the moment.

Peter

[citroenxm]

The 2.1 engines are becoming as rare as hens teeth, unfortunately they are not worth a lot at the moment.

Peter

dont think they ever will be worth anything due to the useless Epic semi electronic fuel system setup, and the weight and size compared to the HDi 8v ...

Thinking about it even early 8v HDi engines are worthless and becoming a little harder to find... THOUGH both 90 and 110 tune basic engines are identical! Its only a monifold and turbo difference.

Im ok Ive got 4 spare 2.1 engines complete, plus another GOOD head plus a spares head.. So im ok there.

I have slighty less of HDi stuff at the moment. Though theres a 90 engine in one shed and a 110 engine in a car, and a scrap 110 engine thats virtually stripped now.

[Old-Guy]

I know Peter, that's why I feel rather guilty. Despite the 195,000 miles, the body is rotting around the engine and gearbox which are both in good nick. I even considered a transplant into the Green Lady - but on reflection it was likely to become far too complex - mechanically, electrically and bureaucratically.

I thought I'd miss the extra power and torque, but the green lady is so much more refined - fully sorted suspension and quieter (even on noisier tyres) - and I don't drive like a looney or tow anything bigger than a 5' x 3' trailer.

I know what Paul means about the EPIC system - the VSX had fits of sulking:- put your foot down and not much would happen, then she would suddenly decide to wake up - after a few seconds or minutes. I've had to floor the throttle to maintain speed up-hill and then after several seconds it took off like a scalded cat! I never got around to doing anything about it or the Hydractive suspension.

[Peter.N.]

I have never had an EPIC engine, at least not in a car, all mine have been Bosch mechanical pumps and they have been brilliant, 15 years and probably 300.000+ miles and I have never had a pump fail, in fact the only major failure I have had was a head gasket.

They are smoother and more economical than the 1.9 and smoother than the Hdi - brilliant engine.

Peter

[citroenxm]

They are smoother and more economical than the 1.9 and smoother than the Hdi - brilliant engine.

Peter

I think thats an UNFAIR comparison Peter. the 2.1 is an IDI engine, they are Nautrally a smoother burning engine BY DESIGN and hence the smoothness ... a DI engine will be more coarse, so pitting a HDI against a XUD 12 is not 100% fair, HOWEVER it will always be compared as the HDi replaced the 2.1 FIRST before the 1.9 XUD.

For a DI engine the 8v DW10 is STILL one of the quietest engines Ive heard. They are even far quieter then the 2.0 16v HDi later engine!!

[Peter.N.]

I'm not decrying the Hdi engine Paul, in fact as you know I am running two of them and they seem to be even more reliable than the 2.1 but the fact remains that below about 1600 rpm they don't have the silky smoothness of the 2.1 so you can't drive them as lazily, its just that after 15 years of running 2.1 XMs the low speed roughness of the Hdi is noticeable which means I have to use more revs. I would stick with the Hdi for its economy alone. If I had never driven a 2.1 I probably wouldn't mention this.

Peter

[Old-Guy]

Here are some more "easy to remove" parts:
--- front/engine room ---
- headlights
- radiator fan motor(s)
- windshield wiper motor with mechanism
--- in car ---
- heater blower motor
- fuel pump in tank (reachable from under rear passenger seat)
- tailgate lock solenoid
- tailgate wiper motor

All on my list. Before anyone asks for any tailgate components, the whole tailgate is earmarked as a replacement for the Green Lady as the rubber round her rear glass has perished to the extent that bits have come off and one 'line' of the HRW (right in the middle) has gone. The grand plan is to strip the blue tailgate completely apart from the glass, have it professionally resprayed in Vert Vega, and then rebuild with the wiper motor from the GL and the pick of lights and trim. That reminds me, must save flexible wiring...