Clutch pedal sticky....

[jotto]

Hi all,
Just got back from a short drive and noticed the clutch pedal felt a bit strange. The bite point is quite high and as you release the pedal and take your foot off, the pedal seems to stick towards the end of travel and then jumps the last cm or so.
Would I be right in thinking the clutch is possibly on its way out or could it be something as simple as the cable perhaps fraying and getting caught up? If the storms stop lashing us down here in the SW will try and have a look tomorrow after work but any pointers appreciated.

Cheers.
2.0HDi 53 plate.

[Peter.N.]

I would suspect that the auto adjuster is faulty but I expect someone who knows will be along shortly.

Peter

[jotto]

I would suspect that the auto adjuster is faulty but I expect someone who knows will be along shortly.

Peter

Makes me feel better, now for the rain to stop. Where is the adjuster located? TIA.

[Peter.N.]

If its the same as the XM its in the upper part of the cable. They are not usually repairable so what I have done in the past is taken up the slack at the gearbox end by cutting a slot in the side of a suitably sized nut and slipping it over the inner cable.

Peter

[RichardW]

Picasso HDi uses a hydrualic clutch.....

[Peter.N.]

That knocks that on the head then.

[sparksie]

Hi
I have no experience of hydraulic clutches on French cars, but...
My Volvo 740 has a hydraulic clutch (well, it had until I put the diesel engine and auto'box in it ).
Sticky spots in the pedal turned out to be a dodgy seal, picking up on the edge of the port in the cylinder. Master cylinder in my case, though other Volvo owners report it happens with slave cylinders too.
Any dark sediment at all in the reservoir is a bad sign.
I repaired mine with a set of seals, with no need to do anything to the bore itself, though that won't always be the case.
If left, the ultimate failure could be any of the following;-
Cylinder seizes, with clutch engaged, disengaged, or half and half
or
Fluid leak develops, requiring ever more frequent top ups and bleeding
or
Cylinder "creeps while under pressure, with clutch slowly re-engaging despite pedal being held fully down
or
Cylinder seal "pops", similar to cable breaking and pedal goes to floor without disengaging clutch. Initially, this may be intermittent and a second pump may work.
All of the above apply to conventional hydraulic clutches. Citroen's versions may well be different
Japanese hydraulic clutches tend to work as intended right up to the day they don't, and replacement complete cylinders are cheap enough to just replace them when they fail.
Pretty sure Citroen's versions won't be like that!
No doubt someone who knows will be along shortly

[flying clutchman]

It very much depends which hdi you have, a 90 0r a 110. There might even be a 135. If it's the 90 the hydraulics are completely conventional, and cheap. If you have the more powerful variant then you have a pull-type clutch which is very different. The fact that the biting point is high suggests that the fault is NOT hydraulic and may be the clutch itself. One of those wait and see jobs I think!

[SaabC5]

My clutch biting point was right at the top of my 2.2HDi with a hydraulic clutch when it needed changing. New clutch/flywheel and it bites right near the bottom. Clutch slave cylinder could be knackered on yours, its under the airbox area and about £25 plus labour to replace, its cheap nasty plastic so doesn't last as long as the good old days.

[flying clutchman]

If the slave cylinder was faulty you'd expect the pedal to be at the bottom, so I doubt that's the problem

[zabadak]

Hi. Had the same on my C5 and one day the pedal went to the floor and stayed there .
The clutch was worn out and the slave had gone past where it should go.If this happens you will need a new slave cylinder as well or it may drop again at some time. Slave cylinders are cheap from Euro Car Parts.
May need flywheel if dual mass.
Best of luck anyway.